On Thursday night, our crew assembled at an apartment in San Francisco with well laid plans for a night of revelry before an alpine start up to the Valley on Friday morning. We went out, had a few drinks, a few laughs, and then headed back for a fitful night's rest - all of us reporting the next morning that our Quake City bivy had been difficult due to the rumblings of excitement we were all feeling.
We awoke, had a quick breakfast of bagels and coffee, and hit the ground running at 0' dark thirty.
Our friends Jeff and Mandy (see Stinson Beach and Tahoe trip reports), were joining Thuy and I for a weekend of climbing and picking up trash as part of the Yosemite Climbing Association's 9th Annual Yosemite Facelift, where climbers and friends work to rid the Park of waste. It would be Jeff and Mandy's first Facelift, and Thuy and I's second. And while Mandy had been to Yosemite before, this would be Jeff's first pilgrimage to what is one of, if not the, mecca of world rock climbing.
Passing the turnoff for Foresta, I began to pay close attention in the rear view mirror to Jeff's facial expressions. I knew that he would soon get his first glimpse of the Valley, and being that he is a climber with a deep love of crack climbing in places like Joshua Tree and Cochise Stronghold, I knew he was about to recognize this granite paradise for the Shangri-la that is is. Sure enough, he began hyperventilating at Tunnel View and caused one of our group to earnestly suggest to him he take deep breaths and try to avoid panicking!
We ditched the car and made a beeline for the Penthouse Cracks, a row of four cracks that begin off a large flat granite balcony thirty feet or so off the Valley floor at the far edge of Camp 4. We took turns top-roping each of these lines, repeatedly exclaiming how incredible the rock quality is, offering perfect hand and finger jams, difficult and thought provoking foot work on glacier polished granite, and having that special characteristic of some climbing mediums and routes that offer up holds or stances exactly where necessary but seemingly no where else...As if the geological process had taken place with future human climbers in mind!
Climbing in a light sprinkle, we thought we heard some thunder and decided to pack it in and run a few errands before the great Jim Donini's presentation in the East Auditorium that was one of the week long Facelift's evening events.
We arrived early and after wandering around star struck by many of the luminaries of Yosemite's amazing climbing history, we took our seats and listened as Jim Donini told us about first ascents in Patagonia and Alaska, his epic with Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy, and George Lowe on Latok I, and about his most recent adventures to Tajikistan and Iran. We also noted how unique and interesting it was to hear about his first ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia with John Bragg and Jay Wilson, where they had found much of Maestri's gear on the way up, but how it stopped short of even the Col of Conquest, and how therefore, Donini, once a Maestri believer (more it would seem out of a standard ethic of believing another climber at his or her word, rather than questioning everything and becoming embroiled in the ensuing controversy), could no longer accept the Italian's original reports of successfully summitting Cerro Torre.
The next day we went to Sunnyside Bench where we found the classic two-pitch Sunnyside Jamcrack (P1, 5.7; P2 5.9) route jammed up with a queue of waiting climbers. Instead of waiting idly, Jeff jumped on the lieback flake route, Lemon (5.9), and set up a top rope. Thuy, Mandy, and I each climbed this less somewhat less popular route and loved every second of it. If it was only longer I'm certain more climbers would find this route to be a classic!
We then climbed on the .10d and .10c cracks between Lemon and Sunnyside Jamcrack, where Thuy turned in an awesome performance by hanging in there and completing the difficult lieback section at the end of the .10d!
We took turns on Jamcrack and then packed up and went to check in at the Facelift stand as volunteers.
We were armed with our litter sticks and trash bags just before a violent lightening storm and heavy rain hit the Valley. We waited out the rain and in the evening went for a short hike to the Indian Caves and the nearby boulders before turning in for the night.
We awoke Sunday morning and spent a few hours scrambling around in the Lower Yosemite Falls amphitheater and drainage finding hats, water bottles, food trash, steel cables, and even two shoes! We had a blast doing this and as a group hauled out 16 pounds of trash. We were disappointed that we weren't able to volunteer more, as in 2009 when we volunteered for five full days, but felt great that we were able to participate at all and each of us related to the others the psychic bounty our efforts bestowed upon us. I for example, while staring deep into the meadow grass along the road looking for trash realized suddently how beautiful these meadows are in their own right, whereas on all these trips over the years, I'd overlooked them (quite literally) as my gaze was affixed higher on the Valley's towering walls.
We dropped off our haul, and went to Camp 4 for one last bit of climbing where Jeff made short work of Grant's Crack, a fun, thin 5.9 set of parallel finger cracks that curves up and right to an anchor at a tree.
Jeff and I headed back and got into the car to head home, but not before giving serious consideration to the idea of sending Mandy and Thuy home with the car, forgetting our more urbane responsibilities, and staying in the Valley until further notice. Prudence got the better of us this time, and we settled for plans to come back in a week.
Many thanks to Ken Yeager and the rest of the Yosemite Climbing Association and Facelift volunteers for working so hard to keep the Valley clean and beautiful and for the incredibly special evening programs. Thanks also to my companions for such a wonderful trip!
1st Annual Meyers Climbing Festival & Bouldering Competition
We awoke at 4:45 a.m. on Saturday, September, 17th, brewed a giant pot of dark coffee, loaded up our car, and hit the ground running. We arrived in Meyers (4 miles south of Lake Tahoe) at around 8:30 and parked in the lot next to the Divided Sky bar and restaurant. There we met up with friends Jeff & Mandy, registered for the comp, and after milling about and meeting a few dozen other climbers, we headed straight to the Pie Shop Boulders. Located just North of the Agricultural Checkpoint in Meyers, the Pie Shop Boulders sit just off the right hand side of the road 0.25 miles after turning left onto Sawmill Pond Road. Park in the dirt pullouts on the left. (Note: There are homes adjacent to this area, so please be respectful and noise conscious entering and exiting the Pie Shop area to ensure continued access!) The boulders here feature very large grained granite leaving very sharp and friction-friendly boulders. There is everything from patina faces, to cracks, to exfoliating flakes. There are traverses, highballs, overhangs, slabs, and sit-start aretes. Basically, some of everything, just come prepared to lose some skin!
Upon entering the area, we approached our first problem for the day. A mid-height crimper affair on mostly featureless granite. Excited, I threw my boots on and fired the thing, laughing and jokingly congratulating myself for a flash ('flashes' or 'on-sights,' given extra weighting in this comp, refer to the successful ascent of a boulder, problem, or route without ever having seen or tried it before...). Only then did I realize I had committed bouldering's original sin and forgotten to circle the boulder first to ensure and locate an acceptable down climb. Benighted for a few minutes, our small posse had a good laugh before I finally negotiated a partially blind and slightly overhanging down-climb off the back side.
Now both physically and mentally warmed up, we began a nearly two hour rampage through Pie Shop's spectacular offerings. All throughout the boulders grappled fellow competitors, the spirit of the day less competitive, and more the jovial collegiality of climbers enjoying a beautiful mid to high-70's day in the insurmountable beauty of the Lake Tahoe area of the Sierras.
Gang spots, stacks of crash pads, and cheering sections lead each of us to surpass ourselves. High balls and problems of each successive difficulty fell as the energy rose.
Our fingers already beginning to show significant wear and tear, we decamped and headed for the small local grocery. After restocking our supplies, we went back down Sawmill Pond Road to its terminus at Lake Tahoe Boulevard. There at the top of the 'T' at the intersection there is a large dirt parking area. Twenty feet behind the 'T' is the Glass Boulder, likely named for the unfortunately high quantity of broken glass at its base. On this note, a suggestion: If everyone bouldering here picked up one or two pieces of glass on their way out, this area might see improvement. We cleaned up what we could find, but I'm sure we missed some. Keep an eye out and be careful if walking barefoot around the boulder between attempts!!!)
The Glass Boulder sits approximately 15 feet high and has several excellent lines on it - all in the sub-V4 range. It can be a bit high in places, but has a nice and easy sloped descent line. We greatly enjoyed a V2 arete problem on the back left side and a V2/3 SDS ('sit down start') to crack line. Jeff sent an amazing flaring corner which we believe may be V4-ish, before Thuy topped-out the crack problem with an unbelievable heel-hooking mantel. We cheered her courage and ingenuity. Breakthrough moments! So fun to watch, experience, and be a part of one another's athletic and mental breakthroughs! The best part of it all of course is that, in climbing, as long as you are excited and challenging yourself, it's 'always just the beginning!'
We went back up Sawmill Pond Rd and turned off onto the Access Road for Sawmill Pond. There is a large paved parking lot with two pit toilets and trash cans next to the pond. We parked here and after a short walk up a dirt road arrived at the Hemorrhoid Boulder. There looked to be many great problems here, but as it was surrounded by a large throng of climbers, we went back down towards the road and after a brief hike into the woods, arrived at the Bob Boulder. This boulder is high and steep and offers several problems from V1-V9. We climbed and enjoyed a good deal of success before packing up our shoes and crash pads for the day.
We went back to the registration parking lot where we enjoyed the free festival and gorged ourselves on pulled pork and pizza (from local restaurants). We watched as climbers and spectators tried out Aerial Yoga on a giant tripod with long ribbons of fabric (picture Zumanity without the nudity.) We checked out the booths, watched some slack lining, and then had to make an early departure back to the Bay.
While we weren't able to stick around to see who won each division or for the Dyno Competition, we felt overwhelmingly satisfied, tired, and happy. Keeping with the spirit of the day, we didn't even turn in our score sheets. It was never even a discussion. After all, the day wasn't about winning or losing, it was about getting out with friends, climbing in new areas, learning and evolving, and having fun!
Mickey's Beach - Trip Report
Took my good friend, Jeff, who I met in Joshua Tree this winter, climbing yesterday at Mickey's Beach. He's just moved to the Bay Area from Arizona and was really looking forward to getting a taste of what the Bay Area has to offer!
We drove out in a heavy fog unsure of how dry the rock would be. I figured should the worse happen and he merely get to see and wander around on Mickey's and Stinson Beach, then the journey would still be a success.
Luckily, the rock was dry and we had the entire beach to ourselves!
We went to The Egg first where we climbed the Egg Face (5.9), Unknown (5.6), and then Jeff sent the spectacular 60' 5.11b/c, Egghead, as the waves pounded in past the start of Sign Language (5.10c) and came within feet of soaking both belayer and rope!
The Egg Face (5.9) is a 2 bolt, to 1 bolt anchor route on the East Face (uphill side) of The Egg. The route is great. It goes up high angle slab on thin holds. It is really 'balancey' although not difficult. This makes for a fun and thought provoking climb where it pays to be patient and think a few moves ahead. Would highly recommend this!
Unknown (5.6) shares both the first and last bolt with The Egg Face, but winds up to the right and then back left along the North-East arete, providing stunning views out over Stinson Beach and the mighty Pacific. Pretty sweet for a 30' 5.6!
Egghead (5.11 b/c) is the eastern most climb on the North face of The Egg. (Shares the arete with Unknown). It is approx 50 feet with 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It can be top roped after climbing either The Egg Face or Unknown by reaching over the edge to the two bolt anchor. The start may be the crux as it is a gently overhanging bulge with difficult footwork. Once past this obstacle however, the climbing becomes terrific liebacking up the arete. It helps to continue to hook the feet over the edge of the arete as you ascend.
We then hiked back out and headed over to the Main Rock at Mickey's Beach. Here Jeff made an excellent lead up Walkin' a Thin Line (5.10c R, 4 bolts to two bolt anchor). The route begins with a tricky leftward traverse and then heads up and right up a slab finish. It is run out at the top and there were a few moments where my palms were sweaty just watching. Always the composed rope gun however, Jeff just calmly and casually made his way up the delicate slab moves. Another great route!
We then noticed that the tide had begun to move out, opening up a spit of sand almost clear to Stinson Beach. We took our shoes off and headed over to The Orange Buddha Boulder and did some barefoot bouldering until the sun had almost fully disappeared below the horizon of the Pacific Ocean.
* For further information regarding The Egg and Mickey's Beach, please see the Climbing Area page elsewhere on this site.
