Indian Creek Volunteer Day

From Jim Donini's post on SuperTopo.com, this one is a bit further afield for most of our readers, but as if you needed a reason to head to Indian Creek please see below.

"The weekend of October 13th/14th will be the time, Creek Pasture the place for the 4th Annual Indian Creek Volunteer Day.
BLM co-ordinator Bob Lever (a great friend to climbers) has lined up some tasty projects mostly in the Creek Pasture/ Superbowl campground areas.

Come help protect and restore these areas and further build the climber/ land manager relationship in Indian Creek!
On Saturday we work and on Sunday we play.
What you get:
Reserved camping Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights at Creek Pasture.
Free World famous Bison or Veggie Burger barbeque on Saturday night.
Wonderful tales (some even true) around a crackling oak fire.
Meet new clmbing friends.
Free T-shirts from the BLM
Crack climbing clinics on Sunday and a chance to climb with your new friends.
and most of all the great feeling from a job well done. At past events participants have always been amazed at what they have accomplished.

Please RSVP Jim Donini at (jimdonini43@gmail.com) with your bison/veggie preferance"

Oakdale Climbers' Festival 10/26-10/28

From Steve Grossman's Announcement on SuperTopo, the below event is something our readers won't want to miss...!!!

"Oakdale Climbers Festival 2012- Invitation and Schedule of Events

The City of Oakdale and I are pleased to invite you to participate in the inaugural Oakdale Climbers Festival taking place at the Oakdale Community Center Friday, October 26 through Sunday, October 28, 2012.

“Running Towards Commitment- The Salathé Experience” will be the theme for the first two days.

The event will kick off on Friday evening at 7:30pm with a discussion of the personal and climbing history of John Salathé lead by Steve Grossman.

Jerry Gallwas will tell the story of his Salathé piton collection and its connection to the first ascent of the Lost arrow via the Chimney and discuss his own early ascent.

Guest of Honor Al Steck will then comment on his own experiences with John on the north face of Sentinel Rock in July 1950. The Steck-Salathé route set the standard with respect to difficulty and style and was by far the most difficult rock climb of its era and yardstick for the next generation

Ken Yager will discuss John's later years including the transfer of his hardware through the Thune family to the Yosemite Climbing Association. Salathé hardware will be on display for the duration of the event.

Doug Robinson will then speak to the Salathé legacy of boldness and style to conclude the evening.

On Saturday at noon, Tom Frost and Royal Robbins will discuss the influence of Salathé on their approach to climbing El Capitan's southwest face named in John's honor, the Salathé Wall. Tom and Royal will recount their experiences on the first ascent with Chuck Pratt and a subsequent attempt to repeat the climb in a single push with TM Herbert. Fifty years ago Tom and Royal were the first party of two to climb El Cap in a very lightly-equipped second ascent of the Salathé Wall.

At 2 pm Al Steck and Dick Long will describe their third ascent with Steve Roper and show a film that they made en route.

At 4 pm Peter Haan will discuss his experience soloing the Salathé Wall as his first time up El Capitan in 1971.

At 6 pm Paul Piana will describe his experiences free climbing the Salathé Wall for the first time with Todd Skinner in 1988.

At 8 pm Hans Florine will discuss speed climbing the Salathé Wall and the evolution of style to finish out the evening.

On Sunday a symposium entitled “Forging Ahead- American Climbing Hardware in the 1940's, 50's and 60's” will be held from noon to 6 pm.

Come and enjoy hardware displays from all manufacturers active during this thirty year period. Participants will be available to answer questions about producing early hardware and hopefully be willing to speak briefly about their experiences making or selling gear fifty years ago.

Speakers start with Al Steck recalling the early days of the Ski Hut in Berkeley.

Jerry Gallwas reflecting on John Salathé as a craftsman and his own work with pitons.

Dick Long and his partner discussing the history of Longware.

Tom Frost and Dennis Hennek discussing the early days of Chouinard Equipment.

Don Lauria reflecting on West Ridge Sports and the history of Bill Feuerer and his Dolt Equipment.

Authors and artists will be selling and signing books and photographs such as Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen and Glen Denny with more to be listed soon.

Registration is free prior to the deadline at:

http://climb.oakdalecity.com/

In order to keep this event free we need financial support in the form of:

1) Donations from boosters in any amount.

2) Limited Artist and Author Exhibition Space for $150.

3) Vendor Exhibition Space for $300.

4) Sponsorship including logo presence on event poster and other promotional material for $500.

5) Festival Guide advertising space starting at $100.

At this point we really need some financial assistance to help properly do this event. Please contact me if you would like to help with a direct donation or need more details about participating in any way.

We are going to print on the event poster very soon so please contact me if you would like to be a sponsor so that we can get your logo in time to include it."

Yosemite Facelift 2012

The time has arrived again for this year's Yosemite Facelift.

Sponsored by the Yosemite Climbing Association and run by Ken Yeager, the Facelift is an annual volunteer event where climbers and others who love the Valley get together and spend the week removing trash and other debris from Yosemite.

There is a program each evening featuring famous climbers, climbing films, slideshows, etc. This year will also be again sponsored by New Belgium Brewery which in previous years has meant purchasing a commemorative pint glass at the beginning of the week for $20 (or so) and then having free beer for the remainder of the week.

Liter sticks and trash bags are handed out to volunteers and all time spent cleaning up is done on a self-directed ad hoc basis. It is not unusual to climb some shorter routes in the morning, spend mid-day picking up trash and hauling out concrete, brick, steel cable, etc and then spending the evening enjoying one of the programs. It is a fantastic time and we highly recommend you participating if time allows!

The evening program schedule is below.

Tuesday September 25, 2012 at East Auditorium - 7th Annual Reel Rock Film Tour. Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Wednesday September 26, 2012 at East Auditorium - Ben Lepesant - "Team Endor going to Hoth. A multinational climbing expedition to Baffin Island", Mike Schaefer presentation, Conrad Anker - "The Bread Line". Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Thursday September 27, 2012 at East Auditorium - Greg Stock - "The Geology of Yosemite Climbing", Sean Leary presentation, Mark Wellman - "No Limits". Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Friday September 28, 2012 at East Auditorium - Cheyne Lempe - "Viva Patagonia", James Lucas - "The Lifestyle Climber", and Alex Honnold - "Adventures". Doors open at 6:30 pm. and close at 10:30 pm.

Saturday September 29, 2012 On the grass at Yosemite Elementary School - Live music from 5:00 pm - 9:00 pm. Graham Smith-White will open then Little Brother will play.

Sunday September 30, 2012 at East Auditorium - Food, raffle and dancing to music by Little Brother. Doors open at 6:00 pm and event ends at midnight.

 

Hope to see you there!

1st Annual Meyers Climbing Festival (Lake Tahoe)

The 1st Annual Meyers Climbing Festival will be held in Meyers, CA (approx 4 miles South of Lake Tahoe) on September 17th, 2011.

Sign up begins at 9 am for the bouldering competition. There is a small fee to register and scoring is based on the honor system. The competition will take place on the 100s of boulders in the Meyers area and prizes will be awarded to winners and top finishers in each difficulty category.

There is also a free festival beginning at 2 pm next to Divided Sky (bar). There will be a BBQ and Live Music.

Afterwards will be a Dyno Comp at 5 pm.

This event should be a total blast. I've climbed many times in the Meyers area (Pie Shop, Echo Summit, etc) and I can say that while some of the granite is larger grained and hence a bit sharp, the problems are diverse and plentiful. So, get out there and enjoy a great day of bouldering/drinking/eating and support the Access Fund!!!!

Further details and information can be found at tahoebouldering.com.

Yosemite Facelift 2011, Sept 20-25th

Yosemite Facelift 2011, Sept 20-25th

One of my favorite events of the year is taking place Sept 20th - 25th in Yosemite National Park.

Each year, the Yosemite Climbing Association, run by Ken Yager, hosts a week long climber's clean up of the Valley. Each evening after volunteers set aside their orange vests and litter sticks, there are presentations from some of the world's best climbers covering their latest projects and featuring some of the newest and most original climbing films. The event is typically sponsored by New Belgium brewery and provides participants the opportunity to purchase a commemorative mug or glass for $20 that allows the buyer to fill their mug for free for the entire week.

The volunteer work allows the participant complete free reign to clean wherever they want, for how ever long they want, whenever they want. While this doesn't sound like fun, just wait until you see the growing pile of old hats, broken chunks of asphalt, water bottles, and other sundry items begin to pile up over the course of the week. It is nearly impossible to understate the satisfaction derived from knowing that all that waste that would alter and harm the Park has been removed and recycled. It's amazing what the able and willing bodies of climbers are able to accomplish in the span of a few short days!

Needless to say, the event also has a significant impact in the quality of relations between climbers and the Park Rangers. Its also wonderful to be able to wear the YCA vests (some emblazoned with an image of Lost Arrow Spire) and answer tourists questions re: climbing, climbers, cleaning up the Park, etc. Its a great boon for our community, a wonderful way to give back to the Park system, and a great way to honor and show respect for one of the world's most amazing natural places!

The evening events schedule is posted below for your reference. More information can be found on the Yosemite Climbing Association website at: yosemiteclimbing.org.

(Taken from YCA w/o permission...I hope Ken won't mind!)

"All evening programs are at the East Auditorium behind the Visitor Center. Doors open at 6:30pm with shows starting at 7:00 pm and ending at 10:00 pm unless otherwise noted.

Tuesday September 20th:

Josh Helling will show Dangerous Season a film about Yosemite Search and Rescue

Lisa Rands presentation

Wednesday September 21st:

Malcom Daly presentation - Tragedy and Triumph: Defying Gravity Though Post Traumatic Growth

Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto will present Vertical Sailing Greenland

Thursday September 22nd:

6th annual Reel Rock Film Tour

Friday September 23rd:

Jim Donini presentation - High and Wild

Mike Libecki presentation

Saturday September 24th 5:00pm - 9:00pm:

Volunteer recognition, raffle and outdoor music by Little Brother. Location to be announced

Sunday September 25th 6:00 pm - Midnight:

Raffle, food and dancing to Little Brother"