Training for Endurance

Training for Endurance

There is nothing better to improve your ability to climb, and specifically lead, longer routes than good old fashioned cardio - running, spinning, hitting the stairmaster, or rowing. But if you, like many climbers, just can't seem to get into these usually monotonous activities then don't despair, there are alternatives.

One way to build endurance is to target one session a week in the climbing gym as an endurance day. On this day, the goal should be mileage not difficulty. Which is to say, you should do as many routes as possible regardless of rating but without falling into the trap of creating bad habits by climbing so fast, or routes so easy, that you allow that carefully honed technique of yours to devolve into a flailing vertical sprint. Instead go one or two grades below your normal onsight max and climb as many of these as possible in good style. A good time to do this workout is after you've been throwing yourself at harder projects for a few days and are feeling frustrated at your inability to climb at your limit. Rather than be frustrated, take this time to work on your endurance.

On this day, find a climbing partner who is on the same page, and take turns roping up in an area where three climbs are available on the same top-rope all at a reasonable level of difficulty, and climb each route back-to-back without rest. Swap turns and continue on around the gym in this fashion. To increase the difficulty, try to downclimb each route with your belayer providing enough slack to allow this to be smooth, but not so much as to invite dangerous swings or falls.

Another great way to build endurance is to find an open area of the gym and work long traverses low to the ground paying careful attention not to climb under or through other climbers. If you must step off the wall, do so only briefly. Shake out, and continue where you left off, setting a goal to do one whole side of the gym for example. And remember, don't sacrifice your form or technique!

It also helps to practice finding creative resting opportunities while on climbs. This will allow you to feel more comfortable when outdoors on lead when you need to reduce the pumped feeling so that you can continue on safely. For example, when approaching a crux on a climb in the gym, look to see if you can't use a knee bar in a corner, or a good no hands balanced rest on two good feet holds. Next time you are feeling pumped in the gym, rather than just letting go and hanging on the rope, see if you can't alternate hands and shake out each one individually before continuing on. When it comes to endurance it pays to use your head as well as your heart and lungs.

Finally, an overall fitness program using light weights with a high number of repetitions will increase your body's ability to climb longer with less overall strain.

Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park

Lembert Dome

Located North of Yosemite Valley along Tioga Road (Rte 120) lies the incomparably beautiful Tuolumne Meadows. Through the meadow runs the Tuolumne River which flows down to the Hetch Hetchy reservoir. On either side of the river are dozens of beautiful and soaring domes offering incredible face and crack climbing. The ethic which dictated the placing of bolts on lead (often hand drilling from marginal stances) has rendered nearly every climb run-out and as such, not suitable for most beginning leaders. There are a number of really enjoyable options for top-roping and also some shorter trad leads that offer good protection on moderately rated climbs, as well as great mountaineering adventures such as the Matthes Ridge Crest. There is also world class hiking including the ever-popular trek up to the top of prominent Lembert Dome.

Tuolumne Meadows is located at approximately 8,600’ of elevation and as such receives a tremendous amount of snow, leaving the road closed and the Meadows inaccessible for all but a few months of the year (unless you have a strong heart, healthy lungs, and a good pair of cross-country skis!) The pass is typically open from June through late September, although the opening and closing dates for Tioga Road vary dramatically depending on the amount of snow fall during the winter.

Camping: The Tuolumne Meadows Campground contains 304 sites that each include a fire ring, picnic table, and bear box. There is a bathroom with potable water, but there are no showers. The cost is $20/night for single campsites (up to 6 people maximum) or $40/night for group campsites (13-30 people). Half of the campground is based on the reservation system. To make reservations call 877.444.6777 or visit the national parks website. The other half of the campsite is available on a first-come, first-served basis.

Other amenities: Tuolumne Meadows Ledge also has 69 tent cabins much like those found in Curry Village in the Valley. One difference however is that each cabin has its own wood burning stove which can add to the fun of sleeping at elevation. There is a restaurant at the Lodge that serves a delicious assortment of pasta and proteins. It is always a pleasure to dine here as the restaurant – making use of their limited space – seats guests together with other visitors at the same table. This has led to many fascinating and unique conversations with visitors from all over the world. For reservations, visit the park’s website or call 877.444.6777.

Favorite Adventures:



Lembert Dome: Most reasonably fit visitors to Tuolumne Meadows aspire to hike to the top of Lembert Dome which sits high over the Meadows at 9,450 feet. If just arriving from the Bay Area, many visitors will feel the altitude immediately upon beginning this hike. It is necessary to drink a lot of water to offset the effects of the altitude caused dehydration. Additionally, take your time and possibly save this for the second day of your visit (if staying overnight in Tuolumne) to allow yourself time to acclimate. The hike is approximately 2.8 miles round trip and gains approximately 800 feet. Approach this hike by parking at the base of Lembert Dome in a large designated parking area. From here, follow signs and trails as the path wraps around the backside of Lembert bringing you up to the low angle shoulder. From here it is a short hike to the base of a summit block that requires a bit of scrambling and is somewhat unnecessary for those just seeking the excellent views from the crest out over the Meadows. That said, this is a climbing website, and we advise hikers to carefully make their way to the very top! As an alternative, try ascending the 3rd Class South Face (facing the parking lot). It requires a bit of tricky route-finding to navigate up the dome in the safest and easiest fashion, but it is done frequently and is an interesting and unique challenge!

Pothole Dome

Pothole Dome: Pothole Dome is located just off Hwy 120 with an obvious pullout on the left hand side of the road only a mile or two past Tenaya Lake. Park here and ascend the steep flanks using friction and a few hand holds to scramble to the top of the Dome. This provides a reasonably safe, but very fun and different adventure. The scramble from the car to the top takes but 20 minutes or so and therefore is something that shouldn’t be missed when visiting Tuolumne! On the back left side of the dome if facing it from the parking area are two bolted anchors (shiny new ¾’’ Metolius Bolts with rap rings) to set up top ropes on the steeper slab face on this side. Pay special attention to the remarkable geological record left on Pothole Dome. Here one can see many glacial erratics (free standing boulders on the top of a dome) left behind by the glaciers that covered these domes. Also left behind are the potholes from which the dome takes its name (obviously!) The potholes are formed by rocks that were ground into the rock in depressions caused by water and then torqued around by the pressure of the moving glacier.

Puppy Dome: Located just west of the Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, Puppy Dome offers a few nice trad lines (most of which can be top roped via an easy walk-up) and some of the best bouldering in Tuolumne. Skirt around the base of the Dome to the West where you will see a great thin splitter crack (5.8ish) that goes for about 50 feet and can be top-roped from above off of trees or led on trad gear (a really good if not slightly stiff beginner’s trad lead.) Continue past this line to located the obvious boulder problems that sit adjacent to the river. Above and on the dome’s south face are a number of classic climbs including Do or Fly (5.11c). On Puppy Dome’s North Face is an excellent long and pumpy boulder traverse that goes at perhaps V1 and is an excellent climb.


Unnamed Splitter Crack

Tenaya Lake: Rest along the banks of Tenaya Lake in the Summer, take out a canoe or kayak on its crystal clear waters, go for a swim if you don’t mind the frigid temperatures, or if you’re lucky and visit at the end of the season while the pass is still open, go ice-skating!


Tenaya Lake with Ice - Jan 2012

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area

Located 15 miles off the Las Vegas strip is the U-shaped corridor of Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (or just 'Red Rocks' for short).

The climbing here features both well-protected sport climbs and multi-pitch trad routes up crimson and white sand stone.

Geology: Soaring up to 3,000', Red Rocks is the product of fractured faults and fossilized sand dunes, leaving both limestone and Aztec sandstone. Interspersed amongst the red sandstone are bands of white, creating a visual paradise, with the reddish color resulting from iron oxide (rust).


Climbing Information: Popular sport climbing is located at Calico Hills (pictured above) and Sandstone Quarry. For trad climbs, ahead to the Brass Wall and Necromancer Wall. For multi-pitch climbs head to Eagle Wall, Aeolian Wall, Mescalito, and Solar Slab Wall. Multi-day big wall aid climbs can be found on Rainbow Wall (pictured below.) The sport climbs at Calico Hills tend to be well protected. Additionally, many multi-pitch routes at Red Rocks include bolted belays for quick changeovers and secure anchors, thus making some of the easier multi-pitch routes ideal for beginning leaders.


For more information on specific routes or to purchase a guidebook, head to Desert Rock Sports just outside the Red Rocks Conservation Area at 8221 W Charleston Blvd, Tomsik Plaza, Las Vegas, NV 89117. The shop also rents bouldering pads which is great news for those visiting Red Rocks via flight into Las Vegas. The cost at last look was $15/day.

Directions: From the Las Vegas Strip, use I-15 S to exit 34 for I-215W toward Henderson. Take Exit 26 for Charleston Blvd (west). Turn right onto Scenic Loop Drive.

Favorite Climbs:

The Hamlet: Located off the First Pullout, The Hamlet offers easy to moderate sport climbing up glowing red sandstone. The rocks is peppered with black varnished sections offering many positive hand and footholds. The area is somewhat new, so watch for loose rock, and always wear a helmet!



Approach: Locate The Hamlet by parking at the First Pullout and hiking downhill on the obvious trail. Once at the large wash, turn left and hike uphill until you reach the top. The Hamlet will be across from you with a large incut face/left angling arch and patches of black varnish. Hike down and left back to where you can cross the wash and up to the base of the wall. (See beta photo.)

Climbs Left to Right on the wall are as follows:

The Play's the Thing (5.easy): 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rappel rings. This is a very low angle face that would make for an excellent beginner's lead. It's also a good place to practice cleaning and rappeling as the rappel bolts are located on a very nice and wide ledge. Note: The belayer can clip a low bolt at the start of the route to protect from tumbling down a short blocky area should the leader fall.

Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone (5.7): 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Excellent climbing up fun, positive holds. Angle up and left past several bolts to a blank section. Pull up over a bulge using high steps and head past two final bolts to the anchor. May be a touch easier than 5.7.



Sweets to the Sweet (5.7): 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This climb is a step-up in difficulty from 'Frailty.' That said, it is also a strictly fun moderate with two small crux sections mid-way up the climb. Our personal favorite route at The Hamlet.

When the Blood Burns (5.10a): This is a top rope only route.

Sea of Troubles (5.9): 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor. This is a nice route that starts in a chimney, goes up past a bulge, and then climbs up through easier terrain to the anchors.

Below and to the right are several top-rope routes ranging from 5.6-5.8. The bolts are found below and right of Sea of Troubles. I haven't climbed these Top Rope routes, but they look aesthetic and fun.

The Panty Wall:



To the right of The Hamlet is the black varnished Panty Wall. The Pany Wall offers well protected sport routes ranging from 5.6-5.12, with several classic 5.7 and 5.8 routes. The Panty Wall is more popular than The Hamlet and can be crowded depending on the time of day and season.



Note: The Scenic Loop Drive is 13 miles long and is one-way. Calico Hills (sport climbing) is located just after turning onto the loop road on the right. Do not drive too fast or miss a stop or you will be forced to take the entire loop to get back to the start. While only 13 miles, RVs and gawkers can make this a slog. Take your time and plan ahead so you don't miss out on some of Red Rocks' excellent climbing!