Lake Tahoe: 90 Foot Wall

Tahoe: 90 Foot Wall

90 Foot Wall

Standing 90' tall and approximately 150 feet wide, The 90 Foot Wall is host to nearly 20 routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11b. All routes can be top roped off of bolted anchors, and there are a number of good and moderate trad leads on good but blocky cracks. There are no sport routes at this time.

Approach: Park at the Eagle Creek Canyon parking lot at the far end of Emerald Bay. if approaching from the South, the parking lot will be on your left. There is a day use fee for parking in the lot (which was $5 at the time of our last visit.) To avoid this fee, park along the road at the obvious pullouts as you approach the parking lot. If it is a busy weekend though, be prepared and have cash in case you need to use the lot. From the back of the parking lot, follow the obvious trail up a short hill for approximately 5 minutes. Here head right to the Vista trail which arrives at two benches that make for a great place to watch the sun set over Lake Tahoe and Emerlad Bay. From here the crag will be 100 yards or so dead ahead. Follow the obvious cairns and footprints to the base. To rig top rope anchors, walk the length of the base to its far end and head up and right here. A nice flat top and easy scramble mean that this is an area frequented by those new to climbing outdoors, and it can become quite busy.

Favorite Routes:

Holdless Horror (5.6): This is the thin hands to finger crack that ascends the nearly vertical wall center of left. The climbing is fantastic and it gives those new to thinner cracks a chance to work finger jam technique without having to fully weight their feet in thin toe jams as there are small footholds to the left and right of the crack. Note: Be careful when climbing this on TR as a small buttress to the climber's left could be dangerous if you fall off and swing within the first 15-20 feet. It's not dangerous enough to second guess climbing the route, but its a good thing to be aware of before starting up.



Holdless Horror (5.6)

Rentier (5.7): An adventurous 5.7, Rentier is a nice sustained trad lead with a boulder move off the ground and some interesting long reaches, varied crack sizes, corners, and some stemming. The route is not difficult, but its a full value lead (beware - it gets wide at the top! But the wide crack can be avoided with holds on the face on either side, just make sure you have some bigger pro!)

Strontium 90 (5.8): Strontium is the 5.8 hands to fist crack on the far left side of the wall. The crack starts thin and then works its way up to the 20 foot level or so before getting into a really nice, if not short, hands and fist crack. The climb then briefly tops out onto the top of the flake. You can cross over and finish climbing up to the anchor or lower off here to run laps on the route.



Strontium 90 (5.8)

Shuman the Human (5.6): This is the blocky-crack line on the far lest side of the wall. It is basically a jug hall up slightly reach blocks with a few crack moves mixed in. Our party agreed that it was a fun workout and neat little climb, and would be best climbed as either a warm up or for laps to finish the day with a bit of strength and endurance work.

Casual Observer (5.1). This is the chimney behind Strontium 90 and Shuman. It is top roped off the same bolts as for Strontium 90. One way to get the rope positioned appropriately into Casual Observer for a TR is to climb up Strontium 90 and then lower off into the chimney. The chimney climbs equally well facing in or out, but facing in seemed to offer the better feet. While easy, its a nice introduction to chimney climbing up Sierra granite. A skill that obviously comes in handy a great deal in Yosemite.

Casual Observer (5.1)

Other: Once finished climbing here, you might enjoy a sunset picnic at the benches off the Vista Trail, or take the trail down the waterfall to Emerald Bay. The trail can be picked up directly opposite the Eagle Creek Canyon parking lot. While the water in Tahoe always remains quite brisk, a late rinse in its alpine waters after a long day of climbing can be akin to the feeling of a Baptism.

Hiking in Zion National Park

Zion National Park offers world-class hiking and canyoneering. Perhaps its most famous hike (if you consider The Narrows a canyoneering adventure) is likely the hike to the summit of Angel's Landing.



Angels Landing: Comparable to the Cables Route on Half Dome, this hike, while much shorter than Half Dome, is not for the faint of heart. The hike is 5miles round trip with an elevation gain of 1,200 feet. The first two miles are gradual, smooth and paved.



The trail steepens breifly as it ascends Walter's Wiggles, a series of switchbacks carved into the mountain side by the impetuous first custodian of Zion National Park, Walter Reusch, who in 1924 set out to build a trail that would defy early Zion explorer Frederick Fisher's assessment that the summit of this ridge was such that "only an angel could land on it."



Once finished with the Wiggles, hikers arrive at Scout's Lookout, a beautiful perhaps 50 foot wide flat saddle with open air views out into Zion Canyon to the North. For many who attempt the Angel's Landing hike, this is their turnaround point. Already fabulous in its own right, the hike to Scout's Lookout is one every capable visitor to Zion should make.



From here, the exposure and possible danger increase dramatically as the trail leads hikers up along a steep narrow ridge line for approximately a half mile with 1,000+ foot drop-offs on both sides. Along the trail there are chains to assist hikers in their balance. The chains however would not keep one from falling off should a hiker lose their balance, composure, or grip of the chain. Several people have died on this trail in the past 10 years alone.



The trail reaches its terminus on the summit of Angel's Landing with stunning views down Zion Canyon to the South, the Organ, The Great White Throne, and Cerberus Gendarme.



Allow 5 hours on average and start early to avoid the crowds! Exercise extreme caution, use your own judgement about your abilities, and honestly self-assess your comfort with exposure before beginning the final section. There are plenty of hikes in the world. Not every trail is for everyone. Bring extra water and be advised that in early Spring and Winter the trail can be icy, and in our opinion, not attempted in such conditions under any circumstances. Carefully check the weather and keep an eye on the clouds. Do not hike this trail if a thunderstorm is forecast, possible, or appears to be forming or approaching.

Approach: Park at or shuttle to The Grotto parking area. Here, cross the Virgin River via the narrow bridge and turn right at the fork in the trail. This is the trail to the top of Angel's Landing.

Zion National Park

Located in Southwest Utah and just a three hour drive (or less) from Las Vegas, NV, Zion National Park encompasses some of the most beautiful natural scenery and rock in the country (if not world.) Zion Canyon, with its nearly 3,000 foot walls, its 15 mile length, its bisecting river (The Virgin) and relatively narrow width greatly resembles Yosemite in almost every way, except for the color of its rock (and perhaps due to its lack of distinctly recognizable waterfalls.) Beautiful reds, oranges, splashes of greens from the hanging gardens, magentas, and cream tones color the rocks with bands of geologic time distinct and visible to the naked eye. Nearly 150 million years of sendimentary accumulation, the rise of the Colorado Plateau, and cutting action of a seasonally swelling and receding Virgin River have left 9 distinct layers in the rock, offering such visual splendor as to risk leaving its observer speechless for hours.

The climbing in Zion National Park is not for the beginner or even intermediate climber. There are no sport routes that I know of, and the vast majority of the crack climbing is located on wall climbs that demand experience with both committing multi-pitch climbs and aid (mostly clean).

The good news is that there are a few terrific single pitch routes off the Canyon floor, offering excellent settings and great sandstone rock.


The Cave Route (5.7(b)): First ascended by desert master and prolific first ascentionist, Jim Dunn on the base of Cerberus Gendarme, the Cave Route is not only a fabulous route, but also has the distinction of being shown in my all time favorite movie, which is of course,The Eiger Sanction. The route ascends 80 feet up a right facing corner to a bolted rappel anchor that sits at the opening to the cave. A second pitch (short, rating unknown, guessing: 5.very hard) leads to anchors that could be used to then TR the easy chimney climbing in the cave. There may be other ways to reach these anchors or TR the cave but I am unaware of them. It is in this cave that Clint Eastwood climbs on TR while being belayed by the great George Kennedy. The route begins with a wide crack where a BD #4 helps protect the start. It then continues up several small mantals offering outrageously gorgeous views out over the Virgin River and Zion Canyon, and then up a wide hands-fist crack finish. A top rope can be set by scrambling up the back side and into the cave. The approach is sandy, steep, potentially dangerous, and possibly destructive (adding to the erosion of the hillside). The bolts would be a difficult and scary reach to the right to set up the top rope, but anecdotally, I understand its commonly done.



Reach the base of the climb by parking just past the Cerberus Gendarme in a small pullout that features a shadded area under a gazeebo. (Or take the shuttle in high season to this location.) This pullout, and the Cerberus Gendarme base are pictured below.



Hike back along the road a short distance and take the visible and obvious climber's trail on the left up to the base of Cerberus Gendarme. The Cave Route is on the far left.



A beautiful looking 5.9 thin hands (looking) splitter sits several hundred feet to the right that starts behind a tree and heads leftward up a blocky crack to the thin hands splitter to bolted rap anchors. We didn't climb this, but it looks like a great line and well protected throughout for the experienced and equipped desert 5.9 leader. I believe it is called Cherry Crack. (On right side of above photo.)


Also, nearby are the Practice Cliffs (pictured above). Park at a small pullout on the right just past the Zion Lodge when driving in the direction of exiting the Park. Up to your left is a wall of short trad crack climbs that end at bolted anchors. Be aware however that some areas here are protected due to Native American artwork, and have been closed on and off in the past. The specific areas closed are well marked and roped off at the time of this writing, but could change. Respect the signs and make as little impact as possible should you choose to climb here! Also, make sure to check with the climbing ranger in the Visitors Center if this area is currently open. Head up the climbers trail to the base and head left along the cliff to locate the routes. Directly upon reaching the top of the climber's trail, you will be looking at a 5.8 route with 2 bolt anchor (ends to the right of the large boulder in the picture above). All the way on the far left is a 5.7 nice looking hands crack, but with smaller trees functioning as the belay. A walk-off is located off the far left side, and then down and back around to the cliff face. Be careful not to knock off any loose rock onto climbers below if making the walk off.

Bouldering is avaialble just past the Park's Southern entrance both to the left of the Ranger kiosk and along the road within a mile of the entrance. The problems are few but offer an interesting mix of both cracks and typical face problems.



Additionally, there is quite a bit of trad and sport climbing located not far from Zion's main town of Springdale in both St. George and Cedar City (both less than an hour away).



The picture above is of the author on The Cone in Cedar City, UT. The Cone hosts three sport routes that all end atop The Cone's summit pinnacle with bolted chain anchors. There is a 5.7, a 5.9 on the arete, and a 5.10a that includes a fun highstep/mantel over a bulge. 100 yards down the road in the direction of Cedar City from the Cone are two trad cracks, Quirky Crack (5.8) and Slim Jim's Crack (5.3), as well as the 5.8 sport route, The Knob (5.8+ PG) all of which are visible from the road. Past the Cone in the opposite direction some 50 yards you will come upon two dirt roads on the right. Take the second right and follow the dirt road to its terminus (keep going left until it dead-ends). A short hike from here will bring you to Pocket Rocks and nearby Sprocket Rocks, both great short sport climbing areas. Approaching these routes is best done by heading North on UT-17 (a right turn off I-9 leaving Zion near the small town of La Verkin). Follow UT-17 N for 20 minutes and take I-15 N towards Cedar City. Take exit 59 for Cedar City and follow 200N until it becomes UT-56. Follow UT-56 West out of town until you see trees and rocks on the right (10-15 minutes). The Cone will be visible from the road in this area.

St. George is also replete with cragging possibilities, including the unique family owned and operated Veyo Pool and Crawdad Canyon Rock Climbing Park. Open for climbing each year beginning April 1st, Crawdad Climbing hosts over 180 sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13. It costs $8/day and you must sign a waiver upon arrival. There is also camping and a swimming pool available. Please see: Crawdad Climbing for more information.

Other:

Zion makes for a great place to do some climber-tourism and with a guidebook in hand let your eyes travel up some of Zion's more challenging and famous routes such as the Jeff Lowe masterpiece, Peter Croft first free ascent, and recent free solo ascent by Alex Honnold of the towering and sublime Moonlight Buttress.



Zion has some of the best hiking in the World. See the Hikes & Bikes tab here on BayAreaClimbing.com for a description of the famed Angel's Landing Hike, the Narrows and other hikes and adventures in Southern Utah.

Moab, Utah

Moab is located in Southeastern Utah on the border of Colorado and Utah and is a five minute drive from Arches National Park and a thirty minute drive from Canyonlands National Park. Also nearby are the famous hanging mud curtains of the Fisher Towers and the awe inspiring Castleton Tower. Moab is a rock climbing mecca offering visiting climbers everything from one pitch sport routes, to the terrors of climbing A4 on The Titan in the Fisher Towers, to the laser-cut splitter cracks of Indian Creek.

Favorite Climbs and Areas:



Wall Street: This is perhaps the most popular climbing area near Moab, and rightfully so. Dozens of trad and sport lines ranging from 5.4 to 5.13 cover the 300 foot walls of Wall Street (although most are single pitch affairs ending well shy of the top). Next to the wall is UT 279 (Potash Rd) and on the other side of the road, the Colorado River. Climbs are accessed from a number of pullouts, although there is never more than a few feet between the climbs and the road. Be very careful not to get hit by passing Jeeps or the Potash trucks that speed up and down the road carrying the nutrient rich fertilizer that gives the road its name.
Approach: Drive North on UT 191 out of Moab for approximately 5 miles. Turn left on UT 279 (Potash Road). Continue on UT 279 for approximately 5 miles and you will see the chalked up holds and cracks of Wall Street on your right.

At the far end of the crag there are petroglyphs left behind by Native Americans. Enjoy these images and please respectfully refrain from climbing on or around them.

The crag came be very busy on weekend days when the weather is nice. We suggest climbing either mid-week or early morning/late evening to avoid the crowds.

Favorite climbs: At the far end of the wall, near the petroglyphs are the Wall Street slabs (unofficial name.) Here you will find a dozen or so excellent climbs rated 5.4-5.9. We really enjoyed these climbs, found the sandstone slab climbing to be aesthetic and fun, the protection good on the more difficult or moderate routes, and delightfully run out on the easier climbs.



On the left of this wall is a 5.7 slab route with 9 bolts leading to a two bolt anchor. We found the climbing on this route to be both fun and well protected. To its right, leading up and right of the white stains is the 7 bolt route, She-La the Peeler (5.9). We found this route to be excellent. The crux is at the start moving past the first three bolts. From there, the angle kicks back and provides a nice slabbing experience. Two bolt anchor.

To the right of She-La Peeler is a run-out route that is three bolts to a two bolt anchor up an 80' slab. The climbing appears to be about 5.4, but I found it much more difficult with the crux coming at the bulge just past bolt 3. While not in our guidebook, we'd guess that the crux of the route is probably in the range of 5.7. To its right is a great route that climbs up a slab and past a roof. This climb is 7 or 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor and we'd highly recommend it. While here again we are not sure of the rating, we think 5.7(ish) is close to the mark.



Continuing past the roof there are several 5.4-5.8 sport climbs. Pick a line and just start climbing. While there are medium size run-outs on these routes, the average leader should enjoy (rather than fear) these sections. The climbing is decently secure feeling for slab and the routes are quite fun despite the easy grades.



Further to the right is the offwidth 5.7, Grama and Green Suede Shoes. There is a two bolt anchor both to the right and left of the top of this climb. It can be led on larger cams (up to #5) or done as a top rope from the anchors above and left that are reached after an easy sport climb up a 5.7(ish) slab. To the right of Grama and Green Suede Shoes is the 5 bolt sport climb, Brown Bananas, that ascends up through white and brown streaked sand stone. This nearly vertical climb offers small edges up a 50-60' face. The bolts are all to climbers left. Very enjoyable route and a favorite of ours. Highly recommended.



Pictured above is the classic 5.8 Trad route, 30 Seconds Over Potash. The route ascends a crack in a left facing corner. The crack ranges from thin fingers down low to full on hand jamming higher up. A full rack of cams with doubles of 1's and 2's probably helpful for most leaders. Face holds supplement the sometimes awkward liebacking found lower on the route. This is a classic and is highly recommended.

Ice Cream Parlor:



Another great area close to Moab for moderate single pitch cragging is the Ice Cream Parlor. Located off Kane Creek Road, Ice Cream Parlor features slab climbing on a low angle black varnished wall with ratings mostly 5.7-5.9. There are also several cracks that are great introductions to trad climbing.

Favorite Climbs:



At the far left of the wall is Corner Crack (5.6) that ends at a 2 bolt anchor. This climb is fun with deep hand jams. Takes doubles of BD Cams #1 and #2.

To the right of the Corner Crack is a 5.5 gully called, Brewed Awakenings. This can be lead on medium cams. To the left of the gully is Left Slab (5.7) which climbs up past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. To the right of Brewed Awakenings are Black Slab (5.7) which climbs past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and Black and Tan Slab (5.7+) which ascends past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Further down, there are three cracks: Crack 1 (5.8), Crack 2 (5.8+ R), and Crack 3 (5.8) all of which take small cams, TCUs, and stoppers and end at 2 bolt anchors.

Approach: Turn on Kane Creek Blvd from Main Street in downtown Moab. (Kane Creek Blvd begins at the McDonald's) and drive until you hit a Y junction. Keep left and follow Kane Springs Rd all the way to the base of the crag. The road becomes a dirt road after a while. From here take the dirt road (can easily be done in a regular sedan) until it switchbacks steeply down to the canyon floor, cross a small stream, and the climbing area will come in to view up and to the left. Park in a dirt lot to the left or in a pullout to the right. Hike up along the base of the wall for approximately 5 minutes past large boulders to reach the main climbing area.

Arches National Park:



Arches National Park, located just 5 miles from downtown Moab, is home to over 2,000 natural stone arches. It is arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States and features such recognizable landmarks as Delicate Arch and Double Arch.

Climbing is prohibited on the arches themselves and there are a number of other restrictions/closures within the park. Be sure to check the nps website prior to your visit to check for seasonal and other closures.

Favorite Climbs:

Owl Rock (5.8): Located off the Windows road approximately 9 miles from the park entrance, Owl Rock is a 100' spire offering a steep trad climb up cracks, jugs, and horns to a three bolt anchor on a ledge just shy of the summit. From the anchors, ascend a sandy 5.3 slab (unprotected, but belayed) to the true summit. Down climb back to the anchor and rappel off the climb. A single 60 meter rope will just barely get you down. Rack: A full set of cams and stoppers with doubles of BD #1 and #2. A #4 helps protect the crux higher on the route where the crack veers up and left. An awkward but fun lead, Owl Rock is a true Moab area classic!



Bullwinkle Tower, West Chimney (5.6): Located just 100 yards or so from the Owl, the Bullwinkle Tower offers climbers another 90' tower climb that ascends a 5.6 slab before entering a 5.5 chimney that protects with a BD Cam #4 or #5. A single 60 meter rope will suffice. The climb ends at a three bolt anchor. Be careful not to knock off loose rock near the summit.



Castle Valley Towers Area:

Heading North on UT 191 leaving Moab, take a right turn onto UT 128 to reach the Castle Valley. Here one will find Castleton Tower along with The Rectory and The Priest high a top a 1,000' talus cone after driving approximately 20 minutes. The famous Fisher Towers are just minutes further away and are also located off UT 128. Take a well marked right turn onto a dirt road for a short 2 mile drive to the Fisher Towers campground and parking area.

Castleton Tower: This classic desert tower climb was the first major ascent done in the Moab area. It was climbed first by Colorado legend Layton Kor and geologist and surveyor Huntley Ingalls in 1961. The tower itself is 400' tall and the most popular route is the first done: the self-named Kor-Ingalls Route (III 5.9) that includes difficult 5.9 off-width climbing. I have not climbed the route, but list it here anyway as something to aspire to. A picture of Castleton Tower is below.



Fisher Towers: One of the most bizarre rock formations on the planet, the Fisher Towers are essentially hanging mud curtains. The sandstone is massively eroded, leaving behind weird shapes that many refer to as gargoyles. The first major tower climb was again done by the team of Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls when the two made the first ascent of the tallest tower in the Fishers, The Titan, in 1962. The climb itself was commissioned by National Geographic magazine and the pictures and story brought a great deal of new interest to the Fisher Towers. Successive routes were put up by Harvey Carter, Ed Webster, Fred Beckey, and Eric Bjornstad, before the area came to the later attention of wild aid climber Jim Beyer. The routes in the Fisher Towers are typically full commitment big wall aid climbs and include manky protection, hanging belays, questionable rock, etc.



Dock Rock, Impish (5.5): One route accessible to climbers who come to see the Fisher Towers is Impish (5.5). This is a 100' route on the formation located just past the parking area. Essentially climb up cracks to a big ledge to a two bolt anchor. Continue around the back to the side facing the Fisher Towers and climb to the summit. Rappel off bolts on the summit back to the two bolt anchor off the ledge. Make another rappel from these to put you back on the ground. This 'route' is frequently soloed up and down by those climbing in the Fishers to gain the nice views of the Towers from Dock Rock's summit. Don't expect good, clean crack climbing or a nice easy trad line. This route is more of a protected scramble with a cool summnit.

Ancient Art: With its famous corkscrew summit and recent TV commercial fame (climbed in a Citigroup commercial by Alex Honnold and Katie Brown), Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney route (II 5.10+ or 5.8 A0) deserves a quick mention. A four pitch route that usually consists of french freeing up bolts in a chimney, the route ends at a horizontal platform known as The Sidewalk where climbers walk carefully across a very exposed ledge to The Diving Board, a feature that must be mounted before concluding the climb with a short ascent up the airy corkscrew summit. We have not climbed this route, but include its picture below in hopes of stoking the imagination of our readers. (Note: Guided climbs are available through various Moab outfitters of both Ancient Art and Castleton Tower, as well as other famous desert climbs. Be sure you are ready for the exposure and commitment of a route before expecting a guide to haul you up it.)



South of Moab:

Wilson Arch: Located 30 minutes drive South of Moab on UT 191, Wilson Arch is visible from the road, and one of the few arches that one can legally climb in the Moab area. Ascend the formations via 5.3 climbing that begins on the right side of the arch (when viewed from the road.) The arch can be done in 3 pitches up various short blocks of trad protected climbing or one long pitch with considerable rope drag. The feature itself is approximately 100 feet tall and culminates in a simul-rappel off the formations top. The view of two climbers simultaneously rappeling past the hole will be sure to attract motorists eager to take pictures of this cool and unique rappel. There are also bolts now that can be used to rappel off the formation if done solo or you prefer the more straightforward method of descent.



Indian Creek: Past Wilson Arch by several miles, Indian Creek, located approximately 1 hour South of Moab (use turnoff to Newspaper Rock which features hundreds of petroglyths), is home to some of the very best crack climbing on the planet. Laser cut cracks demanding excellent crack technique and trad racks that include many of the same size pieces are the norm here. The area is universally revered for its pure style and setting. No rests, footholds, or other 'cheats' are possible on the perfect, parallel sided splitter cracks of Indian Creek. Look to make friends upon your arrival (quite common, easy, and fun), throw all of your cams into a communal rack (common, just make sure to mark yours with tape or something!), and hit the perfect splitter cracks. This is a large area with hundreds of routes. Guidebooks are available in downtown Moab at Gear Heads and other outfitters.

Bouldering in Moab:

Big Bend Bouldering Area: Heading back towards downtown Moab on UT 128, you will pass Big Bend Bouldering Area (approximately 15 minutes from downtown.) Big Bend is the most popular (if not only) well developed bouldering area near Moab. Dozens of problems sit opposite the Colorado River here above generally soft flat sand landings. Use the large pullout on the left (if heading towards town.) The area is well marked. Guidebooks are available from Gear Heads climbing store in downtown Moab.



Food in Moab: There are many restaurants in downtown Moab including bars with typical American fare, Chinese restaurants, and Mexican food joints. We found the food to be decent across the board, but somewhat pricey as they cater mostly to tourists visiting the nearby national parks. There is a large and inexpensive grocery store located in town offering reasonable prices on trail mix, fresh produce, and the like, including a large and well stocked sala bar where one can pay by the pound.

Where to Stay: There are dozens of hotels and campgrounds in and around Moab. Make reservations well in advance on holiday weekends and during the peak seasons. There is a cool campground located next to the Wall Street crag on Potash Rd that would make for an excellent home base.

Moderate Yosemite Sport Climbing: Pat and Jack's Pinnacle

Pat and Jack's Pinnacle offers several well-protected sport routes rated 5.7 - 5.8 on well featured, knobby granite that is quite different from the typically glacial polished Yosemite granite found on any of the Park's hundreds of crack routes. Given the ground-up and traditional ethic of Yosemite, it is rare to find well bolted moderates. This makes Pat and Jack's a very popular area with the weekend warrior gym-climber types and so its best to arrive early on weekend mornings or plan to visit this area mid-week.

Approach: At the Hwy 120/140 junction, take Highway 140 south for several miles until you see Cascade Falls on your right. Just ahead, park in the paved parking lot on the left. Cross the road and locate a climbers trail (marked by a signpost with the image of a carabiner at least as recently as February 2012) and hike up for no more than 10 minutes to the base of the crag. The moderates are all the way at the right end of the wall, so skirt along the base until you reach basketball size knobs and closely spaced bolts.

Routes:

Kiddie Corner (5.10a): At the far right end of the crag is Kiddie Corner. This route ascends past 3 bolts up large featured terrain before angling back and heading up 5.7slab past 5 more bolts. The route then follows a traditionally protected crack in a corner up to a two bolt anchor. Two ropes are needed to rappel. The views of the Merced River off to the right and the sound of Cascade Falls add to the pleasure of this climb.

More Mental than Mantel (5.10b): Just left of a shallow groove/crack (20 feet left of Kiddie Corner) is this absolute gem. Pitch one climbs up well featured rock past 7bolts to a two bolt rappel anchor. Rap down from here on a single rope, or continue up the somewhat awkward mixed bolt/trad 5.10b second pitch. Rappel with two ropes.
Note: Pitch one is our favorite moderate at P&J's and we highly recommend it!



Makayla's Climb (5.8): Just left of MMTM, ascend well featured rock up past 7 bolts to a two bolt rappel anchor. While a great climb, be aware that this is much more run-out than either Kiddie Corner or More Mental than Mantel and is likely not a good choice for the new to 5.8 leader. A top rope can be set on P1 of Makayla's Climb by first leading MMTM and traversing down and left to the anchors for P1 of Makayla's.

Beginner's Yosemite Multipitch: Oak Tree to Bay Tree

Oak Tree-to-Bay Tree is an excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing, and given the low angle nature of the climbing and its 5.6 rating, the climb is suitable for beginning trad leaders who have some experience building trad anchors. Opportunities to place protection are abundant and a single rack of cams and stoppers with a few extra slings should be sufficient.

The climb is located at the Western end of Swan Slabs near Camp 4. The first pitch is the small chimney located just left of the Oak Tree Flake.

Pitch One ascends a small chimney for approximately 60 feet. Protection is somewhat limited, but a cam placement or two are available higher up near the crux of the pitch where the chimney narrows and forces larger-bodied climbers to come out of the chimney to make a face move or two. Otherwise the chimney feels very secure. Arrive at a large and comfortable platform and build an anchor in the vertical crack behind you using cams #1 -#3.

Pitch Two is where the real fun begins. Ascend blocks past the Bay Tree (which may be slung for protection) and climb to the summit ledge via a right leaning 5.6 finger crack (sweet!) on low angle terrain. Protection is abundant and the setting and views are excellent. Again arrive at a large and spacious ledge that features a single (and quite antiquated) bolt for protection. I was also able to get a BD Cam # 0.4 behind a flake (pictured above) to supplement the bolt.

To descend, walk straight back away from the climb across class 3 ledges (careful here!) and curve down to your left. Here you will arrive at the rap bolts above the Penthouse Cracks. Rappel on a single 60 meter rope or build an anchor, rappel, and use the rope to top rope the excellent Penthouse Cracks. After climbing the cracks, batman up the unclimbable slab to retrieve your gear and rap off the rappel rings.