Mickey's Beach is home to the highest concentration of difficult, and also possibly the most beautiful and exotic, climbing in the near Bay Area. Located off Highway 1 North a mile or two south of Stinson Beach, Mickey's provides climbers challenging sport climbing on Serpentine rock right next to the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean.
The rock here has not only been known to break, but in the 1990s a major storm took an entire face and several popular routes and collapsed them into the ocean. The bolts are ring bolts (basically a U-shape of metal with the two prongs hammered into the rock). That said, the setting and the difficulty make Mickey's a magnet for fit sport climbers.
The Serpentine rock often feels slick even when dry, thus making many climbs here feel more difficult than their guidebook ratings (ie. leaders should not expect to climb at their sport leading limits at this rock until very familiar with the terrain.).
There are two different areas of Mickey's.
The first is the Egg boulder perched at the far end of the rocky beach adjacent to the Steep Ravine cabins camp site. The Egg offers routes ranging from 5.6 up to 5.12c. On the side of the rock facing the hillside, there are two short 30' sport climbs, each with two bolts leading to a one bolt anchor (beware!) The one on the right is 5.6, the left 5.9. Both climbs are very enjoyable and the 5.6 offers views past the arete at the stunning Pacific Ocean. As the belay spot for these climbs is on a small dirt mound connecting the Egg to the hillside, these two climbs can be done regardless of the tide. Please note that while both climbs are fun, the distance from the second bolt to the
single anchor bolt on both is perhaps far enough to allow for a ground fall. While I haven't personally tested this theory (thank goodness!) parties should assess this potential hazard for themselves. We suggest a collected and competent leader for both climbs. Another consideration is the fact that while the climbing is not difficult to the first bolt (which the climbs share), the potential to fall and stumble down a rocky gully to the climbers right and cause serious harm to oneself should also be considered before making the long trek down to the rock (although should one arrive unprepared to climb, they will still be treated to fabulous views in a serene and somewhat secluded setting.)
Some endorsement I know.)
Another gem is a 5.10c on the Northwest side of the Egg called Sign Language. This climb follows up tenuous and balancey movement up the arete nearest the ocean and provides a challenge for the belayer both in positioning on boulders at the base and avoiding the spray of crashing waves (beware ropes wet with salt water!)
Approach: Park at the pullout for the Steep Ravine campground located off Hwy 1 North. After making sure that any and all valuables are out of sight, begin your descent to the rock by hiking down the paved road to the campground. Continue past the campground and onto the rock beach where the Egg is located at the far end. The hike takes approx 10 minutes and can be a strenuous march back up with too much gear, so travel light!
The second, and main area, at Mickey's Beach is located just further North on Hwy 1 below a large dirt and gravel pullout. Take the obvious trail at the right hand side of the parking lot down the hillside to the beach. There you will approach a large rock connected to the hillside. The majority of the climbs are located on hiker's right. Warning: The beach at Mickey's is a popular nude beach and on nice days its almost a guarantee that several sunbathers will be laying out in the buff. If this offends you, then head elsewhere.
This main area features only one climb below 5.10 which is Peeper's Rock, a 5.9 so named because its summit provides the unscrupulous and successful ascentionist the opportunity to ogle the free spirited beach goers from above (although I've never found this to be too enjoyable a reward! Call me picky if you must.)
Peeper's Rock is a two bolt affair that is no more than 25 or so feet. The anchor consists of two Ring bolts that can be used to rappel. Having done this climb a number of times I feel comfortable stating that the climb continues to be one of the more difficult (or at least slippery and awkward) 5.9s I've ever done. The crux comes at the second bolt where numerous leaders admit to
'french-freeing' the route by hooking a finger or two through the second bolt while clipping (In case you were wondering, I must plead the fifth as to whether or not I've ever made this transgression...!). Further, the distance to the first bolt is approximately 15 feet of somewhat slippery climbing making it likely that the average 5.9 leader would perhaps think of stick clipping the first bolt.
Peeper's Rock
There is also a wide variety of bouldering available both along Mickey's Beach and nearby Stinson Beach. (Two miles north on Hwy 1 North, features a large parking lot at a lovely sand covered beach.)
Directions: From downtown San Francisco, take the Golden Gate Bridge north to Hwy 1 North towards Stinson Beach. Use the pullouts identified above to reach each area.
Season: Mickey's Beach and Stinson can provide good climbing any time of year depending on the wind speeds, the tides, and how wet it has been recently.
Other: Camping is available at the Steep Ravine Cabins campground by reservation only. These campsites and the cabins located here must be reserved usually months in advance but could make for a wonderful close to home weekend getaway.
Have fun, be safe, and climb entirely at your own risk. The information provided here was believed to be accurate at the time of this posting but conditions of bolts, the rocks, etc change with time and use. We assume no liability of any kind whatsoever. Enjoy!
