Mickey's Beach - Trip Report

Took my good friend, Jeff, who I met in Joshua Tree this winter, climbing yesterday at Mickey's Beach. He's just moved to the Bay Area from Arizona and was really looking forward to getting a taste of what the Bay Area has to offer!

We drove out in a heavy fog unsure of how dry the rock would be. I figured should the worse happen and he merely get to see and wander around on Mickey's and Stinson Beach, then the journey would still be a success.

Luckily, the rock was dry and we had the entire beach to ourselves!

We went to The Egg first where we climbed the Egg Face (5.9), Unknown (5.6), and then Jeff sent the spectacular 60' 5.11b/c, Egghead, as the waves pounded in past the start of Sign Language (5.10c) and came within feet of soaking both belayer and rope!

The Egg Face (5.9) is a 2 bolt, to 1 bolt anchor route on the East Face (uphill side) of The Egg. The route is great. It goes up high angle slab on thin holds. It is really 'balancey' although not difficult. This makes for a fun and thought provoking climb where it pays to be patient and think a few moves ahead. Would highly recommend this!

Unknown (5.6) shares both the first and last bolt with The Egg Face, but winds up to the right and then back left along the North-East arete, providing stunning views out over Stinson Beach and the mighty Pacific. Pretty sweet for a 30' 5.6!

Egghead (5.11 b/c) is the eastern most climb on the North face of The Egg. (Shares the arete with Unknown). It is approx 50 feet with 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It can be top roped after climbing either The Egg Face or Unknown by reaching over the edge to the two bolt anchor. The start may be the crux as it is a gently overhanging bulge with difficult footwork. Once past this obstacle however, the climbing becomes terrific liebacking up the arete. It helps to continue to hook the feet over the edge of the arete as you ascend.

We then hiked back out and headed over to the Main Rock at Mickey's Beach. Here Jeff made an excellent lead up Walkin' a Thin Line (5.10c R, 4 bolts to two bolt anchor). The route begins with a tricky leftward traverse and then heads up and right up a slab finish. It is run out at the top and there were a few moments where my palms were sweaty just watching. Always the composed rope gun however, Jeff just calmly and casually made his way up the delicate slab moves. Another great route!

We then noticed that the tide had begun to move out, opening up a spit of sand almost clear to Stinson Beach. We took our shoes off and headed over to The Orange Buddha Boulder and did some barefoot bouldering until the sun had almost fully disappeared below the horizon of the Pacific Ocean.



* For further information regarding The Egg and Mickey's Beach, please see the Climbing Area page elsewhere on this site.