Joshua Tree: Indian Cove Campground

Joshua Tree: Indian Cove Campground

Located along CA-62, approximately halfway between the towns of Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms is a turnoff for Indian Cove Campground. While this campground is technically inside of Joshua Tree, there is no ranger station or day use fee. There are 101 regular size camp sites which cost $15/per night or $25/40 for the Group sites of which there are 13. Unlike other campgrounds in Joshua Tree, sites here may be reserved from October 1st through May 31st by calling 1-877-444-6777 up to six months in advance of the date you want to reserve. Reservations can also be made online at www.recreation.gov.

Indian Cove Campground is home to some of the best easy to moderate cragging in all of Joshua Tree National Park. There are 34 routes rated 5.5 and below, 24 5.6's, 36 5.7's, 46 5.8's, 28 5.9's, and 31 5.10a's all in a relatively small cluster surrounding the campground.

Finding routes here is usually as easy as locating the site number that marks approach up to the climb. Approaches here are typically denoted in feet or times that are generally less than 10 minutes.

Area Favorites:

The Short Wall: One of the most popular crags in Indian Cove Campground. Approach by driving into Indian Cove Campround, make a left at Billboard Buttress which is the road leading to Rattlesnake Canyon, and the Short Wall will be on your left where the two roads merge. There is day use parking available immediately in front of the wall (pictured below.)

The Short Wall offers approximately 30 routes ranging from 5.3-5.11c. Almost all can be top-roped off of gear anchors. The walk off for routes on the right side of the wall is a Class 2 slab straight down off the backside that will feel comfortable even for the average hiker.

Be aware though that anchors are built using cracks beneath boulders that rest atop of the Short Wall and are generally quite a ways back from the cliff's edge. Very long slings, cordelette, or a second thin line are necessary if you plan on top roping from the ground. It is likely easier to belay from above, although this will still require long runners to avoid damaging to your rope.

Favorites in this Area:

Toe Jam Express (5.3): The prominent hand and first crack located on the Right Side of the Short Wall and pictured above. This route takes mid to large size cams. This is a great beginner's trad lead and also an excellent introduction to jamming.

Donna T's Route (5.5): The furthest to the right route on the crag, Donna T's route offers a short section of thin hands crack climbing up to a wider section that is easily protected. The climb finishes with a squeeze between two boulders at the top. High fun value for such a short and easy climb. Like Toe Jam Express, Donna T's Route is an excellent candidate for a first trad lead.

Don't forget that the face climbs between the cracks can also be done off of top rope and are really fun. As this area is very popular, either come early in the morning or just before sundown for a fun, crowdless climbing experience!

N00b Rock: Located just past the Short Wall in the back of campsite 14, is N00b  Rock. This rock features three climbs (from left to right): C*nt Crack (5.4), Hamms Down (5.7), and N00ber Goober (5.7). 

C*nt Crack is a fun and short 5.4 trad crack that ascends out of a pod on the left side of the formation. The other two climbs are face climbs that are pretty steep for the grade. All three climbs share a two bolt rap anchor at the top center of the formation. It is easiest to first climb C*nt Crack and then TR the two face climbs. Please remember to ask permission to climb on this formation if anyone is staying in campsite 14 (as is customary everywhere in Joshua Tree.)

Yosemite National Park: Highway Star

Yosemite National Park: Highway Star (5.10a)

Highway Star (5.10a + harder variations) is a great 60 foot top rope climb located just past the junction of Hwy 120/140 in Yosemite Valley. A mixture of short thin crack liebacking, following by a hand traverse, and then perfect 5.10 hands, this is one fantastic top rope route!

Approach: When entering the Valley via Hwy 120, you will reach the Valley floor at the intersection of Hwy 120/140. Turn left into the Valley and park at the first pullout on the right hand side next to the Merced River (approximately 1 mile.) Cross the road (away from the Merced River) and follow a faint trail to the left and uphill for approximately 5 minutes to the base of the crag. It is noticeable and distinguishable through the trees as a very clean granite face.

The Climb: Ascend up the right or left side of the leaning flake up to the thin finger crack on the left. Layback the crack, mantel up into the traverse, head left and ascend the off-hands/fist crack to the top.

Set-up: To top rope this route, head up on the left hand side of the crag. Easy Class 3 to the top and use the trees to set up an anchor. Use long slings to both back up the main tree at the top using other subsidiary trees, and also to get your anchor out over the lip.

Note: There is a left variation that goes at 5.10b as well as a few boulder move problems at the base. If working the 5.10b crack variation to the left, first lower off and set a directional above the Texas shaped flake to avoid swinging into the large triangular flake at the base to climber's right.

Joshua Tree Route Beta

Hemingway Buttress

Feltoneon Physics (5.8)


This 100 foot tall trad line lies just off Park Boulevard approx 2 miles from Hidden Valley Campground. Park at the large pullout for Hemingway Buttress and hike towards the center of the wall. This climb starts approximately 40 feet to the right of the classic hand/fist crack, White Lightning (5.7). Featuring a wide crack/OW start in a right facing corner (that can be somewhat avoided by moving out onto the face of the buttress), the climb then ascends through excellent hand and finger cracks to a traverse below the summit, and a mantel up between two boulders. For a 100 foot line, this climb felt very adventurous given the heterogeneous nature of its features, its airy traverse (Note: leaders remember to protect your seconds by placing gear at the start and finish of the traverse!), and its mantel finish. Rappel off White Lightning with two ropes, or with a single cord approx 25 feet left of the climb (but note you will end up 7-10 feet off the ground and will need to downclimb easy face holds to complete the descent. I highly recommend this route!

Echo Rocks Area

Eff Eight (5.8)

This 40' Trad line feels like quite the sandbag and is definitely a difficult lead given its unsual placement opportunities. The climb ascends a 40 foot hand crack that curves left off the desert floor. Located in the Echo Rocks Area, this climb receives near perfect sunlight during the day, has a two bolt summit anchor, and features a nice and easy walk-off. If planning to TR this climb, bring long slings to reach from the bolts out over the lip of the climb. While challenging and a bit of a physical struggle rather than an opportunity to practice smooth crack climbing skills, its position, its easy approach, and the bolts making for an ideal top rope for those unused to trad anchors, this climb warrants inclusion in the Bay Area Climbers' To Do List. Park in the Echo Cove Parking lot and hike towards the large Echo Rock. When you near the West End of Echo Rock, turn right and head out into the open expanse on a well worn trail. Eff Eight will be the prominent left slanting crack on a large boulder directly in front of you. To descend, use the easy walk off on climber's left.

Double Dip (5.6)


Double Dip seen on left side with the flake. Stitcher Quits is the prominent black streak on the right. This is Echo Rock, West Face, as seen from the parking lot approach.

Located on Echo Rock's North Face, this 110' sport climb ascends the right side of flake before cruising up the lower angled dome to a nice flat bench finish high off the desert floor. The climb is runout and the flake at its start can be protected with a single cam (#3 or #4) near its top. Ascend the outside of the flake (lieback) for the most straightforward experience. From there one move puts you to the second bolt (don't blow this clip (or fail to put in a cam behind the flake) or you will deck!) After the second bolt, the climbing is easy face climbing and offers quite a few positive holds to say its a slab. Its pure fun, although runout with only 5 bolts in 100' plus. A great alternative to the most popular (but usually crowded) Stitcher Quits (5.7) that ascends the prominent black dike to the right of Double Dip. There is a two bolt anchor. Descend the slabs to climber's left. Pretty classic climb for the grade and I highly recommend it!

Hidden Valley Campground

Hands Off (5.8)

Located inside Hidden Valley Campground, Hands Off (5.8), is a somewhat difficult 5.8that combines stemming, jamming, and some thrashing, to ascend this varied and fun route. Brings #4s for the anchor and smaller gear for the climb itself. To descend, walk off to climber's left down the backside on a somewhat steep slab. Curve back towards hidden Valley and downclimb to the base of the route. The downclimb is not too bad as far as Joshua Tree is concerned. This is a John Long FA and a very popular climb.

Beginner's Three (5.3)


Located on the backside of Intersection Rock, this low angle hand crack ascends a prominent buttress for 50'. Protection opportunities are available throughout, making this a good beginner's trad lead. It does however finish on a low angle slab that appears to have a crack in it when viewed from the ground, only to turn out to be a shallow streak that offers no protection. The angle is quite low here, but this should be known before leaving the ground to avoid the surprise a beginner would feel to suddenly be confronted with a lack of pro. The climb finishes on the shoulder of Intersection Rock below Overhang Bypass. Build an anchor in the horizontal crack that is positioned approx 10 feet from the lip of the climb. Downclimb off to climber's left (not too bad.)

Double Cross (5.8)

An absolute Joshua Tree classic. This 5.7+-5.8 route offers some of the best hand jamming I've ever seen. It is unfortunately the site of quite a few accidents probably owing to its 25' of essentially unprotected (but easy) face climbing before the start of the crack and due to its fame as a classic Joshua Tree solo. After the face moves, its 70' of beautiful and rythmic crack climbing. Rap anchors are to climber's right. Takes a standard rack with cams up to 3" with doubles (or triples) of #1s and #2s.

Quail Springs

Trashcan Rock, located just off Park Boulevard approximately 3 miles from the Park's Western entrance, this rock sees a lot of traffic from both guide groups and tourists given that it features a large parking area, picnic tables, and 5 second approaches. While not a remote wilderness setting, it does offer a lot of climbing in a short period of time given the availability of easy-to-moderate trad routes and moderate sport climbs.


1. The Trough (5.0) - A great, but short (20') beginner's trad line
2. Karpwitz (5.6) - A nice fun, trad line with varied movements
3. B-3 (5.3) - Trad, anchor in horizontal crack above.
4. Profundity (5.10c) - Sport. Thoughtful, fun moves on an inobvious line.
5. B-2 (5.3) - Trad. The least enjoyable of the 5.3 and below trad lines on the face.
6. Tiptoe (5.7+) - Sport. A great line that moves up a feldspar dike. First bolt is way off the ground though and should be (dare I say it!) stick clipped if possible.
7. B-1 (5.1) - Trad. Fun face moves on patina flakes compliment a few nice hand jams.

Lost Horse Area

Atlantis Wall

To reach the Atlantis Wall, turn off Park Boulevard onto the dirt road through the Lost Horse Area. Park at the last dirt pullout before the 'Service Only Road' sign. Hike in on a well worn trail along rock walls until you can turn left up and into a Canyon. There on your left will be the very popular and fun Atlantis Wall.

On the Atlantis Wall are a number of great beginner trad climbs that can also be toproped by walking up the easy gully on the backside (Class 2?). Trad anchors and long slings are necessary to rig ropes, but a number of large boulders atop the formation offer strong and easy to use anchor points.

In the photo above, left-to-right, are:

Solar Technology (5.6), Men with Cow's Heads (5.5), Wet Pigeon (5.8), and Taurus
(5.7). We found everyone of these climbs to be fantastic. They make for great beginner's leads given the shorter nature of the wall (50') and due to the plentiful protection opportunities throughout each climb.

Indian Creek Volunteer Day

From Jim Donini's post on SuperTopo.com, this one is a bit further afield for most of our readers, but as if you needed a reason to head to Indian Creek please see below.

"The weekend of October 13th/14th will be the time, Creek Pasture the place for the 4th Annual Indian Creek Volunteer Day.
BLM co-ordinator Bob Lever (a great friend to climbers) has lined up some tasty projects mostly in the Creek Pasture/ Superbowl campground areas.

Come help protect and restore these areas and further build the climber/ land manager relationship in Indian Creek!
On Saturday we work and on Sunday we play.
What you get:
Reserved camping Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights at Creek Pasture.
Free World famous Bison or Veggie Burger barbeque on Saturday night.
Wonderful tales (some even true) around a crackling oak fire.
Meet new clmbing friends.
Free T-shirts from the BLM
Crack climbing clinics on Sunday and a chance to climb with your new friends.
and most of all the great feeling from a job well done. At past events participants have always been amazed at what they have accomplished.

Please RSVP Jim Donini at (jimdonini43@gmail.com) with your bison/veggie preferance"

Oakdale Climbers' Festival 10/26-10/28

From Steve Grossman's Announcement on SuperTopo, the below event is something our readers won't want to miss...!!!

"Oakdale Climbers Festival 2012- Invitation and Schedule of Events

The City of Oakdale and I are pleased to invite you to participate in the inaugural Oakdale Climbers Festival taking place at the Oakdale Community Center Friday, October 26 through Sunday, October 28, 2012.

“Running Towards Commitment- The Salathé Experience” will be the theme for the first two days.

The event will kick off on Friday evening at 7:30pm with a discussion of the personal and climbing history of John Salathé lead by Steve Grossman.

Jerry Gallwas will tell the story of his Salathé piton collection and its connection to the first ascent of the Lost arrow via the Chimney and discuss his own early ascent.

Guest of Honor Al Steck will then comment on his own experiences with John on the north face of Sentinel Rock in July 1950. The Steck-Salathé route set the standard with respect to difficulty and style and was by far the most difficult rock climb of its era and yardstick for the next generation

Ken Yager will discuss John's later years including the transfer of his hardware through the Thune family to the Yosemite Climbing Association. Salathé hardware will be on display for the duration of the event.

Doug Robinson will then speak to the Salathé legacy of boldness and style to conclude the evening.

On Saturday at noon, Tom Frost and Royal Robbins will discuss the influence of Salathé on their approach to climbing El Capitan's southwest face named in John's honor, the Salathé Wall. Tom and Royal will recount their experiences on the first ascent with Chuck Pratt and a subsequent attempt to repeat the climb in a single push with TM Herbert. Fifty years ago Tom and Royal were the first party of two to climb El Cap in a very lightly-equipped second ascent of the Salathé Wall.

At 2 pm Al Steck and Dick Long will describe their third ascent with Steve Roper and show a film that they made en route.

At 4 pm Peter Haan will discuss his experience soloing the Salathé Wall as his first time up El Capitan in 1971.

At 6 pm Paul Piana will describe his experiences free climbing the Salathé Wall for the first time with Todd Skinner in 1988.

At 8 pm Hans Florine will discuss speed climbing the Salathé Wall and the evolution of style to finish out the evening.

On Sunday a symposium entitled “Forging Ahead- American Climbing Hardware in the 1940's, 50's and 60's” will be held from noon to 6 pm.

Come and enjoy hardware displays from all manufacturers active during this thirty year period. Participants will be available to answer questions about producing early hardware and hopefully be willing to speak briefly about their experiences making or selling gear fifty years ago.

Speakers start with Al Steck recalling the early days of the Ski Hut in Berkeley.

Jerry Gallwas reflecting on John Salathé as a craftsman and his own work with pitons.

Dick Long and his partner discussing the history of Longware.

Tom Frost and Dennis Hennek discussing the early days of Chouinard Equipment.

Don Lauria reflecting on West Ridge Sports and the history of Bill Feuerer and his Dolt Equipment.

Authors and artists will be selling and signing books and photographs such as Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Glen Denny with more to be listed soon.

Registration is free prior to the deadline at:

http://climb.oakdalecity.com/

In order to keep this event free we need financial support in the form of:

1) Donations from boosters in any amount.

2) Limited Artist and Author Exhibition Space for $150.

3) Vendor Exhibition Space for $300.

4) Sponsorship including logo presence on event poster and other promotional material for $500.

5) Festival Guide advertising space starting at $100.

At this point we really need some financial assistance to help properly do this event. Please contact me if you would like to help with a direct donation or need more details about participating in any way.

We are going to print on the event poster very soon so please contact me if you would like to be a sponsor so that we can get your logo in time to include it."

Yosemite Facelift 2012

The time has arrived again for this year's Yosemite Facelift.

Sponsored by the Yosemite Climbing Association and run by Ken Yeager, the Facelift is an annual volunteer event where climbers and others who love the Valley get together and spend the week removing trash and other debris from Yosemite.

There is a program each evening featuring famous climbers, climbing films, slideshows, etc. This year will also be again sponsored by New Belgium Brewery which in previous years has meant purchasing a commemorative pint glass at the beginning of the week for $20 (or so) and then having free beer for the remainder of the week.

Liter sticks and trash bags are handed out to volunteers and all time spent cleaning up is done on a self-directed ad hoc basis. It is not unusual to climb some shorter routes in the morning, spend mid-day picking up trash and hauling out concrete, brick, steel cable, etc and then spending the evening enjoying one of the programs. It is a fantastic time and we highly recommend you participating if time allows!

The evening program schedule is below.

Tuesday September 25, 2012 at East Auditorium - 7th Annual Reel Rock Film Tour. Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Wednesday September 26, 2012 at East Auditorium - Ben Lepesant - "Team Endor going to Hoth. A multinational climbing expedition to Baffin Island", Mike Schaefer presentation, Conrad Anker - "The Bread Line". Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Thursday September 27, 2012 at East Auditorium - Greg Stock - "The Geology of Yosemite Climbing", Sean Leary presentation, Mark Wellman - "No Limits". Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Friday September 28, 2012 at East Auditorium - Cheyne Lempe - "Viva Patagonia", James Lucas - "The Lifestyle Climber", and Alex Honnold - "Adventures". Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Saturday September 29, 2012 On the grass at Yosemite Elementary School - Live music from 5:00 pm - 9:00 pm. Graham Smith-White will open then Little Brother will play.

Sunday September 30, 2012 at East Auditorium - Food, raffle and dancing to music by Little Brother. Doors open at 6:00 pm and event ends at midnight.

 

Hope to see you there!

South Lake Tahoe Area: Luther Spires

Luther Spires



Luther Spires

Located high on a ridge, Luther Spires is host to a series of spires and rock outcrops featuring mostly moderate sport climbing. The approach is a gruelling uphill hike that is best avoided on hot days or during peak sunlight hours. Fortunately, the reward for making the trek is a very sublime setting with literally world class views of the surrounding Christmas Valley. The area is actively seeing development and the bolts are in great condition. There is some loose rock and there are some grainy sections, but all in all, this area is becoming a great destination for moderate sport climbers. There are approximately 16 established routes here with many more likely to come.
Approach: Heading South away from South Lake Tahoe, take Hwy 89 for approximately 10 minutes until you see the sign for the Big Meadow Trailhead. Continue past this sign for approximately 1/2 mile and park in the pullout on the left. Walk down into a clearing and follow the dirt trail down and across a large tree that serves as a natural bridge over a small creek. Head left to continue on the dirt trail and follow switchbacks up to the top where the trail will intersect with the base of the popular slab route, Jane Spy (5.7).

For the easiest climbing, head right from Jane Spy and up a small bit of Class 3 to a small collection of 5.8 to 5.10a climbs. Note: no move on the scramble is harder than Class 3. If you find yourself making a 5.0+ move, then continue searching for the easier approach (especially if weighted down by gear, ropes, etc.) Up here on a small terrace, you will find a short 20' spire with bolted climbs on both the right and left aretes. The left is Cheap Commercial Steak Sauce, Two Fifty (5.10a) and the route on the right is Beer and a Hotdog, Two Bucks (5.8). Our party actually found the left side easier. Both climbs while being short feel sustained given the crimpy nature of both the hand and foot holds. Great views out over the Christmas Valley and a small sense of exposure add to the quality of these two short, well protected lines.



CCSSTF & BH,TB

Dog and Grigri, Two Bucks (5.9) is the climb located to the left side of this small terrace. The crux comes before the first bolt and from there the climbing gets a bit easier, but the quality never wanes. Definitely worth leading if comfortable at the grade.



DG,TB (5.9)

Lake Tahoe: 90 Foot Wall

Tahoe: 90 Foot Wall

90 Foot Wall

Standing 90' tall and approximately 150 feet wide, The 90 Foot Wall is host to nearly 20 routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11b. All routes can be top roped off of bolted anchors, and there are a number of good and moderate trad leads on good but blocky cracks. There are no sport routes at this time.

Approach: Park at the Eagle Creek Canyon parking lot at the far end of Emerald Bay. if approaching from the South, the parking lot will be on your left. There is a day use fee for parking in the lot (which was $5 at the time of our last visit.) To avoid this fee, park along the road at the obvious pullouts as you approach the parking lot. If it is a busy weekend though, be prepared and have cash in case you need to use the lot. From the back of the parking lot, follow the obvious trail up a short hill for approximately 5 minutes. Here head right to the Vista trail which arrives at two benches that make for a great place to watch the sun set over Lake Tahoe and Emerlad Bay. From here the crag will be 100 yards or so dead ahead. Follow the obvious cairns and footprints to the base. To rig top rope anchors, walk the length of the base to its far end and head up and right here. A nice flat top and easy scramble mean that this is an area frequented by those new to climbing outdoors, and it can become quite busy.

Favorite Routes:

Holdless Horror (5.6): This is the thin hands to finger crack that ascends the nearly vertical wall center of left. The climbing is fantastic and it gives those new to thinner cracks a chance to work finger jam technique without having to fully weight their feet in thin toe jams as there are small footholds to the left and right of the crack. Note: Be careful when climbing this on TR as a small buttress to the climber's left could be dangerous if you fall off and swing within the first 15-20 feet. It's not dangerous enough to second guess climbing the route, but its a good thing to be aware of before starting up.



Holdless Horror (5.6)

Rentier (5.7): An adventurous 5.7, Rentier is a nice sustained trad lead with a boulder move off the ground and some interesting long reaches, varied crack sizes, corners, and some stemming. The route is not difficult, but its a full value lead (beware - it gets wide at the top! But the wide crack can be avoided with holds on the face on either side, just make sure you have some bigger pro!)

Strontium 90 (5.8): Strontium is the 5.8 hands to fist crack on the far left side of the wall. The crack starts thin and then works its way up to the 20 foot level or so before getting into a really nice, if not short, hands and fist crack. The climb then briefly tops out onto the top of the flake. You can cross over and finish climbing up to the anchor or lower off here to run laps on the route.



Strontium 90 (5.8)

Shuman the Human (5.6): This is the blocky-crack line on the far lest side of the wall. It is basically a jug hall up slightly reach blocks with a few crack moves mixed in. Our party agreed that it was a fun workout and neat little climb, and would be best climbed as either a warm up or for laps to finish the day with a bit of strength and endurance work.

Casual Observer (5.1). This is the chimney behind Strontium 90 and Shuman. It is top roped off the same bolts as for Strontium 90. One way to get the rope positioned appropriately into Casual Observer for a TR is to climb up Strontium 90 and then lower off into the chimney. The chimney climbs equally well facing in or out, but facing in seemed to offer the better feet. While easy, its a nice introduction to chimney climbing up Sierra granite. A skill that obviously comes in handy a great deal in Yosemite.

Casual Observer (5.1)

Other: Once finished climbing here, you might enjoy a sunset picnic at the benches off the Vista Trail, or take the trail down the waterfall to Emerald Bay. The trail can be picked up directly opposite the Eagle Creek Canyon parking lot. While the water in Tahoe always remains quite brisk, a late rinse in its alpine waters after a long day of climbing can be akin to the feeling of a Baptism.

Hiking in Zion National Park

Zion National Park offers world-class hiking and canyoneering. Perhaps its most famous hike (if you consider The Narrows a canyoneering adventure) is likely the hike to the summit of Angel's Landing.



Angels Landing: Comparable to the Cables Route on Half Dome, this hike, while much shorter than Half Dome, is not for the faint of heart. The hike is 5miles round trip with an elevation gain of 1,200 feet. The first two miles are gradual, smooth and paved.



The trail steepens breifly as it ascends Walter's Wiggles, a series of switchbacks carved into the mountain side by the impetuous first custodian of Zion National Park, Walter Reusch, who in 1924 set out to build a trail that would defy early Zion explorer Frederick Fisher's assessment that the summit of this ridge was such that "only an angel could land on it."



Once finished with the Wiggles, hikers arrive at Scout's Lookout, a beautiful perhaps 50 foot wide flat saddle with open air views out into Zion Canyon to the North. For many who attempt the Angel's Landing hike, this is their turnaround point. Already fabulous in its own right, the hike to Scout's Lookout is one every capable visitor to Zion should make.



From here, the exposure and possible danger increase dramatically as the trail leads hikers up along a steep narrow ridge line for approximately a half mile with 1,000+ foot drop-offs on both sides. Along the trail there are chains to assist hikers in their balance. The chains however would not keep one from falling off should a hiker lose their balance, composure, or grip of the chain. Several people have died on this trail in the past 10 years alone.



The trail reaches its terminus on the summit of Angel's Landing with stunning views down Zion Canyon to the South, the Organ, The Great White Throne, and Cerberus Gendarme.



Allow 5 hours on average and start early to avoid the crowds! Exercise extreme caution, use your own judgement about your abilities, and honestly self-assess your comfort with exposure before beginning the final section. There are plenty of hikes in the world. Not every trail is for everyone. Bring extra water and be advised that in early Spring and Winter the trail can be icy, and in our opinion, not attempted in such conditions under any circumstances. Carefully check the weather and keep an eye on the clouds. Do not hike this trail if a thunderstorm is forecast, possible, or appears to be forming or approaching.

Approach: Park at or shuttle to The Grotto parking area. Here, cross the Virgin River via the narrow bridge and turn right at the fork in the trail. This is the trail to the top of Angel's Landing.

Zion National Park

Located in Southwest Utah and just a three hour drive (or less) from Las Vegas, NV, Zion National Park encompasses some of the most beautiful natural scenery and rock in the country (if not world.) Zion Canyon, with its nearly 3,000 foot walls, its 15 mile length, its bisecting river (The Virgin) and relatively narrow width greatly resembles Yosemite in almost every way, except for the color of its rock (and perhaps due to its lack of distinctly recognizable waterfalls.) Beautiful reds, oranges, splashes of greens from the hanging gardens, magentas, and cream tones color the rocks with bands of geologic time distinct and visible to the naked eye. Nearly 150 million years of sendimentary accumulation, the rise of the Colorado Plateau, and cutting action of a seasonally swelling and receding Virgin River have left 9 distinct layers in the rock, offering such visual splendor as to risk leaving its observer speechless for hours.

The climbing in Zion National Park is not for the beginner or even intermediate climber. There are no sport routes that I know of, and the vast majority of the crack climbing is located on wall climbs that demand experience with both committing multi-pitch climbs and aid (mostly clean).

The good news is that there are a few terrific single pitch routes off the Canyon floor, offering excellent settings and great sandstone rock.


The Cave Route (5.7(b)): First ascended by desert master and prolific first ascentionist, Jim Dunn on the base of Cerberus Gendarme, the Cave Route is not only a fabulous route, but also has the distinction of being shown in my all time favorite movie, which is of course,The Eiger Sanction. The route ascends 80 feet up a right facing corner to a bolted rappel anchor that sits at the opening to the cave. A second pitch (short, rating unknown, guessing: 5.very hard) leads to anchors that could be used to then TR the easy chimney climbing in the cave. There may be other ways to reach these anchors or TR the cave but I am unaware of them. It is in this cave that Clint Eastwood climbs on TR while being belayed by the great George Kennedy. The route begins with a wide crack where a BD #4 helps protect the start. It then continues up several small mantals offering outrageously gorgeous views out over the Virgin River and Zion Canyon, and then up a wide hands-fist crack finish. A top rope can be set by scrambling up the back side and into the cave. The approach is sandy, steep, potentially dangerous, and possibly destructive (adding to the erosion of the hillside). The bolts would be a difficult and scary reach to the right to set up the top rope, but anecdotally, I understand its commonly done.



Reach the base of the climb by parking just past the Cerberus Gendarme in a small pullout that features a shadded area under a gazeebo. (Or take the shuttle in high season to this location.) This pullout, and the Cerberus Gendarme base are pictured below.



Hike back along the road a short distance and take the visible and obvious climber's trail on the left up to the base of Cerberus Gendarme. The Cave Route is on the far left.



A beautiful looking 5.9 thin hands (looking) splitter sits several hundred feet to the right that starts behind a tree and heads leftward up a blocky crack to the thin hands splitter to bolted rap anchors. We didn't climb this, but it looks like a great line and well protected throughout for the experienced and equipped desert 5.9 leader. I believe it is called Cherry Crack. (On right side of above photo.)


Also, nearby are the Practice Cliffs (pictured above). Park at a small pullout on the right just past the Zion Lodge when driving in the direction of exiting the Park. Up to your left is a wall of short trad crack climbs that end at bolted anchors. Be aware however that some areas here are protected due to Native American artwork, and have been closed on and off in the past. The specific areas closed are well marked and roped off at the time of this writing, but could change. Respect the signs and make as little impact as possible should you choose to climb here! Also, make sure to check with the climbing ranger in the Visitors Center if this area is currently open. Head up the climbers trail to the base and head left along the cliff to locate the routes. Directly upon reaching the top of the climber's trail, you will be looking at a 5.8 route with 2 bolt anchor (ends to the right of the large boulder in the picture above). All the way on the far left is a 5.7 nice looking hands crack, but with smaller trees functioning as the belay. A walk-off is located off the far left side, and then down and back around to the cliff face. Be careful not to knock off any loose rock onto climbers below if making the walk off.

Bouldering is avaialble just past the Park's Southern entrance both to the left of the Ranger kiosk and along the road within a mile of the entrance. The problems are few but offer an interesting mix of both cracks and typical face problems.



Additionally, there is quite a bit of trad and sport climbing located not far from Zion's main town of Springdale in both St. George and Cedar City (both less than an hour away).



The picture above is of the author on The Cone in Cedar City, UT. The Cone hosts three sport routes that all end atop The Cone's summit pinnacle with bolted chain anchors. There is a 5.7, a 5.9 on the arete, and a 5.10a that includes a fun highstep/mantel over a bulge. 100 yards down the road in the direction of Cedar City from the Cone are two trad cracks, Quirky Crack (5.8) and Slim Jim's Crack (5.3), as well as the 5.8 sport route, The Knob (5.8+ PG) all of which are visible from the road. Past the Cone in the opposite direction some 50 yards you will come upon two dirt roads on the right. Take the second right and follow the dirt road to its terminus (keep going left until it dead-ends). A short hike from here will bring you to Pocket Rocks and nearby Sprocket Rocks, both great short sport climbing areas. Approaching these routes is best done by heading North on UT-17 (a right turn off I-9 leaving Zion near the small town of La Verkin). Follow UT-17 N for 20 minutes and take I-15 N towards Cedar City. Take exit 59 for Cedar City and follow 200N until it becomes UT-56. Follow UT-56 West out of town until you see trees and rocks on the right (10-15 minutes). The Cone will be visible from the road in this area.

St. George is also replete with cragging possibilities, including the unique family owned and operated Veyo Pool and Crawdad Canyon Rock Climbing Park. Open for climbing each year beginning April 1st, Crawdad Climbing hosts over 180 sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. It costs $8/day and you must sign a waiver upon arrival. There is also camping and a swimming pool available. Please see: Crawdad Climbing for more information.

Other:

Zion makes for a great place to do some climber-tourism and with a guidebook in hand let your eyes travel up some of Zion's more challenging and famous routes such as the Jeff Lowe masterpiece, Peter Croft first free ascent, and recent free solo ascent by Alex Honnold of the towering and sublime Moonlight Buttress.



Zion has some of the best hiking in the World. See the Hikes & Bikes tab here on BayAreaClimbing.com for a description of the famed Angel's Landing Hike, the Narrows and other hikes and adventures in Southern Utah.

Moab, Utah

Moab is located in Southeastern Utah on the border of Colorado and Utah and is a five minute drive from Arches National Park and a thirty minute drive from Canyonlands National Park. Also nearby are the famous hanging mud curtains of the Fisher Towers and the awe inspiring Castleton Tower. Moab is a rock climbing mecca offering visiting climbers everything from one pitch sport routes, to the terrors of climbing A4 on The Titan in the Fisher Towers, to the laser-cut splitter cracks of Indian Creek.

Favorite Climbs and Areas:



Wall Street: This is perhaps the most popular climbing area near Moab, and rightfully so. Dozens of trad and sport lines ranging from 5.4 to 5.13 cover the 300 foot walls of Wall Street (although most are single pitch affairs ending well shy of the top). Next to the wall is UT 279 (Potash Rd) and on the other side of the road, the Colorado River. Climbs are accessed from a number of pullouts, although there is never more than a few feet between the climbs and the road. Be very careful not to get hit by passing Jeeps or the Potash trucks that speed up and down the road carrying the nutrient rich fertilizer that gives the road its name.
Approach: Drive North on UT 191 out of Moab for approximately 5 miles. Turn left on UT 279 (Potash Road). Continue on UT 279 for approximately 5 miles and you will see the chalked up holds and cracks of Wall Street on your right.

At the far end of the crag there are petroglyphs left behind by Native Americans. Enjoy these images and please respectfully refrain from climbing on or around them.

The crag came be very busy on weekend days when the weather is nice. We suggest climbing either mid-week or early morning/late evening to avoid the crowds.

Favorite climbs: At the far end of the wall, near the petroglyphs are the Wall Street slabs (unofficial name.) Here you will find a dozen or so excellent climbs rated 5.4-5.9. We really enjoyed these climbs, found the sandstone slab climbing to be aesthetic and fun, the protection good on the more difficult or moderate routes, and delightfully run out on the easier climbs.



On the left of this wall is a 5.7 slab route with 9 bolts leading to a two bolt anchor. We found the climbing on this route to be both fun and well protected. To its right, leading up and right of the white stains is the 7 bolt route, She-La the Peeler (5.9). We found this route to be excellent. The crux is at the start moving past the first three bolts. From there, the angle kicks back and provides a nice slabbing experience. Two bolt anchor.

To the right of She-La Peeler is a run-out route that is three bolts to a two bolt anchor up an 80' slab. The climbing appears to be about 5.4, but I found it much more difficult with the crux coming at the bulge just past bolt 3. While not in our guidebook, we'd guess that the crux of the route is probably in the range of 5.7. To its right is a great route that climbs up a slab and past a roof. This climb is 7 or 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor and we'd highly recommend it. While here again we are not sure of the rating, we think 5.7(ish) is close to the mark.



Continuing past the roof there are several 5.4-5.8 sport climbs. Pick a line and just start climbing. While there are medium size run-outs on these routes, the average leader should enjoy (rather than fear) these sections. The climbing is decently secure feeling for slab and the routes are quite fun despite the easy grades.



Further to the right is the offwidth 5.7, Grama and Green Suede Shoes. There is a two bolt anchor both to the right and left of the top of this climb. It can be led on larger cams (up to #5) or done as a top rope from the anchors above and left that are reached after an easy sport climb up a 5.7(ish) slab. To the right of Grama and Green Suede Shoes is the 5 bolt sport climb, Brown Bananas, that ascends up through white and brown streaked sand stone. This nearly vertical climb offers small edges up a 50-60' face. The bolts are all to climbers left. Very enjoyable route and a favorite of ours. Highly recommended.



Pictured above is the classic 5.8 Trad route, 30 Seconds Over Potash. The route ascends a crack in a left facing corner. The crack ranges from thin fingers down low to full on hand jamming higher up. A full rack of cams with doubles of 1's and 2's probably helpful for most leaders. Face holds supplement the sometimes awkward liebacking found lower on the route. This is a classic and is highly recommended.

Ice Cream Parlor:



Another great area close to Moab for moderate single pitch cragging is the Ice Cream Parlor. Located off Kane Creek Road, Ice Cream Parlor features slab climbing on a low angle black varnished wall with ratings mostly 5.7-5.9. There are also several cracks that are great introductions to trad climbing.

Favorite Climbs:



At the far left of the wall is Corner Crack (5.6) that ends at a 2 bolt anchor. This climb is fun with deep hand jams. Takes doubles of BD Cams #1 and #2.

To the right of the Corner Crack is a 5.5 gully called, Brewed Awakenings. This can be lead on medium cams. To the left of the gully is Left Slab (5.7) which climbs up past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. To the right of Brewed Awakenings are Black Slab (5.7) which climbs past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and Black and Tan Slab (5.7+) which ascends past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Further down, there are three cracks: Crack 1 (5.8), Crack 2 (5.8+ R), and Crack 3 (5.8) all of which take small cams, TCUs, and stoppers and end at 2 bolt anchors.

Approach: Turn on Kane Creek Blvd from Main Street in downtown Moab. (Kane Creek Blvd begins at the McDonald's) and drive until you hit a Y junction. Keep left and follow Kane Springs Rd all the way to the base of the crag. The road becomes a dirt road after a while. From here take the dirt road (can easily be done in a regular sedan) until it switchbacks steeply down to the canyon floor, cross a small stream, and the climbing area will come in to view up and to the left. Park in a dirt lot to the left or in a pullout to the right. Hike up along the base of the wall for approximately 5 minutes past large boulders to reach the main climbing area.

Arches National Park:



Arches National Park, located just 5 miles from downtown Moab, is home to over 2,000 natural stone arches. It is arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States and features such recognizable landmarks as Delicate Arch and Double Arch.

Climbing is prohibited on the arches themselves and there are a number of other restrictions/closures within the park. Be sure to check the nps website prior to your visit to check for seasonal and other closures.

Favorite Climbs:

Owl Rock (5.8): Located off the Windows road approximately 9 miles from the park entrance, Owl Rock is a 100' spire offering a steep trad climb up cracks, jugs, and horns to a three bolt anchor on a ledge just shy of the summit. From the anchors, ascend a sandy 5.3 slab (unprotected, but belayed) to the true summit. Down climb back to the anchor and rappel off the climb. A single 60 meter rope will just barely get you down. Rack: A full set of cams and stoppers with doubles of BD #1 and #2. A #4 helps protect the crux higher on the route where the crack veers up and left. An awkward but fun lead, Owl Rock is a true Moab area classic!



Bullwinkle Tower, West Chimney (5.6): Located just 100 yards or so from the Owl, the Bullwinkle Tower offers climbers another 90' tower climb that ascends a 5.6 slab before entering a 5.5 chimney that protects with a BD Cam #4 or #5. A single 60 meter rope will suffice. The climb ends at a three bolt anchor. Be careful not to knock off loose rock near the summit.



Castle Valley Towers Area:

Heading North on UT 191 leaving Moab, take a right turn onto UT 128 to reach the Castle Valley. Here one will find Castleton Tower along with The Rectory and The Priest high a top a 1,000' talus cone after driving approximately 20 minutes. The famous Fisher Towers are just minutes further away and are also located off UT 128. Take a well marked right turn onto a dirt road for a short 2 mile drive to the Fisher Towers campground and parking area.

Castleton Tower: This classic desert tower climb was the first major ascent done in the Moab area. It was climbed first by Colorado legend Layton Kor and geologist and surveyor Huntley Ingalls in 1961. The tower itself is 400' tall and the most popular route is the first done: the self-named Kor-Ingalls Route (III 5.9) that includes difficult 5.9 off-width climbing. I have not climbed the route, but list it here anyway as something to aspire to. A picture of Castleton Tower is below.



Fisher Towers: One of the most bizarre rock formations on the planet, the Fisher Towers are essentially hanging mud curtains. The sandstone is massively eroded, leaving behind weird shapes that many refer to as gargoyles. The first major tower climb was again done by the team of Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls when the two made the first ascent of the tallest tower in the Fishers, The Titan, in 1962. The climb itself was commissioned by National Geographic magazine and the pictures and story brought a great deal of new interest to the Fisher Towers. Successive routes were put up by Harvey Carter, Ed Webster, Fred Beckey, and Eric Bjornstad, before the area came to the later attention of wild aid climber Jim Beyer. The routes in the Fisher Towers are typically full commitment big wall aid climbs and include manky protection, hanging belays, questionable rock, etc.



Dock Rock, Impish (5.5): One route accessible to climbers who come to see the Fisher Towers is Impish (5.5). This is a 100' route on the formation located just past the parking area. Essentially climb up cracks to a big ledge to a two bolt anchor. Continue around the back to the side facing the Fisher Towers and climb to the summit. Rappel off bolts on the summit back to the two bolt anchor off the ledge. Make another rappel from these to put you back on the ground. This 'route' is frequently soloed up and down by those climbing in the Fishers to gain the nice views of the Towers from Dock Rock's summit. Don't expect good, clean crack climbing or a nice easy trad line. This route is more of a protected scramble with a cool summnit.

Ancient Art: With its famous corkscrew summit and recent TV commercial fame (climbed in a Citigroup commercial by Alex Honnold and Katie Brown), Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney route (II 5.10+ or 5.8 A0) deserves a quick mention. A four pitch route that usually consists of french freeing up bolts in a chimney, the route ends at a horizontal platform known as The Sidewalk where climbers walk carefully across a very exposed ledge to The Diving Board, a feature that must be mounted before concluding the climb with a short ascent up the airy corkscrew summit. We have not climbed this route, but include its picture below in hopes of stoking the imagination of our readers. (Note: Guided climbs are available through various Moab outfitters of both Ancient Art and Castleton Tower, as well as other famous desert climbs. Be sure you are ready for the exposure and commitment of a route before expecting a guide to haul you up it.)



South of Moab:

Wilson Arch: Located 30 minutes drive South of Moab on UT 191, Wilson Arch is visible from the road, and one of the few arches that one can legally climb in the Moab area. Ascend the formations via 5.3 climbing that begins on the right side of the arch (when viewed from the road.) The arch can be done in 3 pitches up various short blocks of trad protected climbing or one long pitch with considerable rope drag. The feature itself is approximately 100 feet tall and culminates in a simul-rappel off the formations top. The view of two climbers simultaneously rappeling past the hole will be sure to attract motorists eager to take pictures of this cool and unique rappel. There are also bolts now that can be used to rappel off the formation if done solo or you prefer the more straightforward method of descent.



Indian Creek: Past Wilson Arch by several miles, Indian Creek, located approximately 1 hour South of Moab (use turnoff to Newspaper Rock which features hundreds of petroglyths), is home to some of the very best crack climbing on the planet. Laser cut cracks demanding excellent crack technique and trad racks that include many of the same size pieces are the norm here. The area is universally revered for its pure style and setting. No rests, footholds, or other 'cheats' are possible on the perfect, parallel sided splitter cracks of Indian Creek. Look to make friends upon your arrival (quite common, easy, and fun), throw all of your cams into a communal rack (common, just make sure to mark yours with tape or something!), and hit the perfect splitter cracks. This is a large area with hundreds of routes. Guidebooks are available in downtown Moab at Gear Heads and other outfitters.

Bouldering in Moab:

Big Bend Bouldering Area: Heading back towards downtown Moab on UT 128, you will pass Big Bend Bouldering Area (approximately 15 minutes from downtown.) Big Bend is the most popular (if not only) well developed bouldering area near Moab. Dozens of problems sit opposite the Colorado River here above generally soft flat sand landings. Use the large pullout on the left (if heading towards town.) The area is well marked. Guidebooks are available from Gear Heads climbing store in downtown Moab.



Food in Moab: There are many restaurants in downtown Moab including bars with typical American fare, Chinese restaurants, and Mexican food joints. We found the food to be decent across the board, but somewhat pricey as they cater mostly to tourists visiting the nearby national parks. There is a large and inexpensive grocery store located in town offering reasonable prices on trail mix, fresh produce, and the like, including a large and well stocked sala bar where one can pay by the pound.

Where to Stay: There are dozens of hotels and campgrounds in and around Moab. Make reservations well in advance on holiday weekends and during the peak seasons. There is a cool campground located next to the Wall Street crag on Potash Rd that would make for an excellent home base.

Moderate Yosemite Sport Climbing: Pat and Jack's Pinnacle

Pat and Jack's Pinnacle offers several well-protected sport routes rated 5.7 - 5.8 on well featured, knobby granite that is quite different from the typically glacial polished Yosemite granite found on any of the Park's hundreds of crack routes. Given the ground-up and traditional ethic of Yosemite, it is rare to find well bolted moderates. This makes Pat and Jack's a very popular area with the weekend warrior gym-climber types and so its best to arrive early on weekend mornings or plan to visit this area mid-week.

Approach: At the Hwy 120/140 junction, take Highway 140 south for several miles until you see Cascade Falls on your right. Just ahead, park in the paved parking lot on the left. Cross the road and locate a climbers trail (marked by a signpost with the image of a carabiner at least as recently as February 2012) and hike up for no more than 10 minutes to the base of the crag. The moderates are all the way at the right end of the wall, so skirt along the base until you reach basketball size knobs and closely spaced bolts.

Routes:

Kiddie Corner (5.10a): At the far right end of the crag is Kiddie Corner. This route ascends past 3 bolts up large featured terrain before angling back and heading up 5.7slab past 5 more bolts. The route then follows a traditionally protected crack in a corner up to a two bolt anchor. Two ropes are needed to rappel. The views of the Merced River off to the right and the sound of Cascade Falls add to the pleasure of this climb.

More Mental than Mantel (5.10b): Just left of a shallow groove/crack (20 feet left of Kiddie Corner) is this absolute gem. Pitch one climbs up well featured rock past 7bolts to a two bolt rappel anchor. Rap down from here on a single rope, or continue up the somewhat awkward mixed bolt/trad 5.10b second pitch. Rappel with two ropes.
Note: Pitch one is our favorite moderate at P&J's and we highly recommend it!



Makayla's Climb (5.8): Just left of MMTM, ascend well featured rock up past 7 bolts to a two bolt rappel anchor. While a great climb, be aware that this is much more run-out than either Kiddie Corner or More Mental than Mantel and is likely not a good choice for the new to 5.8 leader. A top rope can be set on P1 of Makayla's Climb by first leading MMTM and traversing down and left to the anchors for P1 of Makayla's.