Knots for Climbers

Knots for Climbers

Knots are the key to safely enjoying higher adventures. A climber need not know every last knot in existence, but should understand all of the basic knots (how they work, what they are used for, limitations, etc) and be able to tie them quickly and routinely from memory. The following passage will provide information on a wide variety of knots. Some of the more advanced knots will probably not prove necessary for the average weekend top rope climb. They have been provided anyway as a reference. Practicing the basic knots until they become almost second nature is absolutely essential.

Overhand Knot


The overhand knot is most commonly used as a backup knot to tie off loose ends of rope after tying a knot such as a double fisherman’s or ring bend.

Bends: Bends are knots that join two free ends of rope.

Double Overhand Knot



The double overhand knot is the same as the overhand but uses two ropes. It is often use to attach two ropes together for a rappel. It is not the most secure knot used for joining two ropes together, but it has a low profile which keeps the rope from getting caught when being pulled down after rappelling. It should not be used by the weekender as a primary method for attaching two ropes. Nevertheless, it is worth knowing should you leave the Berkeley Crags for the East Face of Lhotse Shar.

Square Knot




The square knot is also used to join two free ends together for rappel or to finish off a coil of rope. The square knot is often finished off with two overhand knots to secure the loose ends. This is still not the preferred method, as a Figure Eight with Fisherman’s Backups is the most bomber and worthy knot for attaching two ropes together for a long top rope, but is good to know nonetheless. (Note: Figure Eight w/ Fisherman's Backup is pictured below. The reason this is not typically used for dobule rope rappels, etc is because of the large size of the knot. The larger the knot, the greater the likelihood that the rope will become stuck or lodged in a crack when trying to pull the ropes down. Regardless, if double rope top-roping, this is the preferred not (at least in my humble opinion.)




Fisherman’s Knot



The fisherman’s knot is used to join to ropes together. It is seldom used now that the double fisherman’s knot has taken its place, but it helps to first understand the single fisherman’s knot before tying a double fisherman’s. To tie, simply create two overhand knots that encircle the other rope and pull the two ropes tight.

Double Fisherman’s Knot



The double fisherman’s knot is the most common way to secure two ropes together for rappelling and is also the preferred knot for creating a loop of cordelette. To tie a double fisherman’s knot, simply pass the loose end of rope twice around the other rope before tying the overhand knot.


Water Knot (or Ring Bend)



The water knot is used to create a loop in webbing and is used very frequently to construct top rope anchors. To tie a water know, simply make an overhand knot in the end of piece of webbing and then re-thread the other end back through the overhand knot in the opposite direction of the first. After pulling tight the water knot, make sure to put a back up knot on each side. This is particular important as water knots can come loose. When climbing on webbing that is tied off with a water knot, periodically check to make sure that the knot has not loosened in any way.



Bights: Bights are loops of rope that do not cross themselves. A bight is gained by pulling a loop of rope from the standing end or middle of the rope.

Figure Eight on a Bight



The Figure Eight on a Bight is very useful for tying into anchor points and has the advantage of being easy to untie even after weighted.

Hitches:Hitches are knots that grip other objects such as a tree or another rope. Without the object that the hitch knot grips, the hitch knot would not exist.

Clove Hitch



The clove hitch is a quick and simple knot for clipping into a carabiner attached to an anchor. The advantage of a clove hitch is that it makes it easy to adjust the length of the anchor rig or rope without having to untie a knot or unclip from the anchor.

Girth Hitch

\

The girth hitch is a very simple knot that is commonly used to secure webbing around a tree, horn or flake of rock (careful with this!), or to any other object.

Munter Hitch



The munter hitch can be used to belay another climber with just a carabiner, although it requires a pear shaped or HMS carabiner. The munter hitch is a reasonably secure way to belay or rappel in the case that a belay device is lost. This will likely only come into play on longer climbs and is not often necessary for beginning climbers. An ATC or GriGri is preferred.

Prusik Knot



A prusik knot is made up of a girth hitch followed by several wraps of the cord around the rope the prusik knot is hitching to. Once tied, the smaller diameter cord used for the prusik knot creates friction against the climbing rope. Two prusik knots clipped into by two slings provides a climber with a very effective way to climb up the rope. The prusik knot is frequently used during rescues to lower or raise injured climbers. Metal jumars have largely taken the place of prusik knots for jugging lines during big wall climbs or multi-day ascents and during solo climbs.