Training for Endurance

Training for Endurance

There is nothing better to improve your ability to climb, and specifically lead, longer routes than good old fashioned cardio - running, spinning, hitting the stairmaster, or rowing. But if you, like many climbers, just can't seem to get into these usually monotonous activities then don't despair, there are alternatives.

One way to build endurance is to target one session a week in the climbing gym as an endurance day. On this day, the goal should be mileage not difficulty. Which is to say, you should do as many routes as possible regardless of rating but without falling into the trap of creating bad habits by climbing so fast, or routes so easy, that you allow that carefully honed technique of yours to devolve into a flailing vertical sprint. Instead go one or two grades below your normal onsight max and climb as many of these as possible in good style. A good time to do this workout is after you've been throwing yourself at harder projects for a few days and are feeling frustrated at your inability to climb at your limit. Rather than be frustrated, take this time to work on your endurance.

On this day, find a climbing partner who is on the same page, and take turns roping up in an area where three climbs are available on the same top-rope all at a reasonable level of difficulty, and climb each route back-to-back without rest. Swap turns and continue on around the gym in this fashion. To increase the difficulty, try to downclimb each route with your belayer providing enough slack to allow this to be smooth, but not so much as to invite dangerous swings or falls.

Another great way to build endurance is to find an open area of the gym and work long traverses low to the ground paying careful attention not to climb under or through other climbers. If you must step off the wall, do so only briefly. Shake out, and continue where you left off, setting a goal to do one whole side of the gym for example. And remember, don't sacrifice your form or technique!

It also helps to practice finding creative resting opportunities while on climbs. This will allow you to feel more comfortable when outdoors on lead when you need to reduce the pumped feeling so that you can continue on safely. For example, when approaching a crux on a climb in the gym, look to see if you can't use a knee bar in a corner, or a good no hands balanced rest on two good feet holds. Next time you are feeling pumped in the gym, rather than just letting go and hanging on the rope, see if you can't alternate hands and shake out each one individually before continuing on. When it comes to endurance it pays to use your head as well as your heart and lungs.

Finally, an overall fitness program using light weights with a high number of repetitions will increase your body's ability to climb longer with less overall strain.