Moab, Utah

Moab is located in Southeastern Utah on the border of Colorado and Utah and is a five minute drive from Arches National Park and a thirty minute drive from Canyonlands National Park. Also nearby are the famous hanging mud curtains of the Fisher Towers and the awe inspiring Castleton Tower. Moab is a rock climbing mecca offering visiting climbers everything from one pitch sport routes, to the terrors of climbing A4 on The Titan in the Fisher Towers, to the laser-cut splitter cracks of Indian Creek.

Favorite Climbs and Areas:



Wall Street: This is perhaps the most popular climbing area near Moab, and rightfully so. Dozens of trad and sport lines ranging from 5.4 to 5.13 cover the 300 foot walls of Wall Street (although most are single pitch affairs ending well shy of the top). Next to the wall is UT 279 (Potash Rd) and on the other side of the road, the Colorado River. Climbs are accessed from a number of pullouts, although there is never more than a few feet between the climbs and the road. Be very careful not to get hit by passing Jeeps or the Potash trucks that speed up and down the road carrying the nutrient rich fertilizer that gives the road its name.
Approach: Drive North on UT 191 out of Moab for approximately 5 miles. Turn left on UT 279 (Potash Road). Continue on UT 279 for approximately 5 miles and you will see the chalked up holds and cracks of Wall Street on your right.

At the far end of the crag there are petroglyphs left behind by Native Americans. Enjoy these images and please respectfully refrain from climbing on or around them.

The crag came be very busy on weekend days when the weather is nice. We suggest climbing either mid-week or early morning/late evening to avoid the crowds.

Favorite climbs: At the far end of the wall, near the petroglyphs are the Wall Street slabs (unofficial name.) Here you will find a dozen or so excellent climbs rated 5.4-5.9. We really enjoyed these climbs, found the sandstone slab climbing to be aesthetic and fun, the protection good on the more difficult or moderate routes, and delightfully run out on the easier climbs.



On the left of this wall is a 5.7 slab route with 9 bolts leading to a two bolt anchor. We found the climbing on this route to be both fun and well protected. To its right, leading up and right of the white stains is the 7 bolt route, She-La the Peeler (5.9). We found this route to be excellent. The crux is at the start moving past the first three bolts. From there, the angle kicks back and provides a nice slabbing experience. Two bolt anchor.

To the right of She-La Peeler is a run-out route that is three bolts to a two bolt anchor up an 80' slab. The climbing appears to be about 5.4, but I found it much more difficult with the crux coming at the bulge just past bolt 3. While not in our guidebook, we'd guess that the crux of the route is probably in the range of 5.7. To its right is a great route that climbs up a slab and past a roof. This climb is 7 or 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor and we'd highly recommend it. While here again we are not sure of the rating, we think 5.7(ish) is close to the mark.



Continuing past the roof there are several 5.4-5.8 sport climbs. Pick a line and just start climbing. While there are medium size run-outs on these routes, the average leader should enjoy (rather than fear) these sections. The climbing is decently secure feeling for slab and the routes are quite fun despite the easy grades.



Further to the right is the offwidth 5.7, Grama and Green Suede Shoes. There is a two bolt anchor both to the right and left of the top of this climb. It can be led on larger cams (up to #5) or done as a top rope from the anchors above and left that are reached after an easy sport climb up a 5.7(ish) slab. To the right of Grama and Green Suede Shoes is the 5 bolt sport climb, Brown Bananas, that ascends up through white and brown streaked sand stone. This nearly vertical climb offers small edges up a 50-60' face. The bolts are all to climbers left. Very enjoyable route and a favorite of ours. Highly recommended.



Pictured above is the classic 5.8 Trad route, 30 Seconds Over Potash. The route ascends a crack in a left facing corner. The crack ranges from thin fingers down low to full on hand jamming higher up. A full rack of cams with doubles of 1's and 2's probably helpful for most leaders. Face holds supplement the sometimes awkward liebacking found lower on the route. This is a classic and is highly recommended.

Ice Cream Parlor:



Another great area close to Moab for moderate single pitch cragging is the Ice Cream Parlor. Located off Kane Creek Road, Ice Cream Parlor features slab climbing on a low angle black varnished wall with ratings mostly 5.7-5.9. There are also several cracks that are great introductions to trad climbing.

Favorite Climbs:



At the far left of the wall is Corner Crack (5.6) that ends at a 2 bolt anchor. This climb is fun with deep hand jams. Takes doubles of BD Cams #1 and #2.

To the right of the Corner Crack is a 5.5 gully called, Brewed Awakenings. This can be lead on medium cams. To the left of the gully is Left Slab (5.7) which climbs up past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. To the right of Brewed Awakenings are Black Slab (5.7) which climbs past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and Black and Tan Slab (5.7+) which ascends past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Further down, there are three cracks: Crack 1 (5.8), Crack 2 (5.8+ R), and Crack 3 (5.8) all of which take small cams, TCUs, and stoppers and end at 2 bolt anchors.

Approach: Turn on Kane Creek Blvd from Main Street in downtown Moab. (Kane Creek Blvd begins at the McDonald's) and drive until you hit a Y junction. Keep left and follow Kane Springs Rd all the way to the base of the crag. The road becomes a dirt road after a while. From here take the dirt road (can easily be done in a regular sedan) until it switchbacks steeply down to the canyon floor, cross a small stream, and the climbing area will come in to view up and to the left. Park in a dirt lot to the left or in a pullout to the right. Hike up along the base of the wall for approximately 5 minutes past large boulders to reach the main climbing area.

Arches National Park:



Arches National Park, located just 5 miles from downtown Moab, is home to over 2,000 natural stone arches. It is arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States and features such recognizable landmarks as Delicate Arch and Double Arch.

Climbing is prohibited on the arches themselves and there are a number of other restrictions/closures within the park. Be sure to check the nps website prior to your visit to check for seasonal and other closures.

Favorite Climbs:

Owl Rock (5.8): Located off the Windows road approximately 9 miles from the park entrance, Owl Rock is a 100' spire offering a steep trad climb up cracks, jugs, and horns to a three bolt anchor on a ledge just shy of the summit. From the anchors, ascend a sandy 5.3 slab (unprotected, but belayed) to the true summit. Down climb back to the anchor and rappel off the climb. A single 60 meter rope will just barely get you down. Rack: A full set of cams and stoppers with doubles of BD #1 and #2. A #4 helps protect the crux higher on the route where the crack veers up and left. An awkward but fun lead, Owl Rock is a true Moab area classic!



Bullwinkle Tower, West Chimney (5.6): Located just 100 yards or so from the Owl, the Bullwinkle Tower offers climbers another 90' tower climb that ascends a 5.6 slab before entering a 5.5 chimney that protects with a BD Cam #4 or #5. A single 60 meter rope will suffice. The climb ends at a three bolt anchor. Be careful not to knock off loose rock near the summit.



Castle Valley Towers Area:

Heading North on UT 191 leaving Moab, take a right turn onto UT 128 to reach the Castle Valley. Here one will find Castleton Tower along with The Rectory and The Priest high a top a 1,000' talus cone after driving approximately 20 minutes. The famous Fisher Towers are just minutes further away and are also located off UT 128. Take a well marked right turn onto a dirt road for a short 2 mile drive to the Fisher Towers campground and parking area.

Castleton Tower: This classic desert tower climb was the first major ascent done in the Moab area. It was climbed first by Colorado legend Layton Kor and geologist and surveyor Huntley Ingalls in 1961. The tower itself is 400' tall and the most popular route is the first done: the self-named Kor-Ingalls Route (III 5.9) that includes difficult 5.9 off-width climbing. I have not climbed the route, but list it here anyway as something to aspire to. A picture of Castleton Tower is below.



Fisher Towers: One of the most bizarre rock formations on the planet, the Fisher Towers are essentially hanging mud curtains. The sandstone is massively eroded, leaving behind weird shapes that many refer to as gargoyles. The first major tower climb was again done by the team of Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls when the two made the first ascent of the tallest tower in the Fishers, The Titan, in 1962. The climb itself was commissioned by National Geographic magazine and the pictures and story brought a great deal of new interest to the Fisher Towers. Successive routes were put up by Harvey Carter, Ed Webster, Fred Beckey, and Eric Bjornstad, before the area came to the later attention of wild aid climber Jim Beyer. The routes in the Fisher Towers are typically full commitment big wall aid climbs and include manky protection, hanging belays, questionable rock, etc.



Dock Rock, Impish (5.5): One route accessible to climbers who come to see the Fisher Towers is Impish (5.5). This is a 100' route on the formation located just past the parking area. Essentially climb up cracks to a big ledge to a two bolt anchor. Continue around the back to the side facing the Fisher Towers and climb to the summit. Rappel off bolts on the summit back to the two bolt anchor off the ledge. Make another rappel from these to put you back on the ground. This 'route' is frequently soloed up and down by those climbing in the Fishers to gain the nice views of the Towers from Dock Rock's summit. Don't expect good, clean crack climbing or a nice easy trad line. This route is more of a protected scramble with a cool summnit.

Ancient Art: With its famous corkscrew summit and recent TV commercial fame (climbed in a Citigroup commercial by Alex Honnold and Katie Brown), Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney route (II 5.10+ or 5.8 A0) deserves a quick mention. A four pitch route that usually consists of french freeing up bolts in a chimney, the route ends at a horizontal platform known as The Sidewalk where climbers walk carefully across a very exposed ledge to The Diving Board, a feature that must be mounted before concluding the climb with a short ascent up the airy corkscrew summit. We have not climbed this route, but include its picture below in hopes of stoking the imagination of our readers. (Note: Guided climbs are available through various Moab outfitters of both Ancient Art and Castleton Tower, as well as other famous desert climbs. Be sure you are ready for the exposure and commitment of a route before expecting a guide to haul you up it.)



South of Moab:

Wilson Arch: Located 30 minutes drive South of Moab on UT 191, Wilson Arch is visible from the road, and one of the few arches that one can legally climb in the Moab area. Ascend the formations via 5.3 climbing that begins on the right side of the arch (when viewed from the road.) The arch can be done in 3 pitches up various short blocks of trad protected climbing or one long pitch with considerable rope drag. The feature itself is approximately 100 feet tall and culminates in a simul-rappel off the formations top. The view of two climbers simultaneously rappeling past the hole will be sure to attract motorists eager to take pictures of this cool and unique rappel. There are also bolts now that can be used to rappel off the formation if done solo or you prefer the more straightforward method of descent.



Indian Creek: Past Wilson Arch by several miles, Indian Creek, located approximately 1 hour South of Moab (use turnoff to Newspaper Rock which features hundreds of petroglyths), is home to some of the very best crack climbing on the planet. Laser cut cracks demanding excellent crack technique and trad racks that include many of the same size pieces are the norm here. The area is universally revered for its pure style and setting. No rests, footholds, or other 'cheats' are possible on the perfect, parallel sided splitter cracks of Indian Creek. Look to make friends upon your arrival (quite common, easy, and fun), throw all of your cams into a communal rack (common, just make sure to mark yours with tape or something!), and hit the perfect splitter cracks. This is a large area with hundreds of routes. Guidebooks are available in downtown Moab at Gear Heads and other outfitters.

Bouldering in Moab:

Big Bend Bouldering Area: Heading back towards downtown Moab on UT 128, you will pass Big Bend Bouldering Area (approximately 15 minutes from downtown.) Big Bend is the most popular (if not only) well developed bouldering area near Moab. Dozens of problems sit opposite the Colorado River here above generally soft flat sand landings. Use the large pullout on the left (if heading towards town.) The area is well marked. Guidebooks are available from Gear Heads climbing store in downtown Moab.



Food in Moab: There are many restaurants in downtown Moab including bars with typical American fare, Chinese restaurants, and Mexican food joints. We found the food to be decent across the board, but somewhat pricey as they cater mostly to tourists visiting the nearby national parks. There is a large and inexpensive grocery store located in town offering reasonable prices on trail mix, fresh produce, and the like, including a large and well stocked sala bar where one can pay by the pound.

Where to Stay: There are dozens of hotels and campgrounds in and around Moab. Make reservations well in advance on holiday weekends and during the peak seasons. There is a cool campground located next to the Wall Street crag on Potash Rd that would make for an excellent home base.