Monday, September 12, 2011

Tying into the Rope: Part I: Gear List

Gear Overview – What You’ll Need

Rope – For top roping it is generally recommended that the climber use a 10+mm diameter dynamic climbing rope. 10+mm rope is generally heavy, but will last longer than a thinner rope and provide greater safety than thinner ropes especially if the top rope should happen to run over sharp rock (despite the climber using great caution to prevent this from happening!) or sees repeated pressure on individual areas of the rope. A dynamic climbing rope is a rope that stretches somewhat when weighted allowing the rope to absorb force during a fall. A climber should never use a static rope other than for rappelling or hauling.


Harnesses
– There are many different harnesses commercially available today. It suffices to say that a well padded harness specifically manufactured for climbing is your best bet. There are also kids’ harnesses available which include the full body type.

Belay Devices – There are several types of belay devices. The author recommends that top rope climbers begin by using an ATC. An ATC is a tubular belay device that creates friction which slows the rope down. It is the most versatile device and can be used for any type of climbing and rappelling.

Carabiners – Carabiners come in many different shapes and sizes. The most important thing to remember is that the carabiner must be approved for climbing uses (not those of the key chain variety!) and that carabiners with locking gates, while heavier and more expensive, are always superior in strength to those without screw gates.

Webbing – Used to rig anchors, attach climbers to anchors, as gear slings, and for a number of other things. Webbing is made from either nylon or Spectra. Spectra is stronger and more resistant to abrasion or cutting, but has a lower melting temperature than nylon. Both are damaged by ultraviolet radiation from the sun and should be replaced once visible wear, discoloration, or damage become visible. Otherwise it is wise to replace webbing after a few years of use. Nylon webbing is typically 1” while Spectra comes only in 9/16” size. Webbing that is permanently sewn into a loop is available and is somewhat safer than straight webbing that requires the climber to tie their own knots. The drawback of pre-sewn loops however is that adjusting for size can become more difficult. Webbing that is not pre-sewn can be tied into a loop with a ring bend or water knot. Make sure that the webbing you use is manufactured with rock climbing in mind.

Cordelette
– An alternative to webbing used to build anchors. Cordelette has the advantage of quick and simple static equalization, and is also invaluable in self rescue situations as it is ideal for tying Prusik knots. Cordelette commonly comes in 7 mm or 5.5 mm high-strength cord such as Spectra. While climbers typically carry 16-21’ sections of cordelette, I find 30 feet provides me with more options in building anchors. While this extra weight can be a concern on longer climbs, in top roping the weight of the gear is essentially irrelevant. Go with the longer cord, and leave yourself with more options for building more redundant anchors.

Discloures & Disclaimers:
The author is not a certified climbing guide or instructor and the above post represents only what the author believes to be clear and accurate information. There is no warranty that this information is accurate or up to date, and the author and BayAreaClimbing.com assume no liability whatsoever in the event that climbers misinterpret or otherwise come to harm after reading the above information. Climbing is inherently dangerous. Climb at your own risk.

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