South Lake Tahoe Area: Luther Spires

Luther Spires



Luther Spires

Located high on a ridge, Luther Spires is host to a series of spires and rock outcrops featuring mostly moderate sport climbing. The approach is a gruelling uphill hike that is best avoided on hot days or during peak sunlight hours. Fortunately, the reward for making the trek is a very sublime setting with literally world class views of the surrounding Christmas Valley. The area is actively seeing development and the bolts are in great condition. There is some loose rock and there are some grainy sections, but all in all, this area is becoming a great destination for moderate sport climbers. There are approximately 16 established routes here with many more likely to come.
Approach: Heading South away from South Lake Tahoe, take Hwy 89 for approximately 10 minutes until you see the sign for the Big Meadow Trailhead. Continue past this sign for approximately 1/2 mile and park in the pullout on the left. Walk down into a clearing and follow the dirt trail down and across a large tree that serves as a natural bridge over a small creek. Head left to continue on the dirt trail and follow switchbacks up to the top where the trail will intersect with the base of the popular slab route, Jane Spy (5.7).

For the easiest climbing, head right from Jane Spy and up a small bit of Class 3 to a small collection of 5.8 to 5.10a climbs. Note: no move on the scramble is harder than Class 3. If you find yourself making a 5.0+ move, then continue searching for the easier approach (especially if weighted down by gear, ropes, etc.) Up here on a small terrace, you will find a short 20' spire with bolted climbs on both the right and left aretes. The left is Cheap Commercial Steak Sauce, Two Fifty (5.10a) and the route on the right is Beer and a Hotdog, Two Bucks (5.8). Our party actually found the left side easier. Both climbs while being short feel sustained given the crimpy nature of both the hand and foot holds. Great views out over the Christmas Valley and a small sense of exposure add to the quality of these two short, well protected lines.



CCSSTF & BH,TB

Dog and Grigri, Two Bucks (5.9) is the climb located to the left side of this small terrace. The crux comes before the first bolt and from there the climbing gets a bit easier, but the quality never wanes. Definitely worth leading if comfortable at the grade.



DG,TB (5.9)