Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park is a virtual climber's paradise. 1,235 square miles in size, Joshua Tree, declared a National Park in 1994 as part of the California Desert Protection Act, is home to (by some estimates) greater than 5,000 established rock climbs.
The rock, a highly textured, large grained granite called monzonite, leaves fingers painfully raw, but provides some of the most excellent friction and feel of any rock I've ever climbed.
Driving into the Park's west entrance from the town of Joshua Tree off Twenty Nine Palms Highway, visitors are immediately confronted by the overwhelming beauty of the Mojave Desert that makes up the parks western half. The Mojave Desert is a 'high desert' or one that is at an elevation of greater than 3,000 ft. Here the desert is not only replete with the Park's namesake Joshua Tree's which rise as high as 15 meters, but also with thousands upon thousands of boulders and smallish rectangular formations littered with cracks strewn in heaps across the landscape. If you are visiting the park to climb, this should elicit in you a near panic level exuberance. If not, you should probably just turn back and attempt to hock your shoes for pocket change.
A few side notes on flora and fauna
Joshua Trees, beautiful and otherworldly, are actually not trees at all but giant Yucca plants. Yucca brevifolia have no growth rings and are therefore difficult to date, but it is estimated that they live for hundreds of years. The plant was given its name by Mormon settlers who crossed the Mojave Desert in the mid-19th century who saw in the tree the Biblical image of Joshua reaching with his hands in prayer towards the sky.
The high desert has more precipitation than the low Colorado Desert in the park's eastern half and offers visitors views abundant wildflowers in the spring as well as a bevy of various types of cactus and shrub.
Wildlife is also abundant in Joshua Tree, the park home to six species of snakes (be careful when scrambling on and over rock formations and keep an eye on the next step!), coyotes, tortoise, Desert Bighorn Sheep, tarantulas, and over 250 species of birds (including the Greater Roadrunner!)
Geology
The rock formations in Joshua Tree formed 100 million years ago as a result of magma cooling beneath the surface. Over time, groundwater has eroded away at the desert leaving exposed thousands of formations of similar height covered in cracks.
Where to Stay
Visiting climbers are drawn to the famed Hidden Valley Campground which is the first you will reach when entering the park's West entrance. Winter home to the legendary California climbers known as the Stonemasters, Hidden Valley Campground sits among and within walking distance of many of Joshua Tree's classics.
Hidden Valley Campground has 39 walk-in campsites that allow for up to 2 vehicles, 3 tents, and 6 people. There is a annual 30 day limit on camping in Joshua Tree, and a 14 day limit between the popular October - May time frame. It is often very difficult to get a spot if you arrive on a weekend in any other season but the usually too-hot-to-climb summer. For better luck, take a day off work and head down on Thursday instead. There is no running water, but several usually clean pit toilets. Each site has a picnic table, fire pit, and typically a nice, level area on which to pitch tents. If Hidden Valley Campground is full, try asking people already camping if you can share their spot. This is a not uncommon practice, and is actually a great way to meet new climbing partners. Just make sure to offer to buy a few beers for your hosts!
If you are the type of climber that prefers to stay in a hotel with running water, etc, you might check out the Joshua Tree Desert Inn in the town of Joshua Tree. This is the famous hotel where musician Gram Parsons (Flying Burrito Brothers, The Byrds, etc) died of an overdose in room #8. The room contains a stereo with a stack of Gram Parsons albums next to it, and a shrine out the door of the room where travelers and fans of the country/blues/folk/rock (according to a wikipedia article about the artist, this is called, "Cosmic American Music") musician can leave offerings. On my one stay there, several college aged girls twisted my arm into participating in a failed seance in the room where Gram passed. It was a tad unusual, but that's all part of the Joshua Tree experience!
Interestingly enough, Gram's body disappeared from LAX, when road manager Phil Kaufman and a friend stole the body in a borrowed hearse, and drove the remains to Cap Rock in Joshua Tree (near Hidden Valley Campground) and cremated Gram's body according to the artist's wishes. As there is no law against stealing a dead body given that it has no intrinsic value (according to law), the body snatchers were given a small fine and released.
The hotel is currently managed by a great dreadlocked man named Marsu who makes homemade Chai tea for all his guests. If you'd like to see the room and shrine but aren't staying at the hotel, and Marsu still works there, its almost a given that he'd love to give you the tour. Stop on in and ask nicely to see the memorial and he'll probably make you some tea while you wander the grounds.
Food and Drink
In the town of Joshua Tree there is a giant Walmart where one can fill up on food, wood, and beverages cheaply. There is also a Pizza Place just outside of the Park called Sam's Pizza, where they serve not only serve Pizza, but also Indian food. They combine these two talents and make an 'interesting' curry sauce pizza that many climbers claim to crave at the end of a long day. I myself wasn't overly impressed by the curry pizza, but the regular pizza and other items are delicious. The same owners of Sam's Pizza also run a convenience store next door that sells firewood, alcohol, and snack foods.
Climbing Gear
Getting into off widths and need a few big bros? Run out of chalk or need tape for your shredded hands and fingers? Check out Nomad Ventures on the corner of Park Blvd and Hwy 62.
Showers
Showers can be found at Coyote Corner across the street from Nomad Ventures. Tokens for the shower are $4 and are good for 7.5 minutes of water.
Climbing Guides
Climbing guides are available through Joshua Tree Guides. They offer many different rates and packages. For more information, visit their website at http://joshuatreeguides.com/.
Directions from the Bay Area: Take 580 E to CA 120 E, then merge onto CA-99 S. Take 99 S to CA-58 E/Blue Star Memorial Hwy to I-15 N toward Las Vegas briefly before turning onto CA-247 S/Barstow Rd. Turn left onto CA-62 E/Twentynine Palms Hwy to Park Blvd. The drive takes approximately 9 hours, but I guarantee its worth it!!!
Favorite Routes
Hemingway Buttress
Feltoneon Physics (5.8)
This 100 foot tall trad line lies just off Park Boulevard approx 2 miles from Hidden Valley Campground. Park at the large pullout for Hemingway Buttress and hike towards the center of the wall. This climb starts approximately 40 feet to the right of the classic hand/fist crack, White Lightning (5.7). Featuring a wide crack/OW start in a right facing corner (that can be somewhat avoided by moving out onto the face of the buttress), the climb then ascends through excellent hand and finger cracks to a traverse below the summit, and a mantel up between two boulders. For a 100 foot line, this climb felt very adventurous given the heterogeneous nature of its features, its airy traverse (Note: leaders remember to protect your seconds by placing gear at the start and finish of the traverse!), and its mantel finish. Rappel off White Lightning with two ropes, or with a single cord approx 25 feet left of the climb (but note you will end up 7-10 feet off the ground and will need to downclimb easy face holds to complete the descent. I highly recommend this route!
Echo Rocks Area
Eff Eight (5.8)
This 40' Trad line feels like quite the sandbag and is definitely a difficult lead given its unsual placement opportunities. The climb ascends a 40 foot hand crack that curves left off the desert floor. Located in the Echo Rocks Area, this climb receives near perfect sunlight during the day, has a two bolt summit anchor, and features a nice and easy walk-off. If planning to TR this climb, bring long slings to reach from the bolts out over the lip of the climb. While challenging and a bit of a physical struggle rather than an opportunity to practice smooth crack climbing skills, its position, its easy approach, and the bolts making for an ideal top rope for those unused to trad anchors, this climb warrants inclusion in the Bay Area Climbers' To Do List. Park in the Echo Cove Parking lot and hike towards the large Echo Rock. When you near the West End of Echo Rock, turn right and head out into the open expanse on a well worn trail. Eff Eight will be the prominent left slanting crack on a large boulder directly in front of you. To descend, use the easy walk off on climber's left.
Double Dip (5.6)
Double Dip seen on left side with the flake. Stitcher Quits is the prominent black streak on the right. This is Echo Rock, West Face, as seen from the parking lot approach.
Located on Echo Rock's North Face, this 110' sport climb ascends the right side of flake before cruising up the lower angled dome to a nice flat bench finish high off the desert floor. The climb is runout and the flake at its start can be protected with a single cam (#3 or #4) near its top. Ascend the outside of the flake (lieback) for the most straightforward experience. From there one move puts you to the second bolt (don't blow this clip (or fail to put in a cam behind the flake) or you will deck!) After the second bolt, the climbing is easy face climbing and offers quite a few positive holds to say its a slab. Its pure fun, although runout with only 5 bolts in 100' plus. A great alternative to the most popular (but usually crowded) Stitcher Quits (5.7) that ascends the prominent black dike to the right of Double Dip. There is a two bolt anchor. Descend the slabs to climber's left. Pretty classic climb for the grade and I highly recommend it!
Hidden Valley Campground
Hands Off (5.8)
Located inside Hidden Valley Campground, Hands Off (5.8), is a somewhat difficult 5.8 that combines stemming, jamming, and some thrashing, to ascend this varied and fun route. Brings #4s for the anchor and smaller gear for the climb itself. To descend, walk off to climber's left down the backside on a somewhat steep slab. Curve back towards hidden Valley and downclimb to the base of the route. The downclimb is not too bad as far as Joshua Tree is concerned. This is a John Long FA and a very popular climb.
Beginner's Three (5.3)
Located on the backside of Intersection Rock, this low angle hand crack ascends a prominent buttress for 50'. Protection opportunities are available throughout, making this a good beginner's trad lead. It does however finish on a low angle slab that appears to have a crack in it when viewed from the ground, only to turn out to be a shallow streak that offers no protection. The angle is quite low here, but this should be known before leaving the ground to avoid the surprise a beginner would feel to suddenly be confronted with a lack of pro. The climb finishes on the shoulder of Intersection Rock below Overhang Bypass. Build an anchor in the horizontal crack that is positioned approx 10 feet from the lip of the climb. Downclimb off to climber's left (not too bad.)
Double Cross (5.8)
An absolute Joshua Tree classic. This 5.7+-5.8 route offers some of the best hand jamming I've ever seen. It is unfortunately the site of quite a few accidents probably owing to its 25' of essentially unprotected (but easy) face climbing before the start of the crack and due to its fame as a classic Joshua Tree solo. After the face moves, its 70' of beautiful and rythmic crack climbing. Rap anchors are to climber's right. Takes a standard rack with cams up to 3" with doubles (or triples) of #1s and #2s.
Quail Springs
Trashcan Rock, located just off Park Boulevard approximately 3 miles from the Park's Western entrance, this rock sees a lot of traffic from both guide groups and tourists given that it features a large parking area, picnic tables, and 5 second approaches. While not a remote wilderness setting, it does offer a lot of climbing in a short period of time given the availability of easy-to-moderate trad routes and moderate sport climbs.
1. The Trough (5.0) - A great, but short (20') beginner's trad line
2. Karpwitz (5.6) - A nice fun, trad line with varied movements
3. B-3 (5.3) - Trad, anchor in horizontal crack above.
4. Profundity (5.10c) - Sport. Thoughtful, fun moves on an inobvious line.
5. B-2 (5.3) - Trad. The least enjoyable of the 5.3 and below trad lines on the face.
6. Tiptoe (5.7+) - Sport. A great line that moves up a feldspar dike. First bolt is way off the ground though and should be (dare I say it!) stick clipped if possible.
7. B-1 (5.1) - Trad. Fun face moves on patina flakes compliment a few nice hand jams.
Lost Horse Area
Atlantis Wall
To reach the Atlantis Wall, turn off Park Boulevard onto the dirt road through the Lost Horse Area. Park at the last dirt pullout before the 'Service Only Road' sign. Hike in on a well worn trail along rock walls until you can turn left up and into a Canyon. There on your left will be the very popular and fun Atlantis Wall.
On the Atlantis Wall are a number of great beginner trad climbs that can also be toproped by walking up the easy gully on the backside (Class 2?). Trad anchors and long slings are necessary to rig ropes, but a number of large boulders atop the formation offer strong and easy to use anchor points.
In the photo above, left-to-right, are:
Solar Technology (5.6), Men with Cow's Heads (5.5), Wet Pigeon (5.8), and Taurus
(5.7). We found everyone of these climbs to be fantastic. They make for great beginner's leads given the shorter nature of the wall (50') and due to the plentiful protection opportunities throughout each climb.
Please let us know what you think of these routes and let us know if you have favorites you'd like us to include! Many thanks, Bay Area Climbing Staff!
Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park is perhaps the mecca of worldwide rock climbing. Featuring towering granite walls, beautiful Sierra scenery, and amazingly short approaches, Yosemite is both the birthplace of modern rock climbing, and also home to some of the world's most famous routes.
Located just four hours east of San Francisco, Yosemite National Park sees almost 4 million visitors a year. While many rightly complain that it turns the several square mile Valley floor into an unholy zoo, it takes but a small bit of either hiking or climbing to leave the crowds far below and enter into the spiritual sanctum that is one of the world's most beautiful natural settings.
Directions: From San Francisco, take 580-E to 120-E all the way to the Valley Floor. The drive itself is approximately four hours long, but requires motorists to suffer on congested highways for only the first hour and a half. After that, the roads are of the one and two-lane variety, and actually make for a nice, relaxing drive amongst ever-improving scenery as you approach the Valley.
Where to Stay: There are many options for lodging in Yosemite, but navigating through the choices can be something of a pain. Below is a breakdown of the various lodges and campgrounds and approximate prices for each (although the pricing is variable depending on the season and the demand.)
First and foremost is Camp 4, the 'climbers' campground,' located just west of Yosemite Falls. Camp 4 is recognized as one of the world's three most famous base camps, with Chamonix and Everest Base Camp being the other two most notable operations centers when it comes to famous climbing achievements.
The campground itself is rather plain with open campsites and picnic tables spread out over a few hundred yards. Its charm comes mainly from its location in the Valley, as well as its astounding history. In 1997, the Park Service planned to develop an employee housing site over historic Camp 4 after severe flooding destroyed much of the housing, but were stopped when legendary climber Tom Frost led an effort to secure Camp 4 on the National Register of Historic Places for, "its significant association with the growth and development of rock climbing in the Yosemite Valley during the 'golden years' of pioneer mountaineering." During the '60s, '70s, and '80s, many of the country's (if not world's) best climbers made Camp 4 their semi-permanent home. The lax approach to enforcing camping limits and the Valley 'dirtbags' willingness to live for months at a time in the dust and dirt of Camp 4 was perhaps one of the critical factors in allowing climbers to push the standards higher and higher as a constant commitment to climbing and the climbing lifestyle allowed these denizens of the Valley to squeeze out every last drop of talent.
Camp 4 is a walk-in campground and thus reservations are not available. To secure a site, one must arrive early (pre-8 am) and wait in line at the ranger station located just inside the camp. Depending on availability, climbers can stay here for $5/night per person (a total of 6 people allowed in each campsite) for up to 14 days per year. The campground is open year round, has community bathrooms, and no showers. If a shower is desired, one can shower at Curry Village for a cost of $2.
Lastly, despite its lack of accoutrements, Camp 4 offers dozens of classic bouldering problems, including the famed Ron Kauk FA, Midnight Lightening, on the Columbia Boulder located in the middle of the campground. While officially V8, it is regarded as much harder than that now given the amount of polish the holds have undergone after a few decades of visiting climbers testing themselves on this, the world's most famous boulder problem.
Midnight LightningCurry Village: Curry Village is one of my favorite places to stay in the Valley. Open all year long, it features canvas covered tent cabins offering guests several options including heated or non-heated tents, 'Signature' cabins that have wooden walls or the standard canvas covered tent type cabins, and also a number of all wood cabins that include their own private bathrooms, but typically must be reserved months and months in advance. Each tent cabin includes several cots equipped with pillows, sheets, and wool blankets. Also provided are towels for the community showers. Curry Village offers several dining options for guests including the ever-popular pizza deck, a tacqueria in the warmer months, an indoor bar and grill, a buffet, and a coffee shop for bagels and various baked goods. There is also a small grocery store where visitors can pick up snacks, drinks (including beer, wine, and liquor), and other sundry items.
Reservations for Curry Village can be made at the Yosemite National Park website: www.yosemitepark.com/plan-your-visit.aspx.
Prices range from $40 for the unheated tent cabins in winter, up to $100(ish) dollars in the busy summer months.
1921 Promotional PosterHousekeeping Camp: This area is located along the Merced River in the center of Yosemite and while more rustic than even Curry Village, it offers a great deal of charm given its river bank setting, its large group feel, and due to the fact that guests here are allowed to have campfires (which are only allowed at a few places in the Valley.) The 'rooms' are really three-walled structures with cots much like those found in Curry Village. Each unit has a private picnic table and fire pit near the entrance to the unit, with small stick fences delineating the space. Guests are directed to drive up to, and park directly in front of, their units allowing for easy unloading for the scores of families and other large groups that bring cooking equipment, coolers, rafts, and bicycles to the park for what are typically longer stays. Its not unusual to see guests hang chili pepper lights around their encampment and I've also seen movie projectors set up with kids seated around watching Disney movies under the stars in Yosemite. This is a real gem of a location and reservations should be made several months in advance using the Yosemite Reservations website: www.yosemitepark.com/Accomodations_HousekeepingCamp.aspx.
Reservations are typically $75-$130 per night. Housekeeping Camp offers no eateries of its own, but does feature a small gift shop with groceries and firewood. For hot food, guests can make the short (<1 mile) walk to the restaurants at Curry Village.
Housekeeping UnitYosemite Lodge at the Falls: This lodge can best be described as a typical hotel. Each room offers comfortable beds, private baths, and even televisions (why on earth you'd watch television in the world's most beautiful place is beyond me, but its there if you'd like to use it.) The rooms are not particularly fancy, but are ideally situated near Yosemite Falls. There are several dining options available including a food court with a wide range of self-serve items, a fancier restaurant called the Mountain Room, a bar called the Mountain Room Lounge, and a small grocery. The Lodge, like Curry Village, also has an outdoor pool that is open during the warmer months. Average prices range between $120-$200 per night depending on season and demand.
The Ahwahnee Hotel: Exorbitantly expensive, but rumored to be worth every penny, the Ahwahnee Hotel was originally built as a way to draw influential and wealthy people to the nation's more breathtaking natural sites in order to garner their support for the concept of the National Parks. Located on the Valley Floor east of Yosemite Lodge, the Ahwahnee offers luxury accommodations and dining in the fabulously designed four star hotel. Prices range from $330-$500 depending on season and demand.
Ahwahnee HotelThere are several other campgrounds in and around Yosemite, but generally must be reserved up to a year in advance. For further details and booking information, please see: http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/campground.htm.
When to Go: Yosemite is breathtaking no matter the season. In fact, some of the best times to visit the Valley are in the colder months in late Fall and early Winter. But, if you are limited to just one or two trips a year, the following breakdown of seasons, conditions, and available activities should be of interest.
Spring: Warm days and cold nights punctuate this season. The Park is somewhat uncrowded in the Spring offering a chance to enjoy the Valley without all the hustle and bustle. On the plus side, the waterfalls are typically peaking in late May/early June, so if you are visiting to see peak water conditions or take photographs this might just be the ideal time to plan your visit. On the downside, much of Valley's granite walls are streaked with water from the dozens of seasonal cascades that fall from the high Sierra as the snow begins to melt. Plan on climbing on the Park's shady south side if visiting in Spring, or on any of the Park's hundreds of boulder problems.
Summer: By mid to late June, the temperatures and crowds both begin to skyrocket making climbing a sweaty chore, and navigating the available eateries, roads, and parking lots a nightmare. That said, the long days, mild nights, and warmer temps give visitors a chance to swim in the Merced River (use extreme caution!) or take a raft down the river (rentals available at Curry Village), swim in the man-made pools, and enjoy much longer hikes without the risk of getting caught benighted. If its too hot to climb, do what many Yosemite veterans do, and head to Tuolumne Meadows where the temperatures are much more mild and try your hand at run-out climbing up knob covered slabs.
Fall: Big wall season. Climbers flock to the Valley in the Fall, when the cooler days provide the best possible friction on Yosemite's glacier carved walls. Camp 4 is usually at its peak occupancy in the Fall, so make alternative plans in case there is no availability. You are likely to see many famous wall climbers tramping around the Valley and its a great time to lay in El Cap Meadows with a pair of binoculars to watch those brave souls as they work their way up the Big Stone! This is also the ideal chance to try and send some of those frustratingly slick boulder problems in Camp 4, below Sentinel, at the Ahwahnee, or in Curry Village.
Winter: While usually snow covered throughout the Winter, the Park Service does an excellent job paving the roads. Check the national park website for updated road conditions including chain conditions. I've traveled to Yosemite dozens of times in Winter and must say that it is one of my favorite seasons. The snow covered Valley, free of tourists, is paradise found! Opportunities for climbing depend on how cold the rock is. Its usually best to gravitate to the Park's north side as it gets the most sun in Winter and offers the best opportunities to go bouldering and the like. The rock can be very cold though, so consider a snowshoe trek followed by a hot toddy in the Mountain Room Lounge should you find it too cold to climb.
Route Suggestions: There are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of established routes in Yosemite. There are many guidebooks available that should be used as a reference upon arrival in the Valley. In the meantime though, I'll provide a few suggestions for single pitch (or short multipitch) moderates that have stood the test of time as absolute must do classics, especially for newer leaders.
Sunnyside Jamcrack P1 (5.7). Sunnyside Jamcrack is just East of the bridge below Yosemite Falls. Perfect hand jamming takes the leader up to a comfortable ledge that has bolths that can be used to set up top ropes for the thin, Lazy Bum (5.10d) and Bummer (5.10c). Often crowded, its best to arrive early or later in the evening if hoping to climb Sunnyside Jamcrack otherwise prepare to wait in line. A standard rack with a few #1s and #2s should suffice for most leaders. The only better jamming I've ever found is on Double Cross in Joshua Tree (5.8.)
(L-to-R) Bummer, Lazy Bum, JamcrackLemon (5.9): Just left of Bummer is the flake route, Lemmon. While much too short, and a bit awkward to place gear, Lemon is a very enjoyable route, that I highly recommend.
Lemon 5.9Another great area for beginner to intermediate climbers is the Swan Slab area at the East end of Camp 4. Here, its possible for a competent leader to set up a large number of top-ropes. The only rub is that this area is commonly used by the Yosemite Mountaineering School for their guided classes. So, just like the Jamcrack area, plan to climb here either during the week, or very early/late on weekends.
A few classics in the Swan Slabs area:
Grant's Crack (5.9): A somewhat difficult lead due to the thin and somewhat liebacking nature of the cracks, this is a very fun and challenging route that ends at a prominent tree above.
Penthouse Cracks (5.8-5.10+): Located at the West end of Swan Slabs there is a prominent slab with various 5.6-5.8 routes that can be top-roped using a tree/flake/crack at the top of a wide and flat platform of rock that is accessed by walking up and around the left side of the slabs. Above the platform are the penthouse cracks that can be top-roped off of a two bolt anchor. To reach the bolts for these cracks, ascend 3rd-4th class up the left side (not very exposed but obviously, as is always the case when scrambling, can be quite dangerous). The Penthouse cracks are great fun, offering three (or four) routes off the same top-rope. This area is also somewhat less crowded than the main Swan Slabs area.
Penthouse CracksPot Belly (5.8): Located at Knob Hill, this 5.8 crack route (with several variations) can be top-roped off gear anchors (several cams using cracks at top of route). The top can be reached by walking up on the right hand side. Knob Hill is found by parking in the pullout just past Cascade Falls off 120 after the Valley First comes into view. Take a climbers trail just right of the bridge over the falls up for 10 minutes or so until you see the route.
Pot Belly We will continue to update Yosemite with route information and hope that our readers will continue to share trip reports and favorite Yosemite Routes with us!
