Yosemite National Park: Highway Star

Yosemite National Park: Highway Star (5.10a)

Highway Star (5.10a + harder variations) is a great 60 foot top rope climb located just past the junction of Hwy 120/140 in Yosemite Valley. A mixture of short thin crack liebacking, following by a hand traverse, and then perfect 5.10 hands, this is one fantastic top rope route!

Approach: When entering the Valley via Hwy 120, you will reach the Valley floor at the intersection of Hwy 120/140. Turn left into the Valley and park at the first pullout on the right hand side next to the Merced River (approximately 1 mile.) Cross the road (away from the Merced River) and follow a faint trail to the left and uphill for approximately 5 minutes to the base of the crag. It is noticeable and distinguishable through the trees as a very clean granite face.

The Climb: Ascend up the right or left side of the leaning flake up to the thin finger crack on the left. Layback the crack, mantel up into the traverse, head left and ascend the off-hands/fist crack to the top.

Set-up: To top rope this route, head up on the left hand side of the crag. Easy Class 3 to the top and use the trees to set up an anchor. Use long slings to both back up the main tree at the top using other subsidiary trees, and also to get your anchor out over the lip.

Note: There is a left variation that goes at 5.10b as well as a few boulder move problems at the base. If working the 5.10b crack variation to the left, first lower off and set a directional above the Texas shaped flake to avoid swinging into the large triangular flake at the base to climber's right.