Split Rock & Turtle Rock - Ring Mtn, Tiburon, Marin County

High above the Bay atop Ring Mountain in Tiburon, sit two Serpentine rock formations: Split Rock and Turtle Rock.

Split Rock, is a 30' rock bisected by a chimney. On the face there are a dozen or more 5.5-5.8 climbs that are best suited for top roping, as they offer rather scant opportunity for gear placements (although two contrived leads can be accomplished.)

The top roping here requires parties build there own anchors and thus can and should only be attempted by those very familiar with trad placements and nut equalization as the best anchors at Split Rock tend to include a combination of one (or more) small cam placement(s) and a series of equalized stoppers in the cracks running along the flat top of the rock. Make sure to bring long webbing to extend your anchor out across the chimney and over the lip.



Turtle Rock is a short hike away from Split Rock up over the hill and to the right. It features really enjoyable and easy to moderate bouldering. There are a few more difficult (and higher) problems, but the bulk of the climbing is V-fun. Many different routes and variations exist, and its generally most fun to skip the guidebook routine of picking routes to try and instead creating your own lines (in a sense) depending on what variations and/or problems appeal to you.

Beware: At Turtle Rock there is often poison oak at the incut base of the rock. It is hard to see because of the tall grass that covers the top of Ring Mountain. You'll want to make sure you aren't pushing your crash pad into the Poison Oak should any be present at the time of your visit.

Directions: Take 101-N from the Golden Gate Bridge. Take exit 449 to Tamalpais Drive toward Paradise Drive. Take Paradise Drive to a right turn on Taylor Rd. Taylor Road is a residential street that goes steeply uphill to a cul-de-sac. Park on the right at the cul-de-sac. The drive time from downtown SF without traffic is approximately 25 minutes.

Split Rock will be visible directly in front of you. To reach Turtle Rock, head right up the paved road at the end of the cul-de-sac (on foot past the locked gate). Follow it uphill and then hang left onto dirt trails over the ridge. Turtle Rock will come in to view below you once you reach the ridge.

This whole area offers fantastic views and a generally secluded place to climb.

Lastly, it can be very windy at the top of Ring Mountain so layer up, and don't foget your camera!

View to the San Francisco city skyline from Turtle Rock.