Joshua Tree - Bouldering

There are literally thousands of boulder problems in Joshua Tree National Park. There are a number of guidebooks covering this vast array, including some of the less expensive self-published variety available at the climbing shop located at the corner of Park Boulevard and CA-__ on your way into the Park via the West Entrance.

In the meantime, the below suggestions are personal favorites of the author and also some of the more popular and better known Joshua Tree classics. Print this out with you on your next trip and use it as your guide to find some of the true gems. This will get you into the right areas and then from there, why not forget about the ratings, and spend the day discovering and exploring the embarrassment of riches that is JTree Bouldering.

Sharp and large grained, Joshua Tree's monzonite granite will rip your fingers to shreds but also provide great smearing and the feeling that you won't slip off unless you blow-out or decide to let go. Save bouldering for the end of your trip if you plan to do a fair amount of lead climbing on your visit, as your fingers may take several days to recover.

Hidden Valley Campground Area:

1. Caveman 2. Stem Gem 3. Hensel Boulder 4. Direction of The Outback 5. To Pinhead

Located in the campground itself are a dozen or more classic bouldering problems. Note however that it is customary to ask permission before trying Boulder problems located within others' campsites. This is an issue even with such classics as the appropriately named Stem Gem (V4), an improbable and shallow corner that sits in the back of a popular campsite.

Other favorite problems in HVCG include:

Caveman

Caveman (V6): This route tunnels under a boulder providing honey-combed rails along its roof. It is long and pumpy, but fun even for beginning boulders to play around on considering the jug-like holds. Try working different sections for an enjoyable workout even if sending the whole thing in a push is out of your range.

Hensel Boulder: Offers several different micro-hold problems on a steep slab. Routes range from V0-V3. This boulder is located along the main one-way road through the campground in the vicinity of campsite 18.

Pinhead Boulder:

Pinhead Boulder viewed from The Wall

Located on the other side of The Wall (outer loop of HVCG), the Pinhead Boulder sits in the open desert approximately 50 yards from the Wall. Its main feature is a fantastic 15' thin crack to mantel problem called Pinhead (VO) that is a great way to learn fingerlocks. The downclimbs for this boulder are located on the easy backside allowing those newer to bouldering a nice introduction to medium height problems without the difficult descent. Other problems here that are enjoyable include Holenoid (V0+) which climbs out of and above a large circular hole in the rock, the arete to the left of Pinhead, and also the face just right of the arete left of Pinhead. There are V-easy problems on the blocky and patina face to the right of Pinhead.

Pinhead (VO)

The Outback


Behind HVCG to the East lies The Outback. A five minute walk from the campground leads out into a rectangular opening surrounded by larger rock formations. In its midst are dozens of really fun bouldering problems. Look for patina faces, aretes, and cracks. Great problems of all difficulty abound in the Outback. Rather than detail each specifically, below are a few photos to whet the boulderer's appetite. This is one of those places where a guidebook might only distract the pad-carrying wanderer from finding his or her personal problems (...or solutions as the case may hopefully be!)

Hobbit Hole Offwidth (V0-)

Dino's Egg

Chuckawalla (V1 or V6 w/SDS)

The Manx Boulders:

Meat Substitute (V2)

Located behind the Cyclops Formation which lies 1/4 mile South of HVCG, the Manx Boulders consist of two large rectangular blocks of rock with a variety of problems on all sides. Approximately 15' tall there are a number of arete and face problems. Downclimb by using the notch chimney located between the two formations.

Quail Springs

Located at Trashcan Rock there are a number of fun problems located around the backside next to the large parking area. Additionally, there is a very popular boulder traverse low to the ground called The Gripper Traverse (V0). The Gripper is a personal favorite way to end a trip to Joshua Tree as its right next to Park Blvd and is a nice way to get a good final pump on before driving the 9+ hours back to the Bay Area.

The Chocolate Boulders

The Chocolate Boulders

Located directly below The Negropolis sit a collection of chocolatey-brown boulders offering a number of easy routes that make for a great warm up bouldering circuit upon arriving in Joshua Tree. Park in a small dirt pullout across the road from The Negropolis. There is a faint trail marked with a sign for The Chocolate Boulders. Locate this before trudging across the fragile desert leaving braided trails while unsuccessfully searching around this area. The marked path will lead you right to these beauties. Problems here range from V0-V4. Note: If unfamiliar, you can identify The Negropolis from the road by its large smooth brown faces which stand out in contrast to the rubble surrounding them high up on a ridge. This area is approximately 3 miles from the Park's West Entrance.