Located just off Hwy 1 near the town of Jenner at the mouth of the Russian River lies Goat Rock State Beach. Here sits the iconic Goat Rock which is a massive formation located just off shore, connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of sand and rock. The rock strikes most new visitors as being somehow familiar, and if you have seen the movie, The Goonies, it should be as this beach is the location of the film's final scene.
Another prominent formation off this beach is Arched Rock , a beautiful soaring arch that is the result of waves collapsing out a section of this sea stack. Both it, and Goat Rock, make for excellent photos so remember to bring your camera!
Turning off into Goat Rock State Beach find a large dirt pullout on the left and park here to hike down and left into a large meadow. Here, high above the ocean sit two 30' rocks called the Sunset Boulders. The area offers mostly top-rope routes with several climbs rated in the 5.10 range as well as a few more easier routes including one 5.2, a 5.7, and a 5.8.
The rocks sit in an open meadow perhaps 60 feet above the Pacific Ocean and the location is simply stunning. It can be windy so make sure to layer up, but catch it on a sunny day and it is blissful.
Approach the anchors for all climbs by soloing up a 30' 5.2. It is replete with ledges and is often performed with nary a mention by experienced climbers. Those new to top-roping though should be advised that reaching the anchors is non-trivial and should either bring along a more experienced partner, or should factor in the possibility that a visit here with the intention to rope up may end up resulting in just a bouldering trip (so be sure to bring along your crashpad!)
Favorite Routes:
Pelican Arete (5.10a TR): Pelican Arete is the prominent arete located on the boulder nearest the parking area on the sea facing side. This route is perhaps the most popular at this crag and is sometimes bouldered (I would not advise this!) The crux is approximately 10' off the ground and the sequence is somewhat tricky. Some climbers find good holds around the right side of the arete that are used to supplement what can be slippery footwork and limited hands on the face.
Sunset Face (5.9ish, 3 bolt anchor TR): Climb up the slabby North face of Sunset Rock. There are several variations here and this is fun to run laps on - try eliminating certain holds or taking the route more right or left.
Bouldering:
The bouldering is really fun albeit somewhat limited. There are nearly a dozen problems, mostly in the easy to moderate range with the standout being Sunset Traverse (V2) which is located on the opposite rock next to The Pelican Arete. It is a long and pumpy traverse that can be climbed in either direction (I find the right to left variation easier for whatever that's worth.) Even if coming to top rope, plan to take a few extra minutes trying out this areas various boulder problems.
Directions: From San Francisco, cross the Golden Gate Bridge and follow 101 North Hwy 1 North towards Sonoma. Take exit 479 for Railroad Avenue and head W. Take your 2nd right onto Stony Point Rd, left onto Roblar Rd, right onto Valley Ford Rd which becomes CA-1 N/Shoreline Hwy. Follow this until you reach Goat Rock Rd. Make a left and find the dirt pullout on the left with the rocks visible from the road. Approximate driving time is 1 hour and 45 minutes. Alternatively, climbers can take Hwy 1 for the entire duration and see the coast and stop of in Point Reyes. That said, if only going to climb at Goat Rock State Beach, the 101 is much more efficient.
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