Cragmont - Berkeley Hills, East Bay

Cragmont plays a pivotal role in the history of American rock climbing. In the early 1930’s Dick Leonard, Jules Eichorn, and Bestor Robinson began practicing rope technique at Cragmont as well as other Berkeley crags, Indian Rock and Remillard Park. On March 13, 1932, these men formed the Cragmont Climbing Club which later that year was merged with the Sierra Club’s new Rock Climbing Section, commonly known as the RCS. These climbers developed many new techniques including the hip belay and the dynamic belay. On Labor Day weekend, 1933, these Cragmont climbers accompanied by companions of the RCS, traveled to Yosemite Valley where they became the first climbers to ever use rope in Yosemite. Eichorn, Robinson, and Leonard reached Lunch Ledge, an almost nondescript ledge 1000 feet above the Valley floor on Washington Column. This and their later first ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire in 1934 would change the nature of American and world rock climbing forever.

Directions: From I-80, take Buchanan Street exit. Follow Buchanan until it becomes Marin. After you reach the traffic circle, continue on Marin a few more blocks to a right turn on Regal Rd. The park will be on the right hand side. The rock faces are down a short hill on the left side of the park. Parking is available along the street but is somewhat limited. Due to this and the park’s popularity as a beginner’s area, it is wise to come early on weekends or on weekdays if possible.

Special Considerations: The park has a water fountain and restroom. Be advised however that the stone restroom is notoriously dirty. On recent trips, a clean portable toilet has been available at the entrance to the park. There are no fees at this park.

Reaching the Bolts: Two- and three-bolt anchors are available at the top of each climb. The bolts are reached by stepping over a short rock wall located above the climbs. The ledge is spacious although somewhat slopping. If the slope makes you nervous, there are several trees which you can anchor yourself to with webbing or cordelette while you set the top rope. These trees should also be used as back-up anchors.


Approach wall to anchors