Training for Endurance

Training for Endurance

There is nothing better to improve your ability to climb, and specifically lead, longer routes than good old fashioned cardio - running, spinning, hitting the stairmaster, or rowing. But if you, like many climbers, just can't seem to get into these usually monotonous activities then don't despair, there are alternatives.

One way to build endurance is to target one session a week in the climbing gym as an endurance day. On this day, the goal should be mileage not difficulty. Which is to say, you should do as many routes as possible regardless of rating but without falling into the trap of creating bad habits by climbing so fast, or routes so easy, that you allow that carefully honed technique of yours to devolve into a flailing vertical sprint. Instead go one or two grades below your normal onsight max and climb as many of these as possible in good style. A good time to do this workout is after you've been throwing yourself at harder projects for a few days and are feeling frustrated at your inability to climb at your limit. Rather than be frustrated, take this time to work on your endurance.

On this day, find a climbing partner who is on the same page, and take turns roping up in an area where three climbs are available on the same top-rope all at a reasonable level of difficulty, and climb each route back-to-back without rest. Swap turns and continue on around the gym in this fashion. To increase the difficulty, try to downclimb each route with your belayer providing enough slack to allow this to be smooth, but not so much as to invite dangerous swings or falls.

Another great way to build endurance is to find an open area of the gym and work long traverses low to the ground paying careful attention not to climb under or through other climbers. If you must step off the wall, do so only briefly. Shake out, and continue where you left off, setting a goal to do one whole side of the gym for example. And remember, don't sacrifice your form or technique!

It also helps to practice finding creative resting opportunities while on climbs. This will allow you to feel more comfortable when outdoors on lead when you need to reduce the pumped feeling so that you can continue on safely. For example, when approaching a crux on a climb in the gym, look to see if you can't use a knee bar in a corner, or a good no hands balanced rest on two good feet holds. Next time you are feeling pumped in the gym, rather than just letting go and hanging on the rope, see if you can't alternate hands and shake out each one individually before continuing on. When it comes to endurance it pays to use your head as well as your heart and lungs.

Finally, an overall fitness program using light weights with a high number of repetitions will increase your body's ability to climb longer with less overall strain.

Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park

Lembert Dome

Located North of Yosemite Valley along Tioga Road (Rte 120) lies the incomparably beautiful Tuolumne Meadows. Through the meadow runs the Tuolumne River which flows down to the Hetch Hetchy reservoir. On either side of the river are dozens of beautiful and soaring domes offering incredible face and crack climbing. The ethic which dictated the placing of bolts on lead (often hand drilling from marginal stances) has rendered nearly every climb run-out and as such, not suitable for most beginning leaders. There are a number of really enjoyable options for top-roping and also some shorter trad leads that offer good protection on moderately rated climbs, as well as great mountaineering adventures such as the Matthes Ridge Crest. There is also world class hiking including the ever-popular trek up to the top of prominent Lembert Dome.

Tuolumne Meadows is located at approximately 8,600’ of elevation and as such receives a tremendous amount of snow, leaving the road closed and the Meadows inaccessible for all but a few months of the year (unless you have a strong heart, healthy lungs, and a good pair of cross-country skis!) The pass is typically open from June through late September, although the opening and closing dates for Tioga Road vary dramatically depending on the amount of snow fall during the winter.

Camping: The Tuolumne Meadows Campground contains 304 sites that each include a fire ring, picnic table, and bear box. There is a bathroom with potable water, but there are no showers. The cost is $20/night for single campsites (up to 6 people maximum) or $40/night for group campsites (13-30 people). Half of the campground is based on the reservation system. To make reservations call 877.444.6777 or visit the national parks website. The other half of the campsite is available on a first-come, first-served basis.

Other amenities: Tuolumne Meadows Ledge also has 69 tent cabins much like those found in Curry Village in the Valley. One difference however is that each cabin has its own wood burning stove which can add to the fun of sleeping at elevation. There is a restaurant at the Lodge that serves a delicious assortment of pasta and proteins. It is always a pleasure to dine here as the restaurant – making use of their limited space – seats guests together with other visitors at the same table. This has led to many fascinating and unique conversations with visitors from all over the world. For reservations, visit the park’s website or call 877.444.6777.

Favorite Adventures:



Lembert Dome: Most reasonably fit visitors to Tuolumne Meadows aspire to hike to the top of Lembert Dome which sits high over the Meadows at 9,450 feet. If just arriving from the Bay Area, many visitors will feel the altitude immediately upon beginning this hike. It is necessary to drink a lot of water to offset the effects of the altitude caused dehydration. Additionally, take your time and possibly save this for the second day of your visit (if staying overnight in Tuolumne) to allow yourself time to acclimate. The hike is approximately 2.8 miles round trip and gains approximately 800 feet. Approach this hike by parking at the base of Lembert Dome in a large designated parking area. From here, follow signs and trails as the path wraps around the backside of Lembert bringing you up to the low angle shoulder. From here it is a short hike to the base of a summit block that requires a bit of scrambling and is somewhat unnecessary for those just seeking the excellent views from the crest out over the Meadows. That said, this is a climbing website, and we advise hikers to carefully make their way to the very top! As an alternative, try ascending the 3rd Class South Face (facing the parking lot). It requires a bit of tricky route-finding to navigate up the dome in the safest and easiest fashion, but it is done frequently and is an interesting and unique challenge!

Pothole Dome

Pothole Dome: Pothole Dome is located just off Hwy 120 with an obvious pullout on the left hand side of the road only a mile or two past Tenaya Lake. Park here and ascend the steep flanks using friction and a few hand holds to scramble to the top of the Dome. This provides a reasonably safe, but very fun and different adventure. The scramble from the car to the top takes but 20 minutes or so and therefore is something that shouldn’t be missed when visiting Tuolumne! On the back left side of the dome if facing it from the parking area are two bolted anchors (shiny new ¾’’ Metolius Bolts with rap rings) to set up top ropes on the steeper slab face on this side. Pay special attention to the remarkable geological record left on Pothole Dome. Here one can see many glacial erratics (free standing boulders on the top of a dome) left behind by the glaciers that covered these domes. Also left behind are the potholes from which the dome takes its name (obviously!) The potholes are formed by rocks that were ground into the rock in depressions caused by water and then torqued around by the pressure of the moving glacier.

Puppy Dome: Located just west of the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, Puppy Dome offers a few nice trad lines (most of which can be top roped via an easy walk-up) and some of the best bouldering in Tuolumne. Skirt around the base of the Dome to the West where you will see a great thin splitter crack (5.8ish) that goes for about 50 feet and can be top-roped from above off of trees or led on trad gear (a really good if not slightly stiff beginner’s trad lead.) Continue past this line to located the obvious boulder problems that sit adjacent to the river. Above and on the dome’s south face are a number of classic climbs including Do or Fly (5.11c). On Puppy Dome’s North Face is an excellent long and pumpy boulder traverse that goes at perhaps V1 and is an excellent climb.


Unnamed Splitter Crack

Tenaya Lake: Rest along the banks of Tenaya Lake in the Summer, take out a canoe or kayak on its crystal clear waters, go for a swim if you don’t mind the frigid temperatures, or if you’re lucky and visit at the end of the season while the pass is still open, go ice-skating!


Tenaya Lake with Ice - Jan 2012

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

Located 15 miles off the Las Vegas strip is the U-shaped corridor of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (or just 'Red Rocks' for short).

The climbing here features both well-protected sport climbs and multi-pitch trad routes up crimson and white sand stone.

Geology: Soaring up to 3,000', Red Rocks is the product of fractured faults and fossilized sand dunes, leaving both limestone and Aztec sandstone. Interspersed amongst the red sandstone are bands of white, creating a visual paradise, with the reddish color resulting from iron oxide (rust).


Climbing Information: Popular sport climbing is located at Calico Hills (pictured above) and Sandstone Quarry. For trad climbs, ahead to the Brass Wall and Necromancer Wall. For multi-pitch climbs head to Eagle Wall, Aeolian Wall, Mescalito, and Solar Slab Wall. Multi-day big wall aid climbs can be found on Rainbow Wall (pictured below.) The sport climbs at Calico Hills tend to be well protected. Additionally, many multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks include bolted belays for quick changeovers and secure anchors, thus making some of the easier multi-pitch routes ideal for beginning leaders.


For more information on specific routes or to purchase a guidebook, head to Desert Rock Sports just outside the Red Rocks Conservation Area at 8221 W Charleston Blvd, Tomsik Plaza, Las Vegas, NV 89117. The shop also rents bouldering pads which is great news for those visiting Red Rocks via flight into Las Vegas. The cost at last look was $15/day.

Directions: From the Las Vegas Strip, use I-15 S to exit 34 for I-215W toward Henderson. Take Exit 26 for Charleston Blvd (west). Turn right onto Scenic Loop Drive.

Favorite Climbs:

The Hamlet: Located off the First Pullout, The Hamlet offers easy to moderate sport climbing up glowing red sandstone. The rocks is peppered with black varnished sections offering many positive hand and footholds. The area is somewhat new, so watch for loose rock, and always wear a helmet!



Approach: Locate The Hamlet by parking at the First Pullout and hiking downhill on the obvious trail. Once at the large wash, turn left and hike uphill until you reach the top. The Hamlet will be across from you with a large incut face/left angling arch and patches of black varnish. Hike down and left back to where you can cross the wash and up to the base of the wall. (See beta photo.)

Climbs Left to Right on the wall are as follows:

The Play's the Thing (5.easy): 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rappel rings. This is a very low angle face that would make for an excellent beginner's lead. It's also a good place to practice cleaning and rappeling as the rappel bolts are located on a very nice and wide ledge. Note: The belayer can clip a low bolt at the start of the route to protect from tumbling down a short blocky area should the leader fall.

Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone (5.7): 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Excellent climbing up fun, positive holds. Angle up and left past several bolts to a blank section. Pull up over a bulge using high steps and head past two final bolts to the anchor. May be a touch easier than 5.7.



Sweets to the Sweet (5.7): 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This climb is a step-up in difficulty from 'Frailty.' That said, it is also a strictly fun moderate with two small crux sections mid-way up the climb. Our personal favorite route at The Hamlet.

When the Blood Burns (5.10a): This is a top rope only route.

Sea of Troubles (5.9): 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This is a nice route that starts in a chimney, goes up past a bulge, and then climbs up through easier terrain to the anchors.

Below and to the right are several top-rope routes ranging from 5.6-5.8. The bolts are found below and right of Sea of Troubles. I haven't climbed these Top Rope routes, but they look aesthetic and fun.

The Panty Wall:



To the right of The Hamlet is the black varnished Panty Wall. The Pany Wall offers well protected sport routes ranging from 5.6-5.12, with several classic 5.7 and 5.8 routes. The Panty Wall is more popular than The Hamlet and can be crowded depending on the time of day and season.



Note: The Scenic Loop Drive is 13 miles long and is one-way. Calico Hills (sport climbing) is located just after turning onto the loop road on the right. Do not drive too fast or miss a stop or you will be forced to take the entire loop to get back to the start. While only 13 miles, RVs and gawkers can make this a slog. Take your time and plan ahead so you don't miss out on some of Red Rocks' excellent climbing!

Tommy Caldwell on The Dawn Wall, El Capitan, YNP, USA

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgenson have undertaken one of the most ambitious climbing projects ever conceived - to free climb El Capitan's Dawn Wall. Tommy began the project in 2007 and enlisted highball boulderer and Bishop denizen, Jorgenson, soon thereafter to share in the project.

The climb includes 7 pitches of 5.14 and 7 pitches of 5.13 amongst a total of 28 pitches, and wanders across the Dawn Wall connecting parts of Mescalito, Adrift, Reticent, and Warren Harding's famed Wall of the Early Morning Light.

The scale, difficulty, and sustained nature of the project is mind-boggling.

Tommy recently shared on his blog that he'd used a modified CrossFit workout to help train for the project. It's called 'Cindy' and is a routine whereby you do as many sets of 5 pull-ups, 10 pushups, and 15 situps as you can in 20 minutes. Tommy was able to do 26 sets in the alloted time...

How many can you do???

Favorite Hikes & Bikes: Bay Area

Batteries to Bluffs Trail (0.7 miles): Begin at the Golden Gate Bridge and hike South until you reach the Batteries and Bluffs trail(about a quarter of a mile).You will be hiking above North Baker Beach (aka Marshall's Beach) which is a somewhat popular nude beach. The descent to the beach along the Batteries to Bluffs trail used to be a bit more fun as it was steep and rugged. Wooden planks and stairs were installed in 2007 as part of a large renovation project that also included the removal of trees for the nefarious purpose of 'historic view preservation', but I digress. You can descend all the way to the beach (optional) or continue along until you the trail meets back up with the road.



Land's End Trail (~3 miles): From Baker Beach, take steps at the Southern end of the beach up into the majestic Sea Cliff neighborhood. From here walk through the neighborhood keeping as close to the coast as possible. An amazing and eclectic assortment of homes here provide a feast for the eyes until you are back on the trail. At the end of the neighborhood you will run into the sign for the Land's End Trail. Take this trail all the way to Sutros Baths and Ocean Beach for amazing views out over the Pacific Ocean, the Marin Headlands, and the Golden Gate Bridge. The trail is mostly flat with a few steeper sections that are outfitted with wooden stairs. There is also an optional turnoff down to Mile Rock Beach.



I highly recommend this! The stairs lead down to the beach itself and also a human made rock maze on a rock promontory. Rejoin the main trail and follow it until you reach the site of the old Sutros Baths.



The Sutros Baths were built by former mayor Adolph Sutro in 1896 as a privately owned swimming pool complex that included seven pools, six of which were salt water and one freshwater. A fire in 1966 burned the original structure down and the ruins were left as a point of interest. Explore the Baths and walk through the tunnel at the Northern end for a short, cool adventure.

Above the Sutros Baths sits the Cliff House restaurant that forms the North end of Ocean Beach. First built in 1858 with lumber salvaged from shipwrecks that happened on the rocks below it, the structure has seen a number of changes. It is now a charming and somewhat expensive place to eat that is mostly a tourist destination.

On the hill above the Cliff House was the site of the home of Adolph Sutro. The foundation of the home is still in place and this area provides an excellent place from which to view Ocean Beach, the Outer Richmond, and Golden Gate Park.



A block or two off of Ocean Beach is a Safeway grocery store. From here a number of buses lead to destinations throughout the city. Tired hikers can use these buses to return back to the start of the hike. Those with the time and stamina however are encouraged to hike through Golden Gate Park, have tea in the Japanese Tea Gardens, and finish up with a meal in Haight Ashbury for the full circuit!



Downtown SF - Golden Gate Bridge - Sausalito: A perennial favorite. Ride your bike over the Golden Gate Bridge from anywhere in Downtown San Francisco to Sausalito. Enjoy a Mimosa or brunch and either pedal home or take the Sausalito Ferry back to San Francisco. 5.5 miles one way, or 11 miles round trip (from the GGB).

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Favorite Hikes: Yosemite National Park

Not just for world renowned rock climbing, Yosemite is also home to some of the best and most breath-taking hiking on Earth. Below is a short summary of our favorite hikes in Yosemite National Park grouped by area.

Yosemite Valley

4 Mile Trail: Ascending nearly 3,200 feet off the Valley Floor, 4 Mile Trail links hikers from near the base of Sentinel Rock in Yosemite Valley, all the way up to Glacier Point on the Valley's South Eastern side, this is surely one of the Valley's best and most arduous hikes. Distances are 4.7 miles one way, and 9.4 miles round trip. Some hikers prefer to take the hiker's shuttle from Yosemite Lodge (times: 8:30, 10:00, and 1:30 pm) to the top of Glacier Point and hike only back down to the Valley. Cost of the ride one-way is $25 for adults, $23 for seniors, and $15 for children. Tickets are available at the Yosemite Lodge tour desk. This hike offers spectacular views and a more pleasurable challenge than the Upper Yosemite Falls trail that climbs the opposite side of the Valley. The trail is less rocky, wider, and offers a gentler grade than the one that ascends to the West side of Yosemite Falls. Also, a bonus with 4 Mile Trail is the ability to see Yosemite Falls for almost the entire way up.

Upper Yosemite Falls Trail: 3.8 miles one-way, or 7.6 miles round trip and 2,600 feet of elevation gain make the Upper Yosemite Falls trail one of the main challenges for hikers visiting Yosemite National Park. Beginning with over 60 short and steep switchbacks up a rock-strewn trail beginning at the trailhead at the back of Camp 4, the hike immediately attempts to weed out those out of shape or unprepared. After these initial switchbacks, hiker's are greeted by the excellent view at Columbia Point. From here, approximately 1/3 finished with the hike, and nearly 1,100 feet off the Valley Floor, hikers can stand at the metal railing and take in sweeping views down both sides of the Valley, gaze at the towering majesty of Half Dome, and the fingernail size swimming pool in back of Yosemite Lodge. Not far from Columbia Point, the trail turns a corner and opens up a view of Upper Yosemite Falls. If early in the season, a fair amount of moisture/mist will rain down on hikers here as they move along the flattish path towards the base of the Upper Falls. Here a final round of switchbacks (many) lead up to the top of Yosemite Falls and fabulous views out over the Valley. Those with extra energy can continue on for another mile or so to Yosemite Point which looks out over Lost Arrow Spire and the Valley Floor. As always in Yosemite, bring much more water on these longer hikes than you think you need, plenty of snacks, and pace yourself.

Vernal and Nevada Falls via the Mist Trail: 7 miles round trip to the top of Nevada Falls, and 1,900 feet of elevation gain. This is perhaps my favorite hike in all of Yosemite Valley. Ascending up the well-named Mist Trail, hikers are treated to direct views, and summits, of two water falls Vernal Falls (317 feet tall) and Nevada Falls (594 feet). Take the Mist Trail up the right side of Vernal Falls to its metal railing surrounded summit, then continue up past Nevada Falls on its left side to its summit. Take your time basking in your accomplishment, the suns rays, and gorgeous views of Liberty Cap before heading down. Descend via the John Muir Trail after crossing over the Merced River above Nevada Falls. This descent option is much easier on the knees offering a much reduced grade, and longer, flatter, and less rocky switchbacks on the way back down to the observation bridge below Vernal Falls. If it's early in the season or the water level seems particularly high, hikers may wish to have a poncho with them for Vernal Falls as the mist blowing off the Falls can completely soak through a hiker's clothes in minutes. Also, it shouldn't need to be said, but exercise extreme caution on the wet and rocky trails here. People have slipped and fallen to their deaths at various points along the trail. The exposure and level of objective danger are not unreasonable, but carelessness or allowing oneself to become dehydrated or distracted can and does result in serious accidents.

Half Dome: Now a permit-only hike, Half Dome's summit is reached via the famed cables that are located several miles past the top of Nevada Falls on Half Dome's South side. If you are able to reserve a permit very early in the year for a summit attempt on Half Dome, you will be one of 400 visitors that day to try to set aside fear and exhaustion to reach one of North America's (if not the world's) most famous hike-up to rock summits. The hike is nearly 18.5 miles round trip from Curry Village and culminates in an exposed hike up to the top of the sub-dome (very narrow, and slippery rock switchbacks to here), followed by steel cables for 400 feet to the Half Dome's summit. Many people have died on the summit cables from both accidental falls, lightening, and from sudden rain storms that caused the granite to become incredibly slick and dangerous. The Park Service is currently reviewing different ideas for making this hike less dangerous including the recently implemented permitting system which limits the dangerous overcrowding on the cables. This does not mean however that at peak times there will not still be a slow moving (or non-moving) congo line on the cables with fear stricken hikers who are unable to move up or down. This hike strikes me as unnecessarily dangerous (as each hiker is responsible for assessing thunderstorm risks, personal hydration, the competency of those around them, etc while already in an environment that is often foreign to them and while typically exhausted.) I can't honestly advocate this hike while comparatively safer and far less crowded gems such as North Dome and Sentinel Dome are available. That said, if you simply must do Half Dome be sure you can identify building storms (which come on extremely quickly in the Sierras), consider protection opportunities such as quick draws and a harness, bring way more water than you think you'll need, and be sure you are fit enough for this gruelling 18.5 mile, 4,800 ft elevation gain marathon. If so, have fun, but be very careful!

Sentinel Dome and Taft Point and the Fissures: One of my favorite places to take visitors in YNP, these two Valley rim features offer more serenity than the more crowded hikes listed above, with a chance to see classic Yosemite views without the hordes of camera toting tourists (I know, I know...I'm one too!) Driving towards Glacier Point along Glacier Point Rd, park at a paved pullout on the left with perpendicular parking spaces and a concrete bathroom facility (come early to make sure you get a spot on crowded weekends!) Leaving the parking area, hike to the East for 1.1 miles along a well marked trail, and ascend the low angle slabs on Sentinel Dome's eastern side to its summit. Here, at 8,100 feet (also the second highest point overlooking the Valley Floor with only Half Dome being higher at 8,800 feet), you will be rewarded with 360 degree views of Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, and the high Sierra to the East. This is truly one of the finest places in the Valley to relax and practice your photography! Retrace your steps back to the parking area, but continue past the cars for 1.1 more miles to Taft Point and the Fissures. Beware that the Fissures are incut rock chimney's that fall away several thousand feet to the Valley Floor. Keep an eye on the next step, not just through the view finder on your camera! Taft Point offers a metal railing for protection as you peer out over the edge and look down on El Capitan! After the hikes, finish off by driving over to Glacier Point for its classic views and a libation at the small gift shop and eatery.

Approaching North Dome's Summit

North Dome:Park at the Porcupine Creek area on Tioga Rd (in Tuolumne Meadows, Hwy 120 E). From here hike 4.4 miles each way down the summit of North Dome. The crowds are even less a factor here than on Sentinel Dome and the views of Half Dome's face from directly across Tenaya Canyon and down through Yosemite Valley make this hike an absolute must do if the road through Tuolumne Meadows is open for the season. If you are early in the season, and the water is high, you may have to cross streams in certain places. This can be deadly. Make sure to find a safe area to cross (if inobvious from previous parties) and take your time.

Tuolumne Meadows Area

Pothole Dome: Park in the pullout off Hwy 120 Tioga Pass Road at the sign for Pothole Dome. Use a well worn path to cross the meadow to its base, and 3rd/4th class your way up the Dome's low angle shoulder. This is a really quick adventure, but is great fun. Its amazing what modern day, sticky rubber hiking shoes/boots can do on textured Yosemite granite. Trust your feet and make your way up to Pothole Domes summit for views sweeping out across Tuolumne Meadows.

Lembert Dome: The classic dome hike in Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome is the prominent sloping dome directly off the road near the Tuolumne Lodge area. The trailhead starts at 8,500 ft and ascends 900 feet to the thinner air summit at 9,400 ft. The hike is 2.8 miles round trip and ample parking is located at the trailhead. The trail leads hikers to the bare rock shoulder of Lembert Dome. From here slowly navigate your way to the small summit block, and carefully scramble up to the Dome's true summit using extreme caution to avoid sliding down the slabs. Excellent views of Tuolumne River and Meadows make for a terrific finish.

Castle Rock State Park - South Bay

Castle Rock State Park is home to some of the best sandstone bouldering in the United States. A large area with tons of boulder problems, a fair amount of bolted sport climbs, and some trad lines, Castle Rock in and of itself is enough material for an entire guidebook (of which there are several.)

Climbs here range from 10 foot boulders to 120 foot tall sport lines encompassing nearly every level of difficulty.

The park itself comprises 5,200 acres along the highest ridge in the Santa Cruz Mountains. There are over 35 miles of trails running through the park. Fortunately however, much of the very best climbing is within a mile or two of the main parking lot on CA-35.

Favorite Climbs:



The area known as the Waterfall Cliff provides a nice mixture of moderate sport and trad climbs and is a must visit if you are looking to rope up and have limited time. The area is located below the waterfall observation deck that is a 0.9 mile downhill hike from the main parking area.

The climbs here range from 5.6 to 5.11d, with the likely most popular moderate route being The Falls (5.10R) which ascends a bolted face up the left side of the waterfall just below the observation deck. It is 100' long and runout. There are 6 bolts - the first of which is approximately 15' off the drck - and the anchor is rigged using the observation deck supports. The climb can be top-roped with a 70 m rope or by using long slings off the observation deck.

To the right of the falls is the very fun Charlie Solo (5.6, Trad, 45') that ends at a two bolt anchor. The climb is a lieback with plenty of protection opportunities. One of the bolts was substandard and loose the last time we were there. A tree at the top can be used to supplement the bolts using 15-20' of webbing.



To the left of Charlie Solo is The Greeboo (5.9, Sport, 45'). The climb ascends past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor which is shared with Charlie Solo. Fun slabby face moves make this an enjoyable climb, but it is slightly run-out. The bolts can be supplmeneted with a few pieces of trad gear in the crack to the right or in a pocket midway through the climb.



On the far right side of the wall is Putrefaction (5.11a, Sport, 75') that ascends past 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This climb is tenuous face climbing up featured sandstone. It can be top-roped by walking across the rocks at the top, although reaching the bolts is a bit sketchy as they are on a downward slopping summit.



Lastly, just right of Putrefaction is Degeneration (5.10a, Sport and Trad, 70') which begins with a 5.6 dihedral that protects well with stoppers and small cams for approximately 40'. The climb then traverses out onto a slab face with 3 bolts leading to a two bolt anchor. Here again the climb can be top-roped with the anchors being much easier to reach than those for Putrefaction. Unfortunately however, one of the bolts was loose the last time we climbed here. It was both no longer fully driven and had a loose hangar.



To reach these climbs hike towards the observation deck. Approximately 40' from the deck itself there is a metal sign reading 'Danger Sheer Cliff Stay Back.' Turn left here and cross the stream and follow a faint trail steeply uphill for 200 feet or so. Follow the trail to the right until you reach the tops of the above climbs. Here you will see a gully that runs down to the base. Carefully descend the slabs and you will see the bolted routes on your right.



Directions: From San Francisco, take I-280 South to exit 24 Sand Hill Rd toward Menlo Park. Turn right on Portola Rd, left onto Ca-84W/La Honda Rd, and another left onto CA-35 S/Skyline Blvd. Approximate drive time is 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Fees: There is an $8 day use fee.

Special Considerations: Avoid climbing for several days (minimum should be two) after it has rained. The sandstone here is very fragile and critical holds on well loved problems have been known to break. There is also a fair amount of Poison Oak throughout the park and visitors should keep an eye out for both Western Rattlesnakes and Mountain Lions.