Mt. Tamalpais
View from Northern FormationHigh above Marin County and the San Francisco Bay, Mt. Tamalpais, at 2,574 feet, is the highest point in Marin County and stands sentinel-like at the mouth of the bay. From the parking area at the top, Mt. Tam offers some decent rock climbing, with world class views. While the rock here is somewhat chossy, there are a number of routes that can be top-roped.
Geology: Serpentine (much like that found at Stinson and Mickey's Beach).
Directions: From San Francisco, take the Golden Gate Bridge North into Marin County. Use the exit for Stinson Beach/CA 1. Turn left on Shoreline to stay on CA-1N. Then turn right on Panoramic Hwy. Follow the signs to Mt. Tam and follow road to the summit parking lot.
Cost: Day pass parking at the summit is $7.
Approach: You will see several main rock formations from the loop hike at Mt. Tam's summit. It is easiest however to take the plank trail up to the lookout tower and approach the rock routes from above. (If it is your first time climbing at Mt. Tam, it helps to hike the loop once to view the formations from below, thus allowing easier navigation when coming from above to set up TR anchors.)
Routes range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.11b (for the famed Oberman roof crack) with most of the routes in the 5.7-5.8 range. Top ropes here require trad anchors and slinging chockstones. Bring long webbing and cams for most anchors. There are a few very rusty quarter inch buttonhead bolts from a different era atop several of the climbs. DO NOT USE THESE BOLTS! They are no better than coffin nails!
While not the best climbing, you can't really find better views while cragging in the Bay Area (except for Mickey's Beach perhaps!)
Olberman's Crack
Northern Formation
Mickey's Beach
Mickey's Beach is home to the highest concentration of difficult, and also possibly the most beautiful and exotic, climbing in the near Bay Area. Located off Highway 1 North a mile or two south of Stinson Beach, Mickey's provides climbers challenging sport climbing on Serpentine rock right next to the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean.
The rock here has not only been known to break, but in the 1990s a major storm took an entire face and several popular routes and collapsed them into the ocean. The bolts are ring bolts (basically a U-shape of metal with the two prongs hammered into the rock). That said, the setting and the difficulty make Mickey's a magnet for fit sport climbers.
The Serpentine rock often feels slick even when dry, thus making many climbs here feel more difficult than their guidebook ratings (ie. leaders should not expect to climb at their sport leading limits at this rock until very familiar with the terrain.).
There are two different areas of Mickey's.
The EggThe first is the Egg boulder perched at the far end of the rocky beach adjacent to the Steep Ravine cabins camp site. The Egg offers routes ranging from 5.6 up to 5.12c. On the side of the rock facing the hillside, there are two short 30' sport climbs, each with two bolts leading to a one bolt anchor (beware!) The one on the right is 5.6, the left 5.9. Both climbs are very enjoyable and the 5.6 offers views past the arete at the stunning Pacific Ocean. As the belay spot for these climbs is on a small dirt mound connecting the Egg to the hillside, these two climbs can be done regardless of the tide. Please note that while both climbs are fun, the distance from the second bolt to the single anchor bolt on both is perhaps far enough to allow for a ground fall. While I haven't personally tested this theory (thank goodness!) parties should assess this potential hazard for themselves. We suggest a collected and competent leader for both climbs. Another consideration is the fact that while the climbing is not difficult to the first bolt (which the climbs share), the potential to fall and stumble down a rocky gully to the climbers right and cause serious harm to oneself should also be considered before making the long trek down to the rock (although should one arrive unprepared to climb, they will still be treated to fabulous views in a serene and somewhat secluded setting.)
Some endorsement I know.)
Another gem is a .10c on the right hand side of the Egg (as viewed from the road above). This climb follows the arete nearest the ocean and provides a challenge for the belayer both in positioning on boulders at the base and avoiding the spray of crashing waves (beware ropes wet with salt water!)
Approach: Park at the pullout for the Steep Ravine campground located off Hwy 1 North. After making sure that any and all valuables are out of sight, begin your descent to the rock by hiking down the paved road to the campground. Continue past the campground and onto the rock beach where the Egg is located at the far end. The hike takes approx 10 minutes and can be a strenuous march back up with too much gear, so travel light!
The second, and main area, at Mickey's Beach is located just further North on Hwy 1 below a large dirt and gravel pullout. Take the obvious trail at the right hand side of the parking lot down the hillside to the beach. There you will approach a large rock connected to the hillside. The majority of the climbs are located on hiker's right. Warning: The beach at Mickey's is a popular nude beach and on nice days its almost a guarantee that several sunbathers will be laying out in the buff. If this offends you, then head elsewhere.
This main area features only one climb below 5.10 which is Peeper's Rock, a 5.9 so named because its summit provides the unscrupulous and successful ascentionist the opportunity to ogle the free spirited beach goers from above (although I've never found this to be too enjoyable a reward! Call me picky if you must.)
Peeper's Rock is a two bolt affair that is no more than 25 or so feet. The anchor consists of two Ring bolts that can be used to rappel. Having done this climb a number of times I feel comfortable stating that the climb continues to be one of the more difficult (or at least slippery and awkward) 5.9s I've ever done. The crux comes at the second bolt where numerous leaders admit to 'french-freeing' the route by hooking a finger or two through the second bolt while clipping (In case you were wondering, I must plead the fifth as to whether or not I've ever made this transgression...!). Further, the distance to the first bolt is approximately 15 feet of somewhat slippery climbing making it likely that the average 5.9 leader would perhaps think of stick clipping the first bolt.
Peeper's RockThere is also a wide variety of bouldering available both along Mickey's Beach and nearby Stinson Beach. (Two miles north on Hwy 1 North, features a large parking lot at a lovely sand covered beach.)
Directions: From downtown San Francisco, take the Golden Gate Bridge north to Hwy 1 North towards Stinson Beach. Use the pullouts identified above to reach each area.
Season: Mickey's Beach and Stinson can provide good climbing any time of year depending on the wind speeds, the tides, and how wet it has been recently.
Other: Camping is available at the Steep Ravine Cabins campground by reservation only. These campsites and the cabins located here must be reserved usually months in advance but could make for a wonderful close to home weekend getaway.
Have fun, be safe, and climb entirely at your own risk. The information provided here was believed to be accurate at the time of this posting but conditions of bolts, the rocks, etc change with time and use. We assume no liability of any kind whatsoever. Enjoy!
Split Rock & Turtle Rock - Ring Mtn, Tiburon
High above the Bay atop Ring Mountain in Tiburon, sit two Serpentine rock formations: Split Rock and Turtle Rock.
Split Rock, is a 30' rock bisected by a chimney. On the face there are a dozen or more 5.5-5.8 climbs that are best suited for top roping, as they offer rather scant opportunity for gear placements (although two contrived leads can be accomplished.)
The top roping here requires parties build there own anchors and thus can and should only be attempted by those very familiar with trad placements and nut equalization as the best anchors at Split Rock tend to include a combination of one (or more) small cam placement(s) and a series of equalized stoppers in the cracks running along the flat top of the rock. Make sure to bring long webbing to extend your anchor out across the chimney and over the lip.
Turtle Rock is a short hike away from Split Rock up over the hill and to the right. It features really enjoyable and easy to moderate bouldering. There are a few more difficult (and higher) problems, but the bulk of the climbing is V-fun. Many different routes and variations exist, and its generally most fun to skip the guidebook routine of picking routes to try and instead creating your own lines (in a sense) depending on what variations and/or problems appeal to you.
Beware: At Turtle Rock there is often poison oak at the incut base of the rock. It is hard to see because of the tall grass that covers the top of Ring Mountain. You'll want to make sure you aren't pushing your crash pad into the Poison Oak should any be present at the time of your visit.
Directions: Take 101-N from the Golden Gate Bridge. Take exit 449 to Tamalpais Drive toward Paradise Drive. Take Paradise Drive to a right turn on Taylor Rd. Taylor Road is a residential street that goes steeply uphill to a cul-de-sac. Park on the right at the cul-de-sac. The drive time from downtown SF without traffic is approximately 25 minutes.
Split Rock will be visible directly in front of you. To reach Turtle Rock, head right up the paved road at the end of the cul-de-sac (on foot past the locked gate). Follow it uphill and then hang left onto dirt trails over the ridge. Turtle Rock will come in to view below you once you reach the ridge.
This whole area offers fantastic views and a generally secluded place to climb.
Lastly, it can be very windy at the top of Ring Mountain so layer up, and don't foget your camera!
View to the San Francisco city skyline from Turtle Rock.Mount Saint Helena, Calistoga - The Bubble
Mount Saint Helena is located on the boundaries of Napa, Sonoma, and Lake counties and from its summitt offers awe-inspiring views of the famous wine producing valleys of Northern CA. On very clear days, one can see all the way to the San Francisco city skyline. Mt. St. Helena is just north of Calistoga, approximately 90 miles from the heart of San Francisco.
The rock is volanic in origin and the routes here include a wide array of protection styles and feels. Some areas here include both bolts and also require some trad placements (gear such as caming devices and chocks). In other areas, such as The Bubble (pictured below) top roping is accessible and fun.
The Bubble offers routes ranging from 5.7 - 5.11+. To set top ropes, use a faint climbers trail on the left side of the face which is low third class to the summit. Please note that the bolt hangars appear to be possibly homemade and therefore of more suspect quality than the beefier branded kind and in places we felt the need to anchor ourselves to nearby trees in order to safely reach the anchor bolts. If you have any question about your ability to safely overcome these obstacles and make well informed decisions regarding your own safety, wait to make this approach hike until you are with more experienced climbers.
Most (if not all) routes on the Bubble can be done on lead as sport routes.
Once on the rock, make sure to look back and out over the verdant valleys that surround MSH. Views from the Bubble provide quite a bit of exposure for a crag that stands only 40 feet (or so) tall.
Directions: Take Hwy 29 north from Calistoga and follow signs for "Robert Louis Stevenson State Park," named after the famous author of 'Treasure Island' and 'Shipwrecked.' The author spent his honeymoon here and the park includes interesting memorials to his work. When you reach the prominent hikers' trailhead, park on the right and cross the street to begin up the one mile long trail that leads to a fire road. Make a left on the dirt fire road and the Bubble will be on your right in a manner of minutes.
South Bay Areas
Castle Rock State Park
Castle Rock State Park is home to some of the best sandstone bouldering in the United States. A large area with tons of boulder problems, a fair amount of bolted sport climbs, and some trad lines, Castle Rock in and of itself is enough material for an entire guidebook (of which there are several.)
Climbs here range from 10 foot boulders to 120 foot tall sport lines encompassing nearly every level of difficulty.
Directions: From San Francisco, take I-280 South to exit 24 Sand Hill Rd toward Menlo Park. Turn right on Portola Rd, left onto Ca-84W/La Honda Rd, and another left onto CA-35 S/Skyline Blvd. Approximate drive time is 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Fees: There is an $8 day use fee.
Special Note: Avoid climbing for several days (minimum should be two) after it has rained. The sandstone here is very fragile and critical holds on well loved problems have been known to break.
Pinnacles National Monument
Pinnacles National Monument is one of the most unique and adventurous of all the climbing areas in Northern California. Located along the San Andreas Fault near Soledad, Pinnacles is the former site of a once 8,000 foot volcano that has eroded and separated along the fault line over the last 23 million years. What remains are dozens (if not hundreds) of free standing spires of rock and rock faces up to 600 feet tall. Due to the erosion, and the very porous, almost conglomerate nature of the rock, the climbing here sports a great deal more objective danger than the perfect, clean granite of the Sierra Nevada range that makes California the envy of the world crack climbing scene. Loose rock, rock falls, questionable bolts, and a long tradition of ground up only first ascents means that it takes a special kind of climber to make Pinnacles a regular destination. That said, there are a number of well bolted, fantastically enjoyable sport climbs here for the fledgling leader, thus making Pinnacles a great destination for those looking to hone their skills while experiencing a great and unique location just over two hours from downtown San Francisco.
Climbing here began in the early 1930s. Famed conservationist and climber, David Brower began climbing here in the 1930s and according to guidebook author, Brad Young (A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument), Brower placed the first ever bolt on a rock climb in the United States here on Condor Crag in 1933.
Other famous climbers to put up first ascents in the Pinnacles include, Jim Bridwell, Steve Roper, Ax Nelson, John Salathe, Dick Leonard, Jim Beyer, and many more.
A note about the ground up ethic: In Pinnacles, all climbs were done first on lead, with the first ascentionists drilling bolts from stances. As a result of this ethic, many of the climbs feature runout sections or require slinging horns of rock for additional protection. There are very few cracks and so trad gear is usually not an available complement to the existing bolts. Additionally, because all rock at Pinnacles is to an extent friable, no single bolt should ever (here or anywhere else for that matter!) be entrusted with the climber's life. Further, many of the bolts remain from decades ago and finding 1/4" buttonheads with rusted out hangers or the old SMH hangars is not only probable, it is highly likely!
I've topped out on several climbs in Pinnacles only to find the fixed anchor bolts to be half-drilled, loose, 1/4" death jobs and had to downclimb to my last protection bolt and leave a locking biner or two to lower from. I've also had to once employ the "Pinnacles Rappel" which is a simul-rappel with your partner going off either side of a pinnacle with the rope running over the summit. I can tell you that this was not a 'pleasant' experience and one I'd prefer to never have to do again if I can help it!! Therefore, it pays to know as much as possible about your intended route before casting off on the sharp end.
Also, important to note is that under no circumstances whatsoever should anyone ever climb at pinnacles without a helmet (and this goes for both climber and belayer!!!!)
Recently I'd taken a friend from the east coast to Pinnacles for his first ever outdoor lead. I decided that Big Bad West (5.5) on the Pinnacles West Side would be ideal...well bolted, short (approx 40-50 feet), and aesthetically pleasing as the climb ascends out of a stream bed gully up a beautiful and distinct black water streak. As this climb is very popular, I assumed that most of the loose rock should have been dislodged by previous parties, and so I offered him my helmet (the only one in our possession at that moment) figuring it'd be more likely he'd need it in case of a fall than I would as the belayer. NOT SO! After dispatching the route without any trouble, he stepped back to be lowered and dislodged a microwave size block. Disintegrating as it fell, it rained six or seven grapefruit size blocks at my head. Stuck in the streambed I could only hold tightly on the belay and say an nondenomenational prayer for both of our lives! My prayes answered, we both survived unscathed but the obvious lesson was learned: DON'T EVEN THINK OF CLIMBING AT PINNACLES WITHOUT HELMENTS!!!!
Additionally, more experienced climbers who have a sense for how hangars should be tightened down (flush with the rock, never in a way that increases leverage on the bolt, etc) may wish to have 1/4" and 3/8" wreches on their rack should the climber reach a summit and find loose hangers on otherwise decent bolts.
Directions: From San Francisco, take 101-S all the way to Soledad. Exit onto 146 and follow the signs all the way to the West entrance station.
Fees: $5 per vehicle for a pass good for seven days. Annual passes are $15. All interagency national parks passes are accepted at the Monument.
Other: Falcon closures are common on some of the climbs in Pinnacles. For updated information re: closures visit either the National Park website at: http://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/advisory.htm or Clint Cummins' Friends of the Pinnacles website (also replete with great information about climbing and routes) at
http://pinnacles.org/climbing_info/index.html#closures.
Also worth checking out are the Balconies Caves. The caves require a headlamp or flashlight. The caves are relatively small, but are quite fun to explore.
Nearby: After climbing and on your way back to the 101, make sure to stop into the small Mexican food eatery and bakery. The tacos and burritos are amazing and very inexpensive!
Seasons: Often wet and mossy in the winter, and much too hot in the summer to climb. Best to climb here in the late Spring or early Fall.
Favorite climbs for beginners on the West Side include:
* Big Bad West (5.5). This is a 4 or 5 bolt climb to a three bolt anchor. Approach from the West Side Parking lot. BBW is located on the first slab encountered on the left hand side of the trail leading into Pinnacles from the parking lot. Belay out of the obvious stream bedc.
*** Corona (5.6). Approximately 90 feet of well protected slab climbing ending at belay chains. (Note: Please do not lower from the chains. Rappel from them to avoid unncessary and dangerous wear on the chains!!!) Approach up the climber's trail marked with a carabiner symbol from the main Balconies Caves Trail to Badman Mezzanine. After a short ascent, you will reach the rock face. The first climb on you see is Corona. To its left in the black water streak is Dos Equis (5.8 R).
* Walk the Plank (5.6) Chockstone Dome. The large rock over the start to the Balconies Caves. This route is appropriately named as the climb traverses left over a chasm, then heads up.
* Photographer's Delight (5.2). A free standing pinnacle of approx 25 ft. This route is high on the ridge along the High Peaks Trail and provides an opportunity for that once-in-a-lifetime photo of the climber standing on a very small needle point spire high above the base of the mountain. While the climb is only 25 ft, if appropriately cropped, it will make you look as though you've climbed 1800 ft up a tiny spire. (For those who like to brag and overstate their climbing achievements this is an ideal place to begin! ;)
* Costanoan (5.4). Three pitch route up the left skyline of The Citadel. Well bolted but with difficult(ish) descent down over 4th class terrain or several double-rope rappels.
East Bay Areas
Mt. Diablo State Park - Amazing Face
Mt. Diablo State Park offers excellent climbing on somewhat fragile, but smooth sandstone. Do not climb if it has rained in the last 48 hours as critical holds can break off after rains, and the rock is particularly seceptible to rope burns and scaring. Make sure to use long runners to extend anchors over the lip of climbs so as not to contribute to the grooves that the ropes of careless parties have left previously. Access has been an issue at Mt. Diablo in the past and careful and respectful use of the resource is critical to ensuring that climbing at Mt. Diablo remains legal.
Mt. Diablo State Park is home to the soaring two-peaked Mt. Diablo that at its highest stands at 3,864 ft. The park is 20,000 acres and offers several different climbing areas including both the adventurous Pine Canyon most easily reached from the North Entrance, and the ever popular Boy Scout Rocks accessed via the Southern Entrance.
One of the most popular routes in the area is The Amazing Face (5.9+) on Lower Boy Scout rocks. The Amazing Face is 90' and can be top roped off of several bolts.
To reach The Amazing Face, drive in the South Entrance (for more detailed driving directions, see below) and park at the Rock City parking lot. (Note: Do not leave climbing equipment or other valuables visible in your car!! There have been reports of break-ins in the past where climbers lost their entire racks.) From the Rock City parking lot, head downhill on the other side of the road from the parking area. You will find a trail near the picnic area. Take this trail to the right and after a quarter mile you will see The Amazing Face up on your right, which is easily identifiable given the two giant huecos on the lower portion of the climb. To reach the anchors head up behind the Face to the right. You will find a series of gullies leading to the top. The second and third gullies are both well suited to approaching the TR anchor.
The climb itself can be lead off of closely space bolts. You will need 10 quickdraws. Please note however that this climb is not a great beginners lead. While the bolts are spaced close together, the climbing itself is somewhat tenuous and sustained. A good idea for fledgling leaders who have an interest in giving the climb a go on the sharp end should probably mock-lead the climb first on top rope and then make a decision as to whether or not to start the climb from the ground up.
The climb begins below the first of two huecos. Head somewhat diagonally right as you climb higher. (Easiest to just follow the bolts.)
Other considerations: There is a $10 day use fee per vehicle. Also, Mt. Diablo is replete with Poison Oak. It lines both sides of the trail heading towards the Amazing Face and should be avoided at all costs!!!
Special care should be taken in the winter and fall when there are no leaves on the Poison Oak plant making it difficult to recognize. Your best bet is to make sure that no loose straps or other items in your position are hanging low or dragging and that you stay tightly to the middle of the path.
Directions to Mt. Diablo, Rock City: From the Oakland Bay Bridge, take I-80 E to CA-24/Hayward/Stockton. Once on CA-24, exit 15A onto I-680 S. Exit 40 for El Cerro Blvd. Continue straight onto Diablo Rd which becomes Mt. Diablo Scenic Blvd. Turn left on S Gate Rd and follow through the entrance station several miles to the pulloff for Rock City. From downtown SF, the drive time is approximately 45 minutes.
Lastly, please drive carefully (especially around switchbacks) once you begin climbing up Mt. Diablo towards Rock City. This narrow road is extremely popular with cyclists, who are often difficult to see when coming around curves in the road.
Remillard Park - Berkeley Hills
Also used by the Cragmont Climbing Club, this park is located a few blocks from Cragmont and has several very enjoyable top ropes, including several harder 5.10+-5.11 routes on the overhanging Plaque Rock. The Park was donated to the community by Lillian Remillard Dandini Di Cesena in memory of her family in November of 1963. The fixed anchors for top roping consist of bolts and a belay pole. All fixed anchors are reached with short and easy scrambles.
The redish-brown rock found at Remillard Park is slightly different from that found at nearby Indian Rock and Cragmont. It is full of huecos (pockets in the rock) including several monodoights that are fairly sharp. That said, there are several fantastic beginner's climbs here on the main and higher rocks and this park is a favorite bay area crag.
Also enjoyable is a low bouldering traverse that starts at the left end of the main rock and heads right and up into the gully between the main wall and plaque rock. As always, have fun and be safe!
Directions: From the Marin Avenue Traffic circle, continue up Marin Avenue and turn right on Hilldale Avenue. Turn left on Poppy Lane. The rock will be on the right. Parking is available along the street.
Special Considerations: There are no bathrooms or water sources available at the rock. The closest available are downhill at Cragmont Park. There are no usage fees at this park. Usually in the shade, the area can remain wet for long periods of time. It helps to bring a square of carpet to clean off shoes before climbing and a tarp to set the rope on to keep your rope clean.
Main Face (Left) and Plaque Rock (Right)
Cragmont - Berkeley Hills
Cragmont plays a pivotal role in the history of American rock climbing. In the early 1930’s Dick Leonard, Jules Eichorn, and Bestor Robinson began practicing rope technique at Cragmont as well as other Berkeley crags, Indian Rock and Remillard Park. On March 13, 1932, these men formed the Cragmont Climbing Club which later that year was merged with the Sierra Club’s new Rock Climbing Section, commonly known as the RCS. These climbers developed many new techniques including the hip belay and the dynamic belay. On Labor Day weekend, 1933, these Cragmont climbers accompanied by companions of the RCS, traveled to Yosemite Valley where they became the first climbers to ever use rope in Yosemite. Eichorn, Robinson, and Leonard reached Lunch Ledge, an almost nondescript ledge 1000 feet above the Valley floor on Washington Column. This and their later first ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire in 1934 would change the nature of American and world rock climbing forever.
Directions: From I-80, take Buchanan Street exit. Follow Buchanan until it becomes Marin. After you reach the traffic circle, continue on Marin a few more blocks to a right turn on Regal Rd. The park will be on the right hand side. The rock faces are down a short hill on the left side of the park. Parking is available along the street but is somewhat limited. Due to this and the park’s popularity as a beginner’s area, it is wise to come early on weekends or on weekdays if possible.
Special Considerations: The park has a water fountain and restroom. Be advised however that the stone restroom is notoriously dirty. On recent trips, a clean portable toilet has been available at the entrance to the park. There are no fees at this park.
Reaching the Bolts: Two- and three-bolt anchors are available at the top of each climb. The bolts are reached by stepping over a short rock wall located above the climbs. The ledge is spacious although somewhat slopping. If the slope makes you nervous, there are several trees which you can anchor yourself to with webbing or cordelette while you set the top rope. These trees should also be used as back-up anchors.
Indian Rock & Mortar Rock - Berkeley Hills
Boasting great views out across the Bay to the SF city skyline and the Golden Gate Bridge, Indian Rock is one of the Bay Area's best places to boulder.
Climbers have been using Indian Rock and nearby crags, Cragmont and Remillard Park, as training grounds for the greater challenges in Yosemite and beyond for almost 100 years.
Famed climbers and innovators, Dick Leonard, David Brower, Jules Eichorn, and Bestor Robinson practiced belay and rappelling techniques at Cragmont and Indian Rock before heading to Yosemite to do the first big climb in the Valley, Higher Cathedral Spire. Other locals including Allen Steck, Galen Rowell, and John Sherman (inventor of the V-scale) honed their skills here.
The rock is volanic in origin, specifically rhyolite. It is sharp in places and smooth in others where thousands of chalked hands have smoothed the surfaces of many of the holds over the past decades.
There are dozens of routes, ranging from easy to very difficult. The area offers shorter problems for beginners along the front of the rock facing the road. In 'The Pit' on the downhill side of the rock, climbers will be presented with high balls that verge on free solos. Extreme caution should be used here. There is no shame in sticking to the shorter climbs or traverses, preferring to rope up for higher climbs elsewhere. While an old belay pole exists at the top of The Pit, it is a very high traffic area and climbers seem to (and perhaps should given the local prevailing etiquette) avoid bogarting the rock by heading to nearby Cragmont or Remillard to rope up. There is an overhang in the Pit that can be roped with two new Metolius bolts and the I-boulder wedged high above the Pit can be roped with a single bolt (beware that in climbing, as in soldiering, '2 is 1, and 1 is none'!!!)
Across the street from Indian Rock there is a 10-14 foot tall wall that runs about 30 feet horizontally. Often overlooked by visiting climbers, this little outcrop can provide hours of fun given the very small, almost micro holds, the lack of defined routes, and the tenuous nature of the climbing. One way to make great use of this spectacular little crag is to play H-O-R-S-E or similar games with a partner, inventing variatons on the fly and tempting your climbing partner(s) to follow in your footsteps. Another good exercise here is to traverse the rock right and left focusing on footwork and endurance. Lastly, there is a small(ish) overhang at the far end of the rock that allows a boulderer a fun challenge without having to fear a long or painful fall.
A few hundred yards up the road from Indian Rock is Mortar Rock. This area features very difficult problems including the famed Nat's Traverse (V8).
Mortar Rock
Getting There: From I-80 East, take the Buchanan Street exit, which becomes Marin Avenue. Follow Marin Avenue to the Arlington Circle (a traffic circle). Exit right onto Indian Rock Avenue where the park will appear on your left within approximately 200 yards.
Considerations: There are no restrooms at Indian Rock Park. The area is nestled in the middle of a neighborhood, so please help to maintain positive relations by avoiding cursing, littering, and general shenanigans while climbing here. There are several trashcans at the park, and a good water fountain on the front side of the rock facing the road. Parking is available along the street, although one should come early on weekends to ensure a spot and to avoid the crowds. The park is often most enjoyable for doing a quick circuit in the evenings after work where one will see neighborhood residents and visitors picnicking atop the rock or just taking in the sunset.
Nearby: Within a few short blocks are both Cragmont and Remillard parks which are great places for beginners and intermediate climbers to rope up. On San Pablo Avenue (approx 10 minute drive) there are many local eateries. And while the venerable Wilderness Exchange store closed last year, the Berkeley REI store is located along San Pablo in the nearby vicinity of the old WE should one forget or run-out of chalk, decide they finally need to invest in a crash pad, etc.
Have fun and be safe and remember that climbing is inherently dangerous. Bringing along a nice sturdy crash pad, experienced and attentive spotters, and your game face will all contribute to having a safe and fun experience but provide no guarantee against injury or worse. Climb at your own risk, and use your head!
Downtown San Francisco Areas
Beaver Street Wall
Beaver Street Wall is located in the heart of downtown San Francisco just blocks off of Market Street near the Castro neighborhood. BSW features a very unique, glasslike face offering four top rope routes with the main crack line being a highly enjoyable 5.9 or 5.10- depending on your route guide.
The crux of all four climbs is in the first 15 feet or so. Afterwards all climbs converge at the main crack line, which doesn't require jamming as it offers many individual ledges and holds on the edges of the crack.
The rock surface is incredibly slick making smearing almost impossible. A variation that starts to the right of the main crack line offers climbers a chance to do some very tenuous and balancy moves up the mirror surface of the face. This is perhaps only 5.9 or low 5.10 also, so if you are having trouble, keep trying! You will eventually find the just right sequence of linking tiny rugosities to rejoin with the main crack line and cruise to the anchors.
To set up a top rope here, walk back out and turn right on Beaver Street. Head up the street past several houses to the concrete steps on your right. Follow the steps up and then past tennis courts. There will be a trail on your right. Follow this trail up and right until you reach a chainlink fence that guards unwitting pedestrians from falling down the face. VERY CAREFULLY climb over the fence and use either the chains or the concrete fence post to rig a top rope anchor. A single 21 foot length of cordelette works nicely for this anchor, as would tied off slings of similar length. I prefer to use the concrete block as opposed to the chains, but each climber is responsible for making their own assessment regarding the current condition of the chains and/or concrete block. If either or both look deteriorated or unsafe, DO NOT USE THEM! (As always, climb at your own risk!!!)
Note: I've mock-lead the crack line looking for gear placements and found that this would be a very challenging and runout lead. Most of the opportunities for gear offered openings for only very small stopper placements.
Have fun and be safe!
