Hikes & Bikes

Favorite Hikes: Yosemite National Park

Not just for world renowned rock-climbing, Yosemite is also home to some of the best and most breath-taking hiking on Earth. Below is a short summary of our favorite hikes in Yosemite National Park grouped by area.

Yosemite Valley

4 Mile Trail: Ascending nearly 3,200 feet off the Valley Floor, 4 Mile Trail links hikers from near the base of Sentinel Rock in Yosemite Valley, all the way up to Glacier Point on the Valley's South Eastern side, this is surely one of the Valley's best and most arduous hikes. Distances are 4.7 miles one way, and 9.4 miles round trip. Some hikers prefer to take the hiker's shuttle from Yosemite Lodge (times: 8:30, 10:00, and 1:30 pm) to the top of Glacier Point and hike only back down to the Valley. Cost of the ride one-way is $25 for adults, $23 for seniors, and $15 for children. Tickets are available at the Yosemite Lodge tour desk. This hike offers spectacular views and a more pleasurable challenge than the Upper Yosemite Falls trail that climbs the opposite side of the Valley. The trail is less rocky, wider, and offers a gentler grade than the one that ascends to the West side of Yosemite Falls. Also, a bonus with 4 Mile Trail is the ability to see Yosemite Falls for almost the entire way up.

Upper Yosemite Falls Trail: 3.8 miles one-way, or 7.6 miles round trip and 2,600 feet of elevation gain make the Upper Yosemite Falls trail one of the main challenges for hikers visiting Yosemite National Park. Beginning with over 60 short and steep switchbacks up a rock-strewn trail beginning at the trailhead at the back of Camp 4, the hike immediately attempts to weed out those out of shape or unprepared. After these initial switchbacks, hiker's are greeted by the excellent view at Columbia Point. From here, approximately 1/3 finished with the hike, and nearly 1,100 feet off the Valley Floor, hikers can stand at the metal railing and take in sweeping views down both sides of the Valley, gaze at the towering majesty of Half Dome, and the fingernail size swimming pool in back of Yosemite Lodge. Not far from Columbia Point, the trail turns a corner and opens up a view of Upper Yosemite Falls. If early in the season, a fair amount of moisture/mist will rain down on hikers here as they move along the flattish path towards the base of the Upper Falls. Here a final round of switchbacks (many) lead up to the top of Yosemite Falls and fabulous views out over the Valley. Those with extra energy can continue on for another mile or so to Yosemite Point which looks out over Lost Arrow Spire and the Valley Floor. As always in Yosemite, bring much more water on these longer hikes than you think you need, plenty of snacks, and pace yourself.

Vernal and Nevada Falls via the Mist Trail: 7 miles round trip to the top of Nevada Falls, and 1,900 feet of elevation gain. This is perhaps my favorite hike in all of Yosemite Valley. Ascending up the well-named Mist Trail, hikers are treated to direct views, and summits, of two water falls Vernal Falls (317 feet tall) and Nevada Falls (594 feet). Take the Mist Trail up the right side of Vernal Falls to its metal railing surrounded summit, then continue up past Nevada Falls on its left side to its summit. Take your time basking in your accomplishment, the suns rays, and gorgeous views of Liberty Cap before heading down. Descend via the John Muir Trail after crossing over the Merced River above Nevada Falls. This descent option is much easier on the knees offering a much reduced grade, and longer, flatter, and less rocky switchbacks on the way back down to the observation bridge below Vernal Falls. If it's early in the season or the water level seems particularly high, hikers may wish to have a poncho with them for Vernal Falls as the mist blowing off the Falls can completely soak through a hiker's clothes in minutes. Also, it shouldn't need to be said, but exercise extreme caution on the wet and rocky trails here. People have slipped and fallen to their deaths at various points along the trail. The exposure and level of objective danger are not unreasonable, but carelessness or allowing oneself to become dehydrated or distracted can and does result in serious accidents.

Half Dome: Now a permit-only hike, Half Dome's summit is reached via the famed cables that are located several miles past the top of Nevada Falls on Half Dome's South side. If you are able to reserve a permit very early in the year for a summit attempt on Half Dome, you will be one of 400 visitors that day to try to set aside fear and exhaustion to reach one of North America's (if not the world's) most famous hike-up to rock summits. The hike is nearly 18.5 miles round trip from Curry Village and culminates in an exposed hike up to the top of the sub-dome (very narrow, and slippery rock switchbacks to here), followed by steel cables for 400 feet to the Half Dome's summit. Many people have died on the summit cables from both accidental falls, lightening, and from sudden rain storms that caused the granite to become incredibly slick and dangerous. The Park Service is currently reviewing different ideas for making this hike less dangerous including the recently implemented permitting system which limits the dangerous overcrowding on the cables. This does not mean however that at peak times there will not still be a slow moving (or non-moving) congo line on the cables with fear stricken hikers who are unable to move up or down. This hike strikes me as unnecessarily dangerous (as each hiker is responsible for assessing thunderstorm risks, personal hydration, the competency of those around them, etc while already in an environment that is often foreign to them and while typically exhausted.) I can't honestly advocate this hike while comparatively safer and far less crowded gems such as North Dome and Sentinel Dome are available. That said, if you simply must do Half Dome be sure you can identify building storms (which come on extremely quickly in the Sierras), consider protection opportunities such as quick draws and a harness, bring way more water than you think you'll need, and be sure you are fit enough for this gruelling 18.5 mile, 4,800 ft elevation gain marathon. If so, have fun, but be very careful!

Sentinel Dome and Taft Point and the Fissures: One of my favorite places to take visitors in YNP, these two Valley rim features offer more serenity than the more crowded hikes listed above, with a chance to see classic Yosemite views without the hordes of camera toting tourists (I know, I know...I'm one too!) Driving towards Glacier Point along Glacier Point Rd, park at a paved pullout on the left with perpendicular parking spaces and a concrete bathroom facility (come early to make sure you get a spot on crowded weekends!) Leaving the parking area, hike to the East for 1.1 miles along a well marked trail, and ascend the low angle slabs on Sentinel Dome's eastern side to its summit. Here, at 8,100 feet (also the second highest point overlooking the Valley Floor with only Half Dome being higher at 8,800 feet), you will be rewarded with 360 degree views of Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and the high Sierra to the East. This is truly one of the finest places in the Valley to relax and practice your photography! Retrace your steps back to the parking area, but continue past the cars for 1.1 more miles to Taft Point and the Fissures. Beware that the Fissures are incut rock chimney's that fall away several thousand feet to the Valley Floor. Keep an eye on the next step, not just through the view finder on your camera! Taft Point offers a metal railing for protection as you peer out over the edge and look down on El Capitan! After the hikes, finish off by driving over to Glacier Point for its classic views and a libation at the small gift shop and eatery.

Approaching North Dome's Summit

North Dome:Park at the Porcupine Creek area on Tioga Rd (in Tuolumne Meadows, Hwy 120 E). From here hike 4.4 miles each way down the summit of North Dome. The crowds are even less a factor here than on Sentinel Dome and the views of Half Dome's face from directly across Tenaya Canyon and down through Yosemite Valley make this hike an absolute must do if the road through Tuolumne Meadows is open for the season. If you are early in the season, and the water is high, you may have to cross streams in certain places. This can be deadly. Make sure to find a safe area to cross (if inobvious from previous parties) and take your time.

Tuolumne Meadows Area

Pothole Dome: Park in the pullout off Hwy 120 Tioga Pass Road at the sign for Pothole Dome. Use a well worn path to cross the meadow to its base, and 3rd/4th class your way up the Dome's low angle shoulder. This is a really quick adventure, but is great fun. Its amazing what modern day, sticky rubber hiking shoes/boots can do on textured Yosemite granite. Trust your feet and make your way up to Pothole Domes summit for views sweeping out across Tuolumne Meadows.

Lembert Dome: The classic dome hike in Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome is the prominent sloping dome directly off the road near the Tuolumne Lodge area. The trailhead starts at 8,500 ft and ascends 900 feet to the thinner air summit at 9,400 ft. The hike is 2.8 miles round trip and ample parking is located at the trailhead. The trail leads hikers to the bare rock shoulder of Lembert Dome. From here slowly navigate your way to the small summit block, and carefully scramble up to the Dome's true summit using extreme caution to avoid sliding down the slabs. Excellent views of Tuolumne River and Meadows make for a terrific finish.