Beaver Street Wall - Downtown San Francisco

Beaver Street Wall is located in the heart of downtown San Francisco just blocks off of Market Street near the Castro neighborhood. BSW features a very unique, glasslike face offering four top rope routes with the main crack line being a highly enjoyable 5.9 or 5.10- depending on your route guide.

The crux of all four climbs is in the first 15 feet or so. Afterwards all climbs converge at the main crack line, which doesn't require jamming as it offers many individual ledges and holds on the edges of the crack.

The rock surface is incredibly slick making smearing almost impossible. A variation that starts to the right of the main crack line offers climbers a chance to do some very tenuous and balancy moves up the mirror surface of the face. This is perhaps only 5.9 or low 5.10 also, so if you are having trouble, keep trying! You will eventually find the just right sequence of linking tiny rugosities to rejoin with the main crack line and cruise to the anchors.

To set up a top rope here, walk back out and turn right on Beaver Street. Head up the street past several houses to the concrete steps on your right. Follow the steps up and then past tennis courts. There will be a trail on your right. Follow this trail up and right until you reach a chainlink fence that guards unwitting pedestrians from falling down the face. VERY CAREFULLY climb over the fence and use either the chains or the concrete fence post to rig a top rope anchor. A single 21 foot length of cordelette works nicely for this anchor, as would tied off slings of similar length. I prefer to use the concrete block as opposed to the chains, but each climber is responsible for making their own assessment regarding the current condition of the chains and/or concrete block. If either or both look deteriorated or unsafe, DO NOT USE THEM! (As always, climb at your own risk!!!)

Note: I've mock-lead the crack line looking for gear placements and found that this would be a very challenging and runout lead. Most of the opportunities for gear offered openings for only very small stopper placements.

Have fun and be safe!