Mt. Tamalpais

View from Northern Formation

High above the San Francisco Bay, Mt. Tamalpais, at 2,574 feet, is the highest point in Marin County and stands sentinel-like at the mouth of the bay. From the parking area at the top, Mt. Tam offers some decent rock climbing with world class views. While the rock here is somewhat chossy, the setting makes it a worthwhile place to climb even if only once.

Geology: Serpentine (much like that found at Stinson and Mickey's Beach).

Directions: From San Francisco, take the Golden Gate Bridge North into Marin County. Use the exit for Stinson Beach/CA 1. Turn left on Shoreline to stay on CA-1N. Then turn right on Panoramic Hwy. Follow the signs to Mt. Tam and continue on to the summit parking lot.

Cost: Day pass parking at the summit is $7.

Approach: You will see several main rock formations from the loop hike at Mt. Tam's summit. It is easiest however to take the plank trail up to the lookout tower and approach the rock routes from above. (If it is your first time climbing at Mt. Tam, it helps to hike the loop once to view the formations from below, thus allowing easier navigation when coming from above to set up TR anchors.)

Routes range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.11b (for the famed Oberman roof crack) with most of the routes in the 5.7-5.8 range. Top ropes here require trad anchors and slinging chockstones. Bring long webbing and cams for most anchors. There are a few very rusty quarter inch buttonhead bolts from a different era atop several of the climbs. DO NOT USE THESE BOLTS! They are no better than coffin nails!

While not the best climbing, you can't really find better views while cragging in the Bay Area (except for Mickey's Beach perhaps!)


Olberman's Crack
Northern Formation