Located along CA-62, approximately halfway between the towns of Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms is a turnoff for Indian Cove Campground. While this campground is technically inside of Joshua Tree, there is no ranger station or day use fee. There are 101 regular size camp sites which cost $15/per night or $25/40 for the Group sites of which there are 13. Unlike other campgrounds in Joshua Tree, sites here may be reserved from October 1st through May 31st by calling 1-877-444-6777 up to six months in advance of the date you want to reserve. Reservations can also be made online at www.recreation.gov.
Indian Cove Campground is home to some of the best easy to moderate cragging in all of Joshua Tree National Park. There are 34 routes rated 5.5 and below, 24 5.6's, 36 5.7's, 46 5.8's, 28 5.9's, and 31 5.10a's all in a relatively small cluster surrounding the campground.
Finding routes here is usually as easy as locating the site number that marks approach up to the climb. Approaches here are typically denoted in feet or times that are generally less than 10 minutes.
Area Favorites:
The Short Wall: One of the most popular crags in Indian Cove Campground. Approach by driving into Indian Cove Campround, make a left at Billboard Buttress which is the road leading to Rattlesnake Canyon, and the Short Wall will be on your left where the two roads merge. There is day use parking available immediately in front of the wall (pictured below.)
The Short Wall offers approximately 30 routes ranging from 5.3-5.11c. Almost all can be top-roped off of gear anchors. The walk off for routes on the right side of the wall is a Class 2 slab straight down off the backside that will feel comfortable even for the average hiker.
Be aware though that anchors are built using cracks beneath boulders that rest atop of the Short Wall and are generally quite a ways back from the cliff's edge. Very long slings, cordelette, or a second thin line are necessary if you plan on top roping from the ground. It is likely easier to belay from above, although this will still require long runners to avoid damaging to your rope.
Favorites in this Area:
Toe Jam Express (5.3): The prominent hand and first crack located on the Right Side of the Short Wall and pictured above. This route takes mid to large size cams. This is a great beginner's trad lead and also an excellent introduction to jamming.
Donna T's Route (5.5): The furthest to the right route on the crag, Donna T's route offers a short section of thin hands crack climbing up to a wider section that is easily protected. The climb finishes with a squeeze between two boulders at the top. High fun value for such a short and easy climb. Like Toe Jam Express, Donna T's Route is an excellent candidate for a first trad lead.
Don't forget that the face climbs between the cracks can also be done off of top rope and are really fun. As this area is very popular, either come early in the morning or just before sundown for a fun, crowdless climbing experience!
N00b Rock: Located just past the Short Wall in the back of campsite 14, is N00b Rock. This rock features three climbs (from left to right): C*nt Crack (5.4), Hamms Down (5.7), and N00ber Goober (5.7).
C*nt Crack is a fun and short 5.4 trad crack that ascends out of a pod on the left side of the formation. The other two climbs are face climbs that are pretty steep for the grade. All three climbs share a two bolt rap anchor at the top center of the formation. It is easiest to first climb C*nt Crack and then TR the two face climbs. Please remember to ask permission to climb on this formation if anyone is staying in campsite 14 (as is customary everywhere in Joshua Tree.)
