Joshua Tree National ParkJoshua Tree National Park is a virtual climber's paradise. 1,235 square miles in size, Joshua Tree, declared a National Park in 1994 as part of the California Desert Protection Act, is home to (by some estimates) greater than 5,000 established rock climbs.
The rock, a highly textured, large grained granite called monzonite, leaves fingers painfully raw, but provides some of the most excellent friction and feel of any rock I've ever climbed.
Driving into the Park's west entrance from the town of Joshua Tree off Twenty Nine Palms Highway, visitors are immediately confronted by the overwhelming beauty of the Mojave Desert that makes up the parks western half. The Mojave Desert is a 'high desert' or one that is at an elevation of greater than 3,000 ft. Here the desert is not only replete with the Park's namesake Joshua Tree's which rise as high as 15 meters, but also with thousands upon thousands of boulders and smallish rectangular formations littered with cracks strewn in heaps across the landscape. If you are visiting the park to climb, this should elicit in you a near panic level exuberance. If not, you should probably just turn back and attempt to hock your shoes for pocket change.
A few side notes on flora and fauna Joshua Trees, beautiful and otherworldly, are actually not trees at all but giant Yucca plants.
Yucca brevifolia have no growth rings and are therefore difficult to date, but it is estimated that they live for hundreds of years. The plant was given its name by Mormon settlers who crossed the Mojave Desert in the mid-19th century who saw in the tree the Biblical image of Joshua reaching with his hands in prayer towards the sky.
The high desert has more precipitation than the low Colorado Desert in the park's eastern half and offers visitors views abundant wildflowers in the spring as well as a bevy of various types of cactus and shrub.
Wildlife is also abundant in Joshua Tree, the park home to six species of snakes (be careful when scrambling on and over rock formations and keep an eye on the next step!), coyotes, tortoise, Desert Bighorn Sheep, tarantulas, and over 250 species of birds (including the Greater Roadrunner!)
GeologyThe rock formations in Joshua Tree formed 100 million years ago as a result of magma cooling beneath the surface. Over time, groundwater has eroded away at the desert leaving exposed thousands of formations of similar height covered in cracks.
Where to StayVisiting climbers are drawn to the famed
Hidden Valley Campground which is the first you will reach when entering the park's West entrance. Winter home to the legendary California climbers known as the Stonemasters, Hidden Valley Campground sits among and within walking distance of many of Joshua Tree's classics.
Hidden Valley Campground has 39 walk-in campsites that allow for up to 2 vehicles, 3 tents, and 6 people. There is a annual 30 day limit on camping in Joshua Tree, and a 14 day limit between the popular October - May time frame. It is often very difficult to get a spot if you arrive on a weekend in any other season but the usually too-hot-to-climb summer. For better luck, take a day off work and head down on Thursday instead. There is no running water, but several usually clean pit toilets. Each site has a picnic table, fire pit, and typically a nice, level area on which to pitch tents. If Hidden Valley Campground is full, try asking people already camping if you can share their spot. This is a not uncommon practice, and is actually a great way to meet new climbing partners. Just make sure to offer to buy a few beers for your hosts!
If you are the type of climber that prefers to stay in a hotel with running water, etc, you might check out the Joshua Tree Desert Inn in the town of Joshua Tree. This is the famous hotel where musician Gram Parsons (Flying Burrito Brothers, The Byrds, etc) died of an overdose in room #8. The room contains a stereo with a stack of Gram Parsons albums next to it, and a shrine out the door of the room where travelers and fans of the country/blues/folk/rock (according to a wikipedia article about the artist, this is called, "Cosmic American Music") musician can leave offerings. On my one stay there, several college aged girls twisted my arm into participating in a failed seance in the room where Gram passed. It was a tad unusual, but that's all part of the Joshua Tree experience!
Interestingly enough, Gram's body disappeared from LAX, when road manager Phil Kaufman and a friend stole the body in a borrowed hearse, and drove the remains to Cap Rock in Joshua Tree (near Hidden Valley Campground) and cremated Gram's body according to the artist's wishes. As there is no law against stealing a dead body given that it has no intrinsic value (according to law), the body snatchers were given a small fine and released.
The hotel is currently managed by a great dreadlocked man named Marsu who makes homemade Chai tea for all his guests. If you'd like to see the room and shrine but aren't staying at the hotel, and Marsu still works there, its almost a given that he'd love to give you the tour. Stop on in and ask nicely to see the memorial and he'll probably make you some tea while you wander the grounds.
Food and DrinkIn the town of Joshua Tree there is a giant Walmart where one can fill up on food, wood, and beverages cheaply. There is also a Pizza Place just outside of the Park called Sam's Pizza, where they serve not only serve Pizza, but also Indian food. They combine these two talents and make an 'interesting' curry sauce pizza that many climbers claim to crave at the end of a long day. I myself wasn't overly impressed by the curry pizza, but the regular pizza and other items are delicious. The same owners of Sam's Pizza also run a convenience store next door that sells firewood, alcohol, and snack foods.
Climbing GearGetting into off widths and need a few big bros? Run out of chalk or need tape for your shredded hands and fingers? Check out Nomad Ventures on the corner of Park Blvd and Hwy 62.
Showers Showers can be found at Coyote Corner across the street from Nomad Ventures. Tokens for the shower are $4 and are good for 7.5 minutes of water.
Climbing GuidesClimbing guides are available through Joshua Tree Guides. They offer many different rates and packages. For more information, visit their website at http://joshuatreeguides.com/.
Directions from the Bay Area: Take 580 E to CA 120 E, then merge onto CA-99 S. Take 99 S to CA-58 E/Blue Star Memorial Hwy to I-15 N toward Las Vegas briefly before turning onto CA-247 S/Barstow Rd. Turn left onto CA-62 E/Twentynine Palms Hwy to Park Blvd. The drive takes approximately 9 hours, but I guarantee its worth it!!!
Favorite RoutesHemingway ButtressFeltoneon Physics (5.8) 
This 100 foot tall trad line lies just off Park Boulevard approx 2 miles from Hidden Valley Campground. Park at the large pullout for Hemingway Buttress and hike towards the center of the wall. This climb starts approximately 40 feet to the right of the classic hand/fist crack, White Lightning (5.7). Featuring a wide crack/OW start in a right facing corner (that can be somewhat avoided by moving out onto the face of the buttress), the climb then ascends through excellent hand and finger cracks to a traverse below the summit, and a mantel up between two boulders. For a 100 foot line, this climb felt very adventurous given the heterogeneous nature of its features, its airy traverse (Note: leaders remember to protect your seconds by placing gear at the start and finish of the traverse!), and its mantel finish. Rappel off White Lightning with two ropes, or with a single cord approx 25 feet left of the climb (but note you will end up 7-10 feet off the ground and will need to downclimb easy face holds to complete the descent. I highly recommend this route!
Echo Rocks AreaEff Eight (5.8)
This 40' Trad line feels like quite the sandbag and is definitely a difficult lead given its unsual placement opportunities. The climb ascends a 40 foot hand crack that curves left off the desert floor. Located in the Echo Rocks Area, this climb receives near perfect sunlight during the day, has a two bolt summit anchor, and features a nice and easy walk-off. If planning to TR this climb, bring long slings to reach from the bolts out over the lip of the climb. While challenging and a bit of a physical struggle rather than an opportunity to practice smooth crack climbing skills, its position, its easy approach, and the bolts making for an ideal top rope for those unused to trad anchors, this climb warrants inclusion in the Bay Area Climbers' To Do List. Park in the Echo Cove Parking lot and hike towards the large Echo Rock. When you near the West End of Echo Rock, turn right and head out into the open expanse on a well worn trail. Eff Eight will be the prominent left slanting crack on a large boulder directly in front of you. To descend, use the easy walk off on climber's left.
Double Dip (5.6) 
Double Dip seen on left side with the flake. Stitcher Quits is the prominent black streak on the right. This is Echo Rock, West Face, as seen from the parking lot approach.Located on Echo Rock's North Face, this 110' sport climb ascends the right side of flake before cruising up the lower angled dome to a nice flat bench finish high off the desert floor. The climb is runout and the flake at its start can be protected with a single cam (#3 or #4) near its top. Ascend the outside of the flake (lieback) for the most straightforward experience. From there one move puts you to the second bolt (don't blow this clip (or fail to put in a cam behind the flake) or you will deck!) After the second bolt, the climbing is easy face climbing and offers quite a few positive holds to say its a slab. Its pure fun, although runout with only 5 bolts in 100' plus. A great alternative to the most popular (but usually crowded) Stitcher Quits (5.7) that ascends the prominent black dike to the right of Double Dip. There is a two bolt anchor. Descend the slabs to climber's left. Pretty classic climb for the grade and I highly recommend it!
Hidden Valley Campground
Hands Off (5.8)
Located inside Hidden Valley Campground, Hands Off (5.8), is a somewhat difficult 5.8that combines stemming, jamming, and some thrashing, to ascend this varied and fun route. Brings #4s for the anchor and smaller gear for the climb itself. To descend, walk off to climber's left down the backside on a somewhat steep slab. Curve back towards hidden Valley and downclimb to the base of the route. The downclimb is not too bad as far as Joshua Tree is concerned. This is a John Long FA and a very popular climb.
Beginner's Three (5.3)
Located on the backside of Intersection Rock, this low angle hand crack ascends a prominent buttress for 50'. Protection opportunities are available throughout, making this a good beginner's trad lead. It does however finish on a low angle slab that appears to have a crack in it when viewed from the ground, only to turn out to be a shallow streak that offers no protection. The angle is quite low here, but this should be known before leaving the ground to avoid the surprise a beginner would feel to suddenly be confronted with a lack of pro. The climb finishes on the shoulder of Intersection Rock below Overhang Bypass. Build an anchor in the horizontal crack that is positioned approx 10 feet from the lip of the climb. Downclimb off to climber's left (not too bad.)
Double Cross (5.8)An absolute Joshua Tree classic. This 5.7+-5.8 route offers some of the best hand jamming I've ever seen. It is unfortunately the site of quite a few accidents probably owing to its 25' of essentially unprotected (but easy) face climbing before the start of the crack and due to its fame as a classic Joshua Tree solo. After the face moves, its 70' of beautiful and rythmic crack climbing. Rap anchors are to climber's right. Takes a standard rack with cams up to 3" with doubles (or triples) of #1s and #2s.
Quail SpringsTrashcan Rock, located just off Park Boulevard approximately 3 miles from the Park's Western entrance, this rock sees a lot of traffic from both guide groups and tourists given that it features a large parking area, picnic tables, and 5 second approaches. While not a remote wilderness setting, it does offer a lot of climbing in a short period of time given the availability of easy-to-moderate trad routes and moderate sport climbs.
1. The Trough (5.0) - A great, but short (20') beginner's trad line
2. Karpwitz (5.6) - A nice fun, trad line with varied movements
3. B-3 (5.3) - Trad, anchor in horizontal crack above.
4. Profundity (5.10c) - Sport. Thoughtful, fun moves on an inobvious line.
5. B-2 (5.3) - Trad. The least enjoyable of the 5.3 and below trad lines on the face.
6. Tiptoe (5.7+) - Sport. A great line that moves up a feldspar dike. First bolt is way off the ground though and should be (dare I say it!) stick clipped if possible.
7. B-1 (5.1) - Trad. Fun face moves on patina flakes compliment a few nice hand jams.
Lost Horse AreaAtlantis Wall
To reach the Atlantis Wall, turn off Park Boulevard onto the dirt road through the Lost Horse Area. Park at the last dirt pullout before the 'Service Only Road' sign. Hike in on a well worn trail along rock walls until you can turn left up and into a Canyon. There on your left will be the very popular and fun Atlantis Wall.
On the Atlantis Wall are a number of great beginner trad climbs that can also be toproped by walking up the easy gully on the backside (Class 2?). Trad anchors and long slings are necessary to rig ropes, but a number of large boulders atop the formation offer strong and easy to use anchor points.
In the photo above, left-to-right, are:
Solar Technology (5.6), Men with Cow's Heads (5.5), Wet Pigeon (5.8), and Taurus
(5.7). We found everyone of these climbs to be fantastic. They make for great beginner's leads given the shorter nature of the wall (50') and due to the plentiful protection opportunities throughout each climb.
Please let us know what you think of these routes and let us know if you have favorites you'd like us to include! Many thanks, Bay Area Climbing Staff!
