Indian Rock & Mortar Rock - Berkeley Hills, East Bay

Boasting great views out across the Bay to the SF city skyline and the Golden Gate Bridge, Indian Rock is one of the Bay Area's best places to boulder.

Climbers have been using Indian Rock and nearby crags, Cragmont and Remillard Park, as training grounds for the greater challenges in Yosemite and beyond for almost 100 years.

Famed climbers and innovators, Dick Leonard, David Brower, Jules Eichorn, and Bestor Robinson practiced belay and rappelling techniques at Cragmont and Indian Rock before heading to Yosemite to do the first big climb in the Valley, Higher Cathedral Spire. Other locals including Allen Steck, Galen Rowell, and John Sherman (inventor of the V-scale) honed their skills here.

The rock is volanic in origin, specifically rhyolite. It is sharp in places and smooth in others where thousands of chalked hands have smoothed the surfaces of many of the holds over the past decades.

There are dozens of routes, ranging from easy to very difficult. The area offers shorter problems for beginners along the front of the rock facing the road. In 'The Pit' on the downhill side of the rock, climbers will be presented with high balls that verge on free solos. Extreme caution should be used here. There is no shame in sticking to the shorter climbs or traverses, preferring to rope up for higher climbs elsewhere. While an old belay pole exists at the top of The Pit, it is a very high traffic area and climbers seem to (and perhaps should given the local prevailing etiquette) avoid bogarting the rock by heading to nearby Cragmont or Remillard to rope up. There is an overhang in the Pit that can be roped with two new Metolius bolts and the I-boulder wedged high above the Pit can be roped with a single bolt (beware that in climbing, as in soldiering, '2 is 1, and 1 is none'!!!)

Across the street from Indian Rock there is a 10-14 foot tall wall that runs about 30 feet horizontally. Often overlooked by visiting climbers, this little outcrop can provide hours of fun given the very small, almost micro holds, the lack of defined routes, and the tenuous nature of the climbing. One way to make great use of this spectacular little crag is to play H-O-R-S-E or similar games with a partner, inventing variatons on the fly and tempting your climbing partner(s) to follow in your footsteps. Another good exercise here is to traverse the rock right and left focusing on footwork and endurance. Lastly, there is a small(ish) overhang at the far end of the rock that allows a boulderer a fun challenge without having to fear a long or painful fall.



A few hundred yards up the road from Indian Rock is Mortar Rock. This area features very difficult problems including the famed Nat's Traverse (V8).


Mortar Rock


Getting There: From I-80 East, take the Buchanan Street exit, which becomes Marin Avenue. Follow Marin Avenue to the Arlington Circle (a traffic circle). Exit right onto Indian Rock Avenue where the park will appear on your left within approximately 200 yards.

Considerations: There are no restrooms at Indian Rock Park. The area is nestled in the middle of a neighborhood, so please help to maintain positive relations by avoiding cursing, littering, and general shenanigans while climbing here. There are several trashcans at the park, and a good water fountain on the front side of the rock facing the road. Parking is available along the street, although one should come early on weekends to ensure a spot and to avoid the crowds. The park is often most enjoyable for doing a quick circuit in the evenings after work where one will see neighborhood residents and visitors picnicking atop the rock or just taking in the sunset.

Nearby: Within a few short blocks are both Cragmont and Remillard parks which are great places for beginners and intermediate climbers to rope up. On San Pablo Avenue (approx 10 minute drive) there are many local eateries. And while the venerable Wilderness Exchange store closed last year, the Berkeley REI store is located along San Pablo in the nearby vicinity of the old WE should one forget or run-out of chalk, decide they finally need to invest in a crash pad, etc.

Have fun and be safe and remember that climbing is inherently dangerous. Bringing along a nice sturdy crash pad, experienced and attentive spotters, and your game face will all contribute to having a safe and fun experience but provide no guarantee against injury or worse. Climb at your own risk, and use your head!