Thursday, January 5, 2012

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area


Located 15 miles off the Las Vegas strip is the U-shaped corridor of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (or just 'Red Rocks' for short).

The climbing here features both well-protected sport climbs and multi-pitch trad routes up crimson and white sand stone.

Geology: Soaring up to 3,000', Red Rocks is the product of fractured faults and fossilized sand dunes, leaving both limestone and Aztec sandstone. Interspersed amongst the red sandstone are bands of white, creating a visual paradise, with the reddish color resulting from iron oxide (rust).


Climbing Information: Popular sport climbing is located at Calico Hills (pictured above) and Sandstone Quarry. For trad climbs, ahead to the Brass Wall and Necromancer Wall. For multi-pitch climbs head to Eagle Wall, Aeolian Wall, Mescalito, and Solar Slab Wall. Multi-day big wall aid climbs can be found on Rainbow Wall (pictured below.) The sport climbs at Calico Hills tend to be well protected. Additionally, many multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks include bolted belays for quick changeovers and secure anchors, thus making some of the easier multi-pitch routes ideal for beginning leaders.


For more information on specific routes or to purchase a guidebook, head to Desert Rock Sports just outside the Red Rocks Conservation Area at 8221 W Charleston Blvd, Tomsik Plaza, Las Vegas, NV 89117. The shop also rents bouldering pads which is great news for those visiting Red Rocks via flight into Las Vegas. The cost at last look was $15/day.

Directions: From the Las Vegas Strip, use I-15 S to exit 34 for I-215W toward Henderson. Take Exit 26 for Charleston Blvd (west). Turn right onto Scenic Loop Drive.

Favorite Climbs:

The Hamlet: Located off the First Pullout, The Hamlet offers easy to moderate sport climbing up glowing red sandstone. The rocks is peppered with black varnished sections offering many positive hand and footholds. The area is somewhat new, so watch for loose rock, and always wear a helmet!



Approach: Locate The Hamlet by parking at the First Pullout and hiking downhill on the obvious trail. Once at the large wash, turn left and hike uphill until you reach the top. The Hamlet will be across from you with a large incut face/left angling arch and patches of black varnish. Hike down and left back to where you can cross the wash and up to the base of the wall. (See beta photo.)

Climbs Left to Right on the wall are as follows:

The Play's the Thing (5.easy): 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rappel rings. This is a very low angle face that would make for an excellent beginner's lead. It's also a good place to practice cleaning and rappeling as the rappel bolts are located on a very nice and wide ledge. Note: The belayer can clip a low bolt at the start of the route to protect from tumbling down a short blocky area should the leader fall.

Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone (5.7): 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Excellent climbing up fun, positive holds. Angle up and left past several bolts to a blank section. Pull up over a bulge using high steps and head past two final bolts to the anchor. May be a touch easier than 5.7.



Sweets to the Sweet (5.7): 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This climb is a step-up in difficulty from 'Frailty.' That said, it is also a strictly fun moderate with two small crux sections mid-way up the climb. Our personal favorite route at The Hamlet.

When the Blood Burns (5.10a): This is a top rope only route.

Sea of Troubles (5.9): 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This is a nice route that starts in a chimney, goes up past a bulge, and then climbs up through easier terrain to the anchors.

Below and to the right are several top-rope routes ranging from 5.6-5.8. The bolts are found below and right of Sea of Troubles. I haven't climbed these Top Rope routes, but they look aesthetic and fun.

The Panty Wall:



To the right of The Hamlet is the black varnished Panty Wall. The Pany Wall offers well protected sport routes ranging from 5.6-5.12, with several classic 5.7 and 5.8 routes. The Panty Wall is more popular than The Hamlet and can be crowded depending on the time of day and season.



Note: The Scenic Loop Drive is 13 miles long and is one-way. Calico Hills (sport climbing) is located just after turning onto the loop road on the right. Do not drive too fast or miss a stop or you will be forced to take the entire loop to get back to the start. While only 13 miles, RVs and gawkers can make this a slog. Take your time and plan ahead so you don't miss out on some of Red Rocks' excellent climbing!

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