Mt. Diablo State Park offers excellent climbing on somewhat fragile, but smooth sandstone. Do not climb if it has rained in the last 48 hours as critical holds can break off after rains, and the rock is particularly seceptible to rope burns and scaring. Make sure to use long runners to extend anchors over the lip of climbs so as not to contribute to the grooves that the ropes of careless parties have left previously. Access has been an issue at Mt. Diablo in the past and careful and respectful use of the resource is critical to ensuring that climbing at Mt. Diablo remains legal.
Mt. Diablo State Park is home to the soaring two-peaked Mt. Diablo that at its highest stands at 3,864 ft. The park is 20,000 acres and offers several different climbing areas including both the adventurous Pine Canyon most easily reached from the North Entrance, and the ever popular Boy Scout Rocks accessed via the Southern Entrance.
One of the most popular routes in the area is The Amazing Face (5.9+) on Lower Boy Scout rocks. The Amazing Face is 90' and can be top roped off of several bolts.
To reach The Amazing Face, drive in the South Entrance (for more detailed driving directions, see below) and park at the Rock City parking lot. (Note: Do not leave climbing equipment or other valuables visible in your car!! There have been reports of break-ins in the past where climbers lost their entire racks.) From the Rock City parking lot, head downhill on the other side of the road from the parking area. You will find a trail near the picnic area. Take this trail to the right and after a quarter mile you will see The Amazing Face up on your right, which is easily identifiable given the two giant huecos on the lower portion of the climb. To reach the anchors head up behind the Face to the right. You will find a series of gullies leading to the top. The second and third gullies are both well suited to approaching the TR anchor.
The climb itself can be lead off of closely space bolts. You will need 10 quickdraws. Please note however that this climb is not a great beginners lead. While the bolts are spaced close together, the climbing itself is somewhat tenuous and sustained. A good idea for fledgling leaders who have an interest in giving the climb a go on the sharp end should probably mock-lead the climb first on top rope and then make a decision as to whether or not to start the climb from the ground up.
The climb begins below the first of two huecos. Head somewhat diagonally right as you climb higher. (Easiest to just follow the bolts.)
Other considerations: There is a $10 day use fee per vehicle. Also, Mt. Diablo is replete with Poison Oak. It lines both sides of the trail heading towards the Amazing Face and should be avoided at all costs!!!
Special care should be taken in the winter and fall when there are no leaves on the Poison Oak plant making it difficult to recognize. Your best bet is to make sure that no loose straps or other items in your position are hanging low or dragging and that you stay tightly to the middle of the path.
Directions to Mt. Diablo, Rock City: From the Oakland Bay Bridge, take I-80 E to CA-24/Hayward/Stockton. Once on CA-24, exit 15A onto I-680 S. Exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd. Continue straight onto Diablo Rd which becomes Mt. Diablo Scenic Blvd. Turn left on S Gate Rd and follow through the entrance station several miles to the pulloff for Rock City. From downtown SF, the drive time is approximately 45 minutes.
Lastly, please drive carefully (especially around switchbacks) once you begin climbing up Mt. Diablo towards Rock City. This narrow road is extremely popular with cyclists, who are often difficult to see when coming around curves in the road.
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