Castle Rock State Park is home to some of the best sandstone bouldering in the United States. A large area with tons of boulder problems, a fair amount of bolted sport climbs, and some trad lines, Castle Rock in and of itself is enough material for an entire guidebook (of which there are several.)
Climbs here range from 10 foot boulders to 120 foot tall sport lines encompassing nearly every level of difficulty.
The park itself comprises 5,200 acres along the highest ridge in the Santa Cruz Mountains. There are over 35 miles of trails running through the park. Fortunately however, much of the very best climbing is within a mile or two of the main parking lot on CA-35.
Favorite Climbs:
The area known as the Waterfall Cliff provides a nice mixture of moderate sport and trad climbs and is a must visit if you are looking to rope up and have limited time. The area is located below the waterfall observation deck that is a 0.9 mile downhill hike from the main parking area.
The climbs here range from 5.6 to 5.11d, with the likely most popular moderate route being The Falls (5.10R) which ascends a bolted face up the left side of the waterfall just below the observation deck. It is 100' long and runout. There are 6 bolts - the first of which is approximately 15' off the drck - and the anchor is rigged using the observation deck supports. The climb can be top-roped with a 70 m rope or by using long slings off the observation deck.
To the right of the falls is the very fun Charlie Solo (5.6, Trad, 45') that ends at a two bolt anchor. The climb is a lieback with plenty of protection opportunities. One of the bolts was substandard and loose the last time we were there. A tree at the top can be used to supplement the bolts using 15-20' of webbing.
To the left of Charlie Solo is The Greeboo (5.9, Sport, 45'). The climb ascends past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor which is shared with Charlie Solo. Fun slabby face moves make this an enjoyable climb, but it is slightly run-out. The bolts can be supplmeneted with a few pieces of trad gear in the crack to the right or in a pocket midway through the climb.
On the far right side of the wall is Putrefaction (5.11a, Sport, 75') that ascends past 4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This climb is tenuous face climbing up featured sandstone. It can be top-roped by walking across the rocks at the top, although reaching the bolts is a bit sketchy as they are on a downward slopping summit.
Lastly, just right of Putrefaction is Degeneration (5.10a, Sport and Trad, 70') which begins with a 5.6 dihedral that protects well with stoppers and small cams for approximately 40'. The climb then traverses out onto a slab face with 3 bolts leading to a two bolt anchor. Here again the climb can be top-roped with the anchors being much easier to reach than those for Putrefaction. Unfortunately however, one of the bolts was loose the last time we climbed here. It was both no longer fully driven and had a loose hangar.
To reach these climbs hike towards the observation deck. Approximately 40' from the deck itself there is a metal sign reading 'Danger Sheer Cliff Stay Back.' Turn left here and cross the stream and follow a faint trail steeply uphill for 200 feet or so. Follow the trail to the right until you reach the tops of the above climbs. Here you will see a gully that runs down to the base. Carefully descend the slabs and you will see the bolted routes on your right.
Directions: From San Francisco, take I-280 South to exit 24 Sand Hill Rd toward Menlo Park. Turn right on Portola Rd, left onto Ca-84W/La Honda Rd, and another left onto CA-35 S/Skyline Blvd. Approximate drive time is 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Fees: There is an $8 day use fee.
Special Considerations: Avoid climbing for several days (minimum should be two) after it has rained. The sandstone here is very fragile and critical holds on well loved problems have been known to break. There is also a fair amount of Poison Oak throughout the park and visitors should keep an eye out for both Western Rattlesnakes and Mountain Lions.
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