Sunday, March 25, 2012

Beginner's Yosemite Multipitch: Oak Tree to Bay Tree



Oak Tree-to-Bay Tree is an excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing, and given the low angle nature of the climbing and its 5.6 rating, the climb is suitable for beginning trad leaders who have some experience building trad anchors. Opportunities to place protection are abundant and a single rack of cams and stoppers with a few extra slings should be sufficient.

The climb is located at the Western end of Swan Slabs near Camp 4. The first pitch is the small chimney located just left of the Oak Tree Flake.

Pitch One ascends a small chimney for approximately 60 feet. Protection is somewhat limited, but a cam placement or two are available higher up near the crux of the pitch where the chimney narrows and forces larger-bodied climbers to come out of the chimney to make a face move or two. Otherwise the chimney feels very secure. Arrive at a large and comfortable platform and build an anchor in the vertical crack behind you using cams #1 -#3.

Pitch Two is where the real fun begins. Ascend blocks past the Bay Tree (which may be slung for protection) and climb to the summit ledge via a right leaning 5.6 finger crack (sweet!) on low angle terrain. Protection is abundant and the setting and views are excellent. Again arrive at a large and spacious ledge that features a single (and quite antiquated) bolt for protection. I was also able to get a BD Cam # 0.4 behind a flake (pictured above) to supplement the bolt.

To descend, walk straight back away from the climb across class 3 ledges (careful here!) and curve down to your left. Here you will arrive at the rap bolts above the Penthouse Cracks. Rappel on a single 60 meter rope or build an anchor, rappel, and use the rope to top rope the excellent Penthouse Cracks. After climbing the cracks, batman up the unclimbable slab to retrieve your gear and rap off the rappel rings.

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