Consumnes River Gorge

Located near Placerville, approximately one hour South of Lake Tahoe, Consumnes River Gorge offers great climbing on superb granite. The area includes dozens of routes including short trad cracks, bolted-top ropes, face climbs, and on the Guttenberger Wall located on the opposite side of the river (pictured above) there are several multipitch lines that can be led as sport routes (if you don't mind 30 foot run-outs between protection) that can also be supplemented with trad gear. Be very careful crossing the river. People have drowned here, especially during high water times such as late winter/early spring.

Directions: From US-50 E heading towards South Lake Tahoe, take exit 44A for Missouri Flat Rd. Left onto Pleasant Valley Rd and then a right onto Bucks Bar Rd. Head downhill on Bucks Bar Rd until you see dirt pullouts on both the right and left sides of the road. If you reach a bridge, you've gone just a mile or so too far. From the pullout on the right hand side of the road, pick up an obvious trail and follow this down to the top of Buck's Bar Dome. A vast majority of the routes are located on this dome. Continue straight ahead to pick up a trail that switchbacks down to the base of the Dome.

The first prominent climb you will come to is Dinkum (5.9) the crack route pictured below.

Bolted anchors are standard here, so top-roping is very accessible, especially on the Beginner's Cracks. For other routes, the bolts may be somewhat difficult to reach either because they are positioned over the sloping lip of the dome or because they are atop formations that can only be accessed via 4th to 5th class terrain. For climbs such as Dinkum, a tree on the top of the dome can be used to rap down to the bolts from where a top rope may be set-up. That said, the tree is not of a very large diameter and we would absolutely not suggest using this as a climbing anchor!

This is a great area to practice leading on trad gear, but be warned some larger pieces are necessary for a number of routes here. Bring along your #4 and #5 cams (or a friend who owns them!)




Other Considerations: This area is somewhat popular with locals who use the river here as a swimming hole. In summer, this area which has limited tree cover can be very hot, and its really tempting (and fun) to have a swim following a sweaty day of climbing. Again though, be very careful as the water's surface, while seemingly still in the late summer/early autumn months, may be masking faster moving currents below.